Large case precision loading dies?

Status
Not open for further replies.

Paddy

member
Joined
Jan 5, 2014
Messages
906
Location
Pacific NW
I'm taking steps into more precision loading with a new rifle that's chambered 300 win mag. My thought is to get a lee collet die, a FL size die and a seater and that's all. Does this sound like it will cover the needs? Does the collet die take the place of a neck die?
 
Yes, the Lee collet die is a neck only sizing die. For a F/L die, I would buy a Redding full length "Body Die" when you need to F/L size your cases after 4 or so neck only sizings. For a seater die, I would buy a Forster Ultra Micrometer (first choice) or a Redding Competition seater (second choice).

I have this set up in 308 Win. and .223 Rem. It makes very accurate ammo. Works as well as using a bushing die set up (I use them too) without the expense of the bushings ($25.00 a pop).
 
Cool thx. I have a
Redding bushing die for 223 that I'm fond of, but isn't the point of the bushing die to accommodate different bullets and brass thicknesses? Are these big cases less susceptible to those variations? Thanks for your suggestions.
 
How insane do you want to get? There's also this wonderful thing called an M die. Once you have your neck at the proper ID for the bullet, the next hurdle is to get that bullet started nice and straight. The unique M die case mouth flare helps in this regard. If you are using competetion seating dies in search of better concentricity, you might want to also add this step.

The M die flare also makes the length of neck that provides tension exactly the same, even if you don't trim every time. As long as you don't crimp, after. (And you don't have to crimp away the minimal flare, unless you need a roll crimp for that particular load). That's pretty neat, if you think about it.
 
Last edited:
I have been down the neck size road with both on-press dies and Wilson hand dies, and to be honest, any more I am not sure I see a point given the inherit inconsistency. For production rifles I use a Hornady headspace gauge to set any decent FL die to .010 of shoulder bump. That is minimal sizing, but it will be the same amount of sizing from the first time after fire-forming until you toss the brass. Even in competition benchrest circles the trend is toward custom made FL dies and away from neck dies.

Seating dies are where you can really buy a difference in your finished ammo. For press dies, the chamber-type seaters (Forster, Redding Competetion, RCBS Competetion) are pretty darn good. No need for an M die with jacketed bullets, just feed the bullets in and the floating chamber aligns the bullet with the neck before it begins to seat. If you don't have one already, a concentricity gauge is a major help in setting up your dies.
 
Paddy, different mfg. 300 Win. mag. can have a different neck thickness, no different than any other cartridge. For my 308 Win. I have 5- S bushings for all of the different brass I have on hand. I have Winchester lots that I use a .335" bushing and older lots that I use a .331" bushing. The same with Hornady brass, heavier cases take a .335" bushing and the older, lighter lots take a .333" bushing.

I have $125.00 just in bushings, it can get expensive. I prefer a die that doesn't pull an expander button through the neck. Bushing dies can do that along with the Lee collet neck sizer. You can also have a F/L die honed to a specific neck thickness, but it is only good with that thickness of brass. There's lots of ways to make accurate ammo. Everyone has their opinions. I'm sure someone will show up and disagree about pulling expanders through the necks.

I do like the Lee collet die used with a F/L body die and I do like Redding S bushing dies for making accurate, long range ammo. It is possible to get low runout with a regular F/L die with an expander button. You have to check the runout numbers and what is causing the runout.
 
I've had super results with RCBS competition seater dies.

I've been using standard neck dies for a long time, and they do pretty well if I'm careful to lube the inside of the necks properly. I learned it's especially important to make sure to lube the base / under side of the neck at the shoulder junction. I haven't had any problems when I get that region lubed, other wise I pull shoulders up some.

GS
 
It is possible to get low runout with a regular F/L die with an expander button. You have to check the runout numbers and what is causing the runout.
I'm gonna guess that neck stretching, underexpanded case necks, and bullet not starting straight during seating are the main culprits.

You actually get rid of all these with just a properly sized M die. Also it helps if the sizing die doesn't undersize the necks too bad. I've had to sand out the neck portion of a rifle die that was too tight. There's no sense in making the expander work harder and potentially stretching the case neck out of symmetry.

The M die also removes any inconsistency in inside chamfer, because you don't need to do that. As mentioned, it also removes any negative effect of different length brass. It also completely protects the base of a jacketed bullet against scratches. A chamfer and a special seating die can't do that.

I am not a benchrest shooter. I just see the M die does a lot of things that a benchrest shooter should be interested in. A competition seating die only does one of those things.
 
Last edited:
I guess I'm on the outside of this expensive die club. I have produced .223 ammo with both Lee and RCBS, the normal dies not the specialty dies and that ammo has done .314" @100 yards repeatable. The rifle is nothing special either, it's a stock Howa 1500. I have has similar results with 30-06 ammo with groups of .335" to .346" using Lee dies, CCI primers, Win, Rem and Fed brass with 168gr match bullets from Hornady and Sierra. I see no reason to spend any more money on ammo made for hunting rifles since I'm already shooting sub 1/2MOA groups.
 
If your expander ball is the proper size for the cartridge you are loading, how can you have an undersized neck? Is there a high likelyhood you are overworking the brass with off the shelf dies?, absolutely, but an undersized neck?, not so much. Really, the only way out of employing an expander ball is using a bushing die, and that calls for neck turning or special segregation of cases, though even then you can run into uneven neck thickness that throws the system off.

If you are running standard brass in no-turn chambers, expanders balls simplify life, either in a neck or FL die. The question then is how does one attain concentrically, and this comes through design of the die and how it is setup in the press. The Forster design where the expander makes contact with the neck immediately as it is withdrawn is one way of ensuring concentric necks (this can also be done with other manufacturers dies by decapping in another die and drawing the expander further up the die. Carbide and tapered expanders minimize neck stretching, as does proper application of lubricant inside the case neck.

Provided one has figured out how to produce concentric cases closely fitted to the actual chamber, bullet seating is where major sources of error enter in terms of runout. How this is gotten around in benchrest is with a straight-line seater, typically of the Wilson variety. You place a sized case in a close fitting chamber with the bullet of choice aligned in a throat above the chamber. The seater then pushes the bullet straight into the case with minimal runout. This design has inspired a number of floating chamber type competition seaters for reloading press use. Same idea, align the bullet with the case neck before you ever begin to apply force.
 
If your expander ball is the proper size for the cartridge you are loading, how can you have an undersized neck? Is there a high likelyhood you are overworking the brass with off the shelf dies?, absolutely, but an undersized neck?, not so much.
All's I meant was that if the bullet is too big or the expander too small, during seating the case will be stretched beyond the elastic limit of the brass and deformation will occur. And this deformation is highly likely to be asymmetrical if the bullet is free to wobble, particularly as it just begins to seat. (This is where the competition seating die will help enormously). Not that expander balls cause this. I was just covering the bases. Whereas, if the neck is expanded enough for the bullet, it undergoes only elastic stretching, rather than deformation, provided the bullet starts out straight.

I am under the naive impression that as long as your neck is concentric, the neck is expanded enough for the bullet, and the bullet starts out straight (this is where the M die flare comes in), the bullet will seat itself darn near dead straight, automatically. This might be where I am going wrong.

As you noted, making case necks concentric can be challenging. The act of pulling the expander ball through the case neck can cause stretching. And this is exacerbated by a sizing die that makes the neck too small to begin with. This is yet another benefit of the M die. There are too many to even list!

Imagine, if you will, a chinese finger trap. Your finger represents the expander ball. The harder you pull, the more the trap tightens. This is what the neck of the case CAN do to the expander ball. It should never be that bad, but you never know. A combination of thick brass and a slightly tight sizing die, and this phenomenon goes off the charts. With one of my dies, it was harder for me to pull the expander ball out of the cases than it was to size, even if I applied lube directly to the inside of the necks! Much harder; like a different order of magnitude. I checked the ball; it was the right size and smooth as anything. This is a lot of force and it makes the case neck stretch and expand unevenly. And I don't care when the expanding starts, like that Forster die. Regardless, I imagine the neck can be stretched unevenly, making the brass of the neck not all the same thickness and level of work hardened! So even if it's concentric, it may not be inclined to seat a bullet as straight.

But take the same cases, sized with the same die, but with the expander ball removed. The necks are just as small. Push an M die expander of the exact same diameter into the neck, and the chinese fingertrap situation is reversed. Even with no lube, the same cases expand effortlessly. It's an amazing difference to witness. The fact that the expander is a solid rod that spans the entire neck shouldn't hurt, either. I imagine that the cases expanded with the M die could be more concentric, on average. But maybe not. I have an active imagination. :)

I believe that bushing dies and collet dies can make necks even more concentric and even less worked. And as you pointed out, earlier, the pinnacle would be a custom FL sizing die and neck turned brass! But I think running any of these superbly straight cases thru an M die, after, just to give them a little flare, might possibly help, too. For the reasons I stated in my last post. Even if you already use a competition seater die.

If I were going to get serious about precision, I would go with custom FL dies to near exactly fit my rifle's chamber. Neck turned brass. The FL die would just barely undersize the necks. Then I'd run a custom M die through. It would be very gradually tapered to the right size, being much longer than a regular M die, to help it remain concentric. It would just barely expand the necks which are already near perfect. This would hopefully remove some of the variation in neck tension that would arise from trying to size the necks, perfectly, with the sizing die. And, of course, it would put that little flare on the case mouth. I'd use a custom made competition seating die shaped exactly to my brass and bullet. And finally, I would have to find someone who can shoot way better than me to see if this makes any difference! :)
 
Last edited:
Is the M die available in different sizes? Not calibers rather but micro different for tuning the neck tension? What is making the M die better than an expander ball? I've read time and again that expander balls are rubbish and should not be used for precision loading. I still use them, but I understand why some don't like the pulling action they can induce. As far as concentricity wouldn't the floating expander ball designs help keep things concentric?
 
Lyman makes a "M" die, this die is used mostly for cast bullets and flares out the case mouth for the larger cast bullets. I don't know if GLOOB is referring to a Lyman "M" die or a "Mandrel" die. He can explain it.

There are "Mandrel" dies that use a mandrel that is used to size the I/D of the neck to a consistent size. A short article here: http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/reloading/expander-mandrels-and-neck-tension/

Sinclair has mandrel dies : http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...ir-generation-ii-expander-dies-prod38807.aspx

And mandrels: http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...air-expander-mandrel-oversized-prod33134.aspx

Sinclair sells Neck turning mandrels and expander mandrels. The expander mandrel is sized .001" larger than the neck turning mandrel. There is one size of expander in a given caliber. There are not different sized in a given caliber.

If you want to use mandrels, you should read up on their use to see if it suits your needs. Lots of info on the net about them.


I don't use mandrels, but some do and like them.
 
Paddy: I'm taking steps into more precision loading with a new rifle that's chambered 300 win mag.

I have 300 Win Mag dies, I have case forming dies, small base dies, Browning Automatic Rifles die sets from RCBS, I have case forming dies for 8mm Remington to 300 Win Mag cases. I do not have Lee dies for the 300 Win Mag.

Precision? I determine the length of the chamber from the shoulder of the chamber to the bolt face, when sizing cases for the 300 Win Mag, I ignore the shoulder head space on the belt thing, I am the fan of cutting down on all that case travel.

F. Guffey
 
Hmm, I was under the impression the belt headspacing was better than shoulder and that's what it's purpose was, and additional cost. Not so? Would it not make
Sense to FL size cases so they just barely allow the bolt to close? Then, attention is turned to keeping neck tension consistent and concentric?

I'm also a bit confused as to how fancy seater dies with mic knobs can make more precise ammo. I can see how they would be more convenient. I'm a fan of the sliding sleeve sweaters like hornady and I think Hollywood uses, however I don't see much mention of them in the real long range circles here.
 
I might have had a manic episode last night. I'm not a benchrest shooter or a precision reloader, at all. I am just jumping to conclusions, and I like M dies. Here's what Lyman has to say about their M dies:

http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/dies/RifleNeckExpDies.php

The die bodies come in a couple different lengths, and the expanding plug screws in/out. If you have the right length die body, you can buy the expander plug for some other calibers. If you have the know-how, you could modify plugs to custom dimensions.

This thread is a few years old. It offered some alternatives. I don't know if they're still available.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?104351-Where-do-I-get-Lyman-M-die-expander-plugs
 
Paddy, you asked about making precision ammo for your .300 Win. Mag. You being under the impression that sizing from the belt is better than the shoulder on a belted Magnum is 180º from common practice. Your brass is much better off sizing off of the shoulder. Here's a 9 reply post from this forum a year ago asking the same question: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=716334 In reply post numbers 2,3,5,6,7 and 9 ALL note it's best to use the SHOULDER of the case to F/L size off of NOT the Belt.

As far as your comment on the Mic seaters, Both Redding and Forster Mic seaters both have sleeves for more precise bullet seating. Yes, they are expensive. If you want to use the Hornady seater wit it's sleeve, feel free to use it. I use them with their Mic attachment. The Hornady seater is a good seater.

I really suggest you read up on some of the different techniques and equipment used in precision loading. I found a great book that taught me a lot is Glen Zediker's book "Handloading for Competition". Zediker has a quirky writing style, but he is easy to understand and he goes through the different techniques for making accurate ammo. It's well wort the price and it can help you in what direction you want to go and what equipment to buy.

I reload for about 15 different rifle calibers. I have a variety of Dies and tools. One of the most important tools for me is the Hornady headspace gauge for setting up my F/L dies to bump the shoulder back minimally to reduce brass over working the brass in the rifle. I go off of once fired cases from a particular rifle and bump the shoulders .001"-.002" for bolt guns and .003"-.005" for gas guns. The gauge is used with a set of calipers and measures the case base to shoulder length. The numbers are there, easy to read and indicating how much your F/L die is sizing.
 
Last edited:
If you size a belted case to head space off the shoulder each time it's resized / fired, you'll most definitely experience case head separations very prematurely. In most chambers, the shoulder on the brass on any bottle neck, including belted cases, will push out to the shoulder of the chamber when fired the first time. So if you continually bump the shoulders back, so as to head space off the belt again, you'll very quickly encounter head separations, very quickly, even as soon as within the 2nd or 3rd reload of that brass.

GS
 
If you set your F/L die properly to bump the shoulders back minimally,-.001"-.002" your brass will last a long time. If you EXCESSIVELY bump the shoulders back - .010" + you will get case head separations very quickly from overworking and stretching the brass. I did this years ago with a .338 Winchester Magnum before I knew any better.

For belted magnums, you will get better case life doing this than head spacing off of the belt. After the fist firing, the brass will conform to the rifle's chamber. After the first firing, measure the shoulder length and set the F/L to bump the shoulder - .001" / .002", it will work well.
 
Okay thanks. So, what's the belt for then?

Also, game stalker I'm a bit confused by your last post. You seem to be saying opposite things. I think you mean if you headspace off the belt you'll experience separations prematurely. Not the shoulder. ? I just want to be sure because I love all this good information and I want to understand the nuances of different practices.

Reading books is a good suggestion but books are expensive and I'm ADD
 
The belt is vestigial, the original belted magnum, the 375 H&H was designed with minimal shoulder, and a shallow, tapered one at that to ensure smooth feeding. The belt allowed sure headspace in a dangerous game round where reloading efforts were not a key concern. The H&H's .532 case head(.513 ahead of the belt) offered a sizable capacity gain compared to .473 of the 30/06 and similar so when US companies started pursuing magnums in the 50's, the H&H case was chosen because it was already a standard. In cartridges like the 7mm rem mag or 300 win mag, the belt serves no real purpose that is not better fulfilled by their steep shoulders.
 
^^^^^^This is the answer^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ The belt was designed for the 375 H&H and then the 300 H&H magnums since both cartridges have long, tapering shoulders. for belted Magnums with traditional shoulders, you headspace off of the Datum line on the shoulder.

If you're not willing to read reloading book materials, you are going to have a difficult time. Internet forums can help, but you have to realize, that internet reloading "Experts" are anonymous and there is a lot of misinformation that is posted without reference. I've seen a lot of ridiculous misinformation posted by these "Experts". You have to be careful.
 
Wow interesting. See, things like that tidbit are what I would imagine can't be found in a book, but I hear you and I will purchase the aforementioned text for perusal.

I'm surprised that they would retain the belt without a real purpose as it seems like ti would be more expensive to mfg than no belted.
 
I believe the manufacturers left the belt on for marketing purposes "BELTED MAGNUM" sells guns and ammo.

It was only in the last few years, non belted magnums were produced and marketed in the US. most of the new beltless magnums are based on the old 404 Jeffery brass case, a great African game cartridge.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.404_Jeffery
 
My bad paddy, I meant if you size them to head space of the belt every time, it will produce premature head separations. Good catch, and sorry about the confusion it created.

And yes, relying on the opinions of random reloaders on a forum, for information that can be found in the books, probably isn't the best approach to this hobby. As you can see by my above error regarding head spacing belted magnums, it's best to obtain important details from a published source.

GS
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top