chutestrate
Member
I am interested in trying to make knife sheaths. Could anyone recommend tools and types of leather I should look at for my project?
Leather tools and leather for knife sheaths
- Thread starter chutestrate
- Start date
- Status
TAKtical
Member
Take a look at tandyleather. They have tutorials and sell everything you will need. Knifekits also sells supplies and kits that could be helpful for beginners
Tandy is about the best place for supplies for the beginner.
For ordering online I prefer Zack White Leather for better pricing, but their page is not quite as well laid out as Tandy.
The problem you are up against is buying small pieces of veg tanned leather. Most places sell by the side. I buy direct from the tannery but your talking $250+ per side. Don't buy bellies even though the small size is tempting. Bellies are not very good for holsters and sheaths because the leather very elastic compared to other parts of the cow, that's why it is cut off the side. It also doesn't finish as well.
Zack White sometimes carries horsehide in small pieces, those are excellent if he has them.
Beyond that I'd pick up some heavy stitching needles, a fine point awl and some synthetic sinew. Retractable blade razor knives are great for cutting. Regular contact cement is an excellent glue to start with, Barge is better but more expensive.
If you have access to a drill press you can start by drilling your holes, makes life a lot easier than all of that hand punching, especially if going through 3 layers of 10 oz leather.
If you have a hard time finding small pieces of good leather let me know, I can send you plenty of knife sheath sized scraps if you cover the cost of a flat rate box.
Once you get started let me know if you have any questions, I'll help you all I can.
For ordering online I prefer Zack White Leather for better pricing, but their page is not quite as well laid out as Tandy.
The problem you are up against is buying small pieces of veg tanned leather. Most places sell by the side. I buy direct from the tannery but your talking $250+ per side. Don't buy bellies even though the small size is tempting. Bellies are not very good for holsters and sheaths because the leather very elastic compared to other parts of the cow, that's why it is cut off the side. It also doesn't finish as well.
Zack White sometimes carries horsehide in small pieces, those are excellent if he has them.
Beyond that I'd pick up some heavy stitching needles, a fine point awl and some synthetic sinew. Retractable blade razor knives are great for cutting. Regular contact cement is an excellent glue to start with, Barge is better but more expensive.
If you have access to a drill press you can start by drilling your holes, makes life a lot easier than all of that hand punching, especially if going through 3 layers of 10 oz leather.
If you have a hard time finding small pieces of good leather let me know, I can send you plenty of knife sheath sized scraps if you cover the cost of a flat rate box.
Once you get started let me know if you have any questions, I'll help you all I can.
oldandslow
Member
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2011
- Messages
- 220
cs, 9/24/12
Try the forums at www.leatherworker.net. They have a subforum devoted to knife and gun holsters and pointers on a lot of other leather work. It helped me when I first started making my holsters.
best wishes- oldandslow
Try the forums at www.leatherworker.net. They have a subforum devoted to knife and gun holsters and pointers on a lot of other leather work. It helped me when I first started making my holsters.
best wishes- oldandslow
For supplies you cant beat Springfield Leather. Very good prices and even better customer service. Also they do offer smaller pieces of leather. I recommend the Herman Oak single shoulders. As noted above Leatherworker.net is a great place to pick up information.
QFT!
You can always use a Dremel with the appropriate bit (3/32 IIRC). A Dremel or drill press will save your fingers when trying to push a needle through thick leather that just has an awl punch.
I'm no expert, but I have made a few holsters, mag carriers and a knife sheath. Tandy is where I get all of my supplies because its the only store in the city that I can walk into and pick out the leather I want.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=4430173&postcount=2
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=4432559&postcount=7
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=4841284&postcount=22
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=4844143&postcount=26
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=5016426&postcount=49
rc
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=4432559&postcount=7
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=4841284&postcount=22
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=4844143&postcount=26
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=5016426&postcount=49
rc
scrat
Member
RC here is a question i have. How do you make the loops on a gun belt. Say western style belt with .45 loops for holding ammo. How do they do that are they individually sewn in whats the technique
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
There are two different ways I am familiar with.
In one, a continuous strip of leather is sewn on one end, then threaded through slots on the belt, then sewn or looped back under itself to form a knot on the other end.
In the event they eventually get too loose, one end can be unstitched or untied and the whole strip re-tightened and re-stitched back to the belt.
By necessity, this method takes up a lot of real estate and is best used on gun belts.
For belt slides, you want the cartridges closer together to take up less room.
The method I use, and the same as El Paso Saddlery uses, is to sew each individual loop.
I wet form the leather over smaller then caliber wood dowel rod sections.
Then after it dries, attach it to the belt or slide with contact cement and sew it with a continuous length of thread.
Once completed, the loops are wet again and cartridges inserted to stretch each loop to tightly fit the rounds.
I made this one 12 years ago and it hasn't got loose yet.
rc
In one, a continuous strip of leather is sewn on one end, then threaded through slots on the belt, then sewn or looped back under itself to form a knot on the other end.
In the event they eventually get too loose, one end can be unstitched or untied and the whole strip re-tightened and re-stitched back to the belt.
By necessity, this method takes up a lot of real estate and is best used on gun belts.
For belt slides, you want the cartridges closer together to take up less room.
The method I use, and the same as El Paso Saddlery uses, is to sew each individual loop.
I wet form the leather over smaller then caliber wood dowel rod sections.
Then after it dries, attach it to the belt or slide with contact cement and sew it with a continuous length of thread.
Once completed, the loops are wet again and cartridges inserted to stretch each loop to tightly fit the rounds.
I made this one 12 years ago and it hasn't got loose yet.
rc
Last edited:
scrat
Member
Wow good info thanks for explaining
Tophernj
Member
Old thread, I know. But, it's pertinent.
I am getting to the final stages of making a knife for myself. I have a drill press and will somehow muddle my way thru sewing this thing together. However, what "weight" hide is best for a sheath? 8-9 or 10-11? My gut says 8-9 but it's been wrong more than a handful of times.
Thanks in advance.
C
I am getting to the final stages of making a knife for myself. I have a drill press and will somehow muddle my way thru sewing this thing together. However, what "weight" hide is best for a sheath? 8-9 or 10-11? My gut says 8-9 but it's been wrong more than a handful of times.
Thanks in advance.
C
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Depends on the size of the knife.
For most small 4" to medium 6" length belt knives, 8-9 oz. is too heavy.
You want it thick enough a sharp knife point won't punch through it if you fall on it.
But not so thick it weighs more and is thicker then the knife.
A big 12" Bowie or large fighting knife might be better served with 9-10, but even that is doubtful if you incorporate a welt between the two outside pieces of leather to protect the stitching as you always should anyway.
Just be sure you buy double-shoulder vegetable tanned tooling leather, NOT soft & stretchy belly leather, and all will be good.
These are 8-9 oz fighting / survival knife sheaths.
This is 4-5 oz for a 3.5" belt knife.
rc
For most small 4" to medium 6" length belt knives, 8-9 oz. is too heavy.
You want it thick enough a sharp knife point won't punch through it if you fall on it.
But not so thick it weighs more and is thicker then the knife.
A big 12" Bowie or large fighting knife might be better served with 9-10, but even that is doubtful if you incorporate a welt between the two outside pieces of leather to protect the stitching as you always should anyway.
Just be sure you buy double-shoulder vegetable tanned tooling leather, NOT soft & stretchy belly leather, and all will be good.
These are 8-9 oz fighting / survival knife sheaths.
This is 4-5 oz for a 3.5" belt knife.
rc
Tophernj
Member
RC, thanks for the fast reply.
Your sheaths are gorgeous. Wish I had the loot...
C
Your sheaths are gorgeous. Wish I had the loot...
C
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
And I wish I was still able to make them and sell them.
But old age catches up with all of us eventually.
I just can't do it anymore, other then an occasional sheath for some orphan blade without a sheath I come up with.
But you CAN afford it.
All you need to do is make a few, and refine your skills as you go along.
Don't get in a rush, and cut lots of cardboard patterns and try them, way before you cut the first piece of leather.
And think each step through, and get better with each one you make.
There is way enough info to get you started in the threads I linked in post #7.
rc
But old age catches up with all of us eventually.
I just can't do it anymore, other then an occasional sheath for some orphan blade without a sheath I come up with.
But you CAN afford it.
All you need to do is make a few, and refine your skills as you go along.
Don't get in a rush, and cut lots of cardboard patterns and try them, way before you cut the first piece of leather.
And think each step through, and get better with each one you make.
There is way enough info to get you started in the threads I linked in post #7.
rc
Tophernj
Member
Thank you for the encouragement. Much appreciated.
C
C
RC is giving you good advice.
Only things I would add is to make sure you use a center piece (welt) and never let the blade rest on a stitched seam. It's much more difficult for the blade to cut through the side profile of a piece of stitched leather than if it just has to push through a sandwich of leather right into the stitching.
Also, if you are drilling the holes you will have cleaner holes with a brad point bit, like these.
Good luck and be sure to share the final results!
Only things I would add is to make sure you use a center piece (welt) and never let the blade rest on a stitched seam. It's much more difficult for the blade to cut through the side profile of a piece of stitched leather than if it just has to push through a sandwich of leather right into the stitching.
Also, if you are drilling the holes you will have cleaner holes with a brad point bit, like these.
Good luck and be sure to share the final results!
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
I don't recommend using a drill to make your holes. You're actually removing material and the holes will never close up. Holes punched with a diamond shaped awl are not removing material and will close up nicely, producing a much cleaner looking, tighter and stronger stitch. It also does not make it difficult at all to stitch. I do not find it difficult at all to punch all my holes with an awl, if it is good and sharp. It's also helpful to poke your awl in a block of paraffin or beeswax every few holes. If you have difficulty punching holes by hand and have a drill press, it is no more difficult to chuck an awl blade in it and use it to punch your holes (power off). Tandy has decent awls, although they'll probably need sharpening. So far my favorite is a blade from Douglas but they're $27, just for the blade.
I agree on using a full welt.
I agree on using a full welt.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
While agree with you an awl punched stitching hole is more workmanlike, and possibly closes up better.
I switched to drilling & a countersunk thread line years ago to protect the thread from wear..
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/8069-00.aspx
After I had a diamond-awl break in half, go through my left thumbnail near the cuticle, and pin my thumb to the maple cutting board I was using for a work surface at the time.
After I got my left thumb un-nailed from the cutting board with a pair of pliers I had to carry the cutting board too go find??
I went and changed my peedy-pants and put on a bandage.
And right after I grew a new thumbnail 6 months later, and could do leather work again?
I started drilling holes with a 1/16" drill bit in a drill press.
If anyone has noticed my stitching holes not closing up in the last 25 years or so?
They never mentioned it.
What I have found is a drilled (basically burned hole) from the clogged tiny bit in wet leather is less likely to rip out a seam on thin leather.
As the edges of the holes are further apart then they would be if you do a 'tear it here' line of 45 or 90 degree diamond-shaped piercings with a diamond-shaped awl.
I greatly admire your most excellent work you have been posting lately.
And if a diamond-awl is the way you do it, then that's the way to do it for you!!
It's just not the way I do it myself anymore.
rc
I switched to drilling & a countersunk thread line years ago to protect the thread from wear..
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/8069-00.aspx
After I had a diamond-awl break in half, go through my left thumbnail near the cuticle, and pin my thumb to the maple cutting board I was using for a work surface at the time.
After I got my left thumb un-nailed from the cutting board with a pair of pliers I had to carry the cutting board too go find??
I went and changed my peedy-pants and put on a bandage.
And right after I grew a new thumbnail 6 months later, and could do leather work again?
I started drilling holes with a 1/16" drill bit in a drill press.
If anyone has noticed my stitching holes not closing up in the last 25 years or so?
They never mentioned it.
What I have found is a drilled (basically burned hole) from the clogged tiny bit in wet leather is less likely to rip out a seam on thin leather.
As the edges of the holes are further apart then they would be if you do a 'tear it here' line of 45 or 90 degree diamond-shaped piercings with a diamond-shaped awl.
I greatly admire your most excellent work you have been posting lately.
And if a diamond-awl is the way you do it, then that's the way to do it for you!!
It's just not the way I do it myself anymore.
rc
Last edited:
kayakersteve
Member
I see you are from SE PA - Are there any amish communities near you? I am in western NY and can go get any needed supplies for penmnies on the dollar. Just a thought>
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Wonder where the Amish are getting vegetable tanned tooling shoulders for 'pennies on the dollar'?
Leather tanning in the USA is a dying, almost dead industry because of EPA laws.
And most USA raw hides from the slaughter houses are being shipped to China, or other 3rd. world countries for tanning and resale in manufacturing.
So they can sell it back to us in the form of cheap leather shoes, boots, and belts at Wal-Mart, and as leather clothes at leathercult.com.
rc
Leather tanning in the USA is a dying, almost dead industry because of EPA laws.
And most USA raw hides from the slaughter houses are being shipped to China, or other 3rd. world countries for tanning and resale in manufacturing.
So they can sell it back to us in the form of cheap leather shoes, boots, and belts at Wal-Mart, and as leather clothes at leathercult.com.
rc
Deer_Freak
Member.
I would but a knife sheath kit so you know what is involved with making a sheath. Others have already posted that Tandy leather is a great place to get tools.
Most kids get a kit that has basic leather tools and several kits to make different things. I got a kit as a gift. I made the wallet complete with a fox squirrel carved and tooled in it. I lost the wallet in Katrina, 40 years later. By the time you make everything in the kit you will be semi skilled in leather crafting.
You can buy leather remnants on eBay for a good price. For $30 you can get enough leather to make several sheaths, a nice holster and have enough leather left to fix saddles and holes in your boots.
Most kids get a kit that has basic leather tools and several kits to make different things. I got a kit as a gift. I made the wallet complete with a fox squirrel carved and tooled in it. I lost the wallet in Katrina, 40 years later. By the time you make everything in the kit you will be semi skilled in leather crafting.
You can buy leather remnants on eBay for a good price. For $30 you can get enough leather to make several sheaths, a nice holster and have enough leather left to fix saddles and holes in your boots.
BINGO!
As with many small & cottage industries, Government over-regulation has just about killed them.
I buy all of my leather from Wickett & Craig, made in Pennsylvania, but you have to buy the whole sides.
I have heard both sides on the stitching debate and I choose not to get involved. I personally use a stitcher but when I first started I drilled. I know a lot of respectable leatherworkers that also use hollow punches, which is effectively the same as drilling.
Being surrounded on 3 sides by large Amish communities I can tell you they don't worry to much about the EPA, and the only time the EPA worries about them is when they try to sell to non-Amish. Although I have heard that is changing.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
I wasn't trying to start an argument or say that anyone's method is wrong. I'm far from an expert and still have a lot to learn. I just wanted to point out that there are other methods and schools of thought. 
I agree that a stitching groover is the only way to go. It is the other half of making a very clean stitch line and protecting the thread from wear. Especially inside the holster.
I agree that a stitching groover is the only way to go. It is the other half of making a very clean stitch line and protecting the thread from wear. Especially inside the holster.
Sorry Craig, that's not what I meant to imply you were doing. I've seen it happen plenty of times elsewhere though. I think everyone can still learn something no matter how long they have been doing this stuff.
FWIW, I agree with you on drilling but can't argue with rcmodel's POV either. I also think for newby's drilling is less intimidating for a number of reasons, after all that's how I started.
What makes handmade gear so cool is that everyone has their own style of doing things and it creates a unique product. I have some pretty unorthodox methods of doing things, but if I made everything like everyone else people would call me a copy cat
FWIW, I agree with you on drilling but can't argue with rcmodel's POV either. I also think for newby's drilling is less intimidating for a number of reasons, after all that's how I started.
What makes handmade gear so cool is that everyone has their own style of doing things and it creates a unique product. I have some pretty unorthodox methods of doing things, but if I made everything like everyone else people would call me a copy cat
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
That wasn't directed at anyone in particular. I just wanted all present (mostly rcmodel) to know that I wasn't trying to pick a fight on this issue. Just share another way to skin this cat.
I had a hell of a time finding information on this until I found out where to look. I would've been as deep into it as I am now ten years ago if information had been easier to find.
I had a hell of a time finding information on this until I found out where to look. I would've been as deep into it as I am now ten years ago if information had been easier to find.
That's what I was trying to say.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
