Leave alone or camo it

[dh1633pm]

If it were mine there would be no way a drop of paint or anything would come even close. That is one cool rifle.

 

[CraigC]

From all the comments I take it most of them are from people who don't predator hunt . No I will not be painting it . Plus I don't think most of you understand the the finish of this rifle . I own several blued firearms & nothing compares to this rifle . Even my Browning A bolt that's blued & wood .

I know exactly what you're talking about and as I said before, I think the issue is greatly overblown.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

I got a ghillie. But it's shiny

Wrap cloth around the barrel, then.

Painting that rifle is like having gender-affirming surgery -- once you do it, you have to live with it.

 

[Redman Khornet]

Best point yet

 

[trackskippy]

Wrap cloth around the barrel, then.

Painting that rifle is like having gender-affirming surgery -- once you do it, you have to live with it.

Yes, no, maybe. All depends on what you want out of it and if youre willing to do the work to remove it later, assuming you use the right paints, and assuming you want to remove it at all. Not all paints are created equal for the task either, nor are some gun finishes. The more porous the finish, the more difficult things can be to get off.

Ive removed paint from guns that Id painted 25 years before and hunted with a good bit over those years. The paint was completely removed, and the finish underneath was still basically pristine, but it did take a bit of work and effort to get it all off and back to what it was. Painting them was certainly a lot easier than removing the paint.

If you have a hard use gun that you want the same break up effect from as the cammies you choose to wear (they dont have to match either), and also offers some protection for the gun itself, then painting is a good way to go. Other methods can and do work well too, but may/can interfere with the operation of the gun, and may need more attention on your part to keep after them. It all depends on what you want out of it.

You also have to understand camouflaging things and how and why it works. Things like the hands, face, and gun, are the main things that "move" on a static person, and movement is more critical there, than pretty much everything else, as its the movement what draws attention. Its just worse, when the things that move the most, arent cammied up like everything else, and it just exacerbates the problem.

There are a lot of ways to accomplish things here, and paint isnt the only way, or necessarily the best, but it is a good option for things that get a lot of use and abuse.

 

[Ranger99]

I have already changed the value of it by converting it to a K Hornet! It shoot better after the conversion. But still decreased the value

^ ^ ^ ^ pretty much it in a nutshell ^ ^ ^

Once you diddle with something ( anything)
you don't ( realistically) enhance the
"value " of it, whether it be a gun or a
house or a boat or a car or anything you
might name. Just me- I never ever
consider " resale " value of something
when I obtain it. If I'm obtaining something,
I consider it something I'll have for life.
As far as painting guns, I don't do it for
any aesthetic beauty that other people
might find pleasing. I paint to kill any
glare and/or break up the outline of
the thing that will be the closest to the
animal/bird's eye. No animal or bird
can tell if you spent $250.00 or $2.50
on your gun cammo job, or what
your choice of hunting attire costs
for that matter
JMHO

 

[Redman Khornet]

Yes, no, maybe. All depends on what you want out of it and if youre willing to do the work to remove it later, assuming you use the right paints, and assuming you want to remove it at all. Not all paints are created equal for the task either, nor are some gun finishes. The more porous the finish, the more difficult things can be to get off.

Ive removed paint from guns that Id painted 25 years before and hunted with a good bit over those years. The paint was completely removed, and the finish underneath was still basically pristine, but it did take a bit of work and effort to get it all off and back to what it was. Painting them was certainly a lot easier than removing the paint.

If you have a hard use gun that you want the same break up effect from as the cammies you choose to wear (they dont have to match either), and also offers some protection for the gun itself, then painting is a good way to go. Other methods can and do work well too, but may/can interfere with the operation of the gun, and may need more attention on your part to keep after them. It all depends on what you want out of it.

You also have to understand camouflaging things and how and why it works. Things like the hands, face, and gun, are the main things that "move" on a static person, and movement is more critical there, than pretty much everything else, as its the movement what draws attention. Its just worse, when the things that move the most, arent cammied up like everything else, and it just exacerbates the problem.

There are a lot of ways to accomplish things here, and paint isnt the only way, or necessarily the best, but it is a good option for things that get a lot of use and abuse.

At least a few people understand ! I've been camo painting stuff since the late 70's early 80's started with compound bows .

 

[Redman Khornet]

^ ^ ^ ^ pretty much it in a nutshell ^ ^ ^

Once you diddle with something ( anything)
you don't ( realistically) enhance the
"value " of it, whether it be a gun or a
house or a boat or a car or anything you
might name. Just me- I never ever
consider " resale " value of something
when I obtain it. If I'm obtaining something,
I consider it something I'll have for life.
As far as painting guns, I don't do it for
any aesthetic beauty that other people
might find pleasing. I paint to kill any
glare and/or break up the outline of
the thing that will be the closest to the
animal/bird's eye. No animal or bird
can tell if you spent $250.00 or $2.50
on your gun cammo job, or what
your choice of hunting attire costs
for that matter
JMHO

See you get it ... I purchased the rifle as a lite carry rifle for running & gunning .it shot well but had the occasional flyer . So I had it reamed to eliminate the flyers knowing that if I ever sold it the value would be decreased. & All the people saying the 3 foot mirror flashing on a hill side won't bother game is just ridiculous. Thanks for the input . Some people even stated a rifle is a tool .I agree being a mechanic. & Yes I have all kinds flashy snap on tools in my box . But my dull impact sockets get used more than my shiny chrome stuff

 

[BigBlue 94]

If you go to a farm store , or feed store or vet supply store , there is something called vet wrap for leg bandages . its clingy and stretchy , but not super adhesive .It comes in various colors , I sometimes wrap a rifle with white for calling coyotes . comes right off without much mess .

Something to ponder on

You can get it at the sporting goods store too. Its called pre-wrap and is used under athletic tape when taping joints and such. I know it all to well from my HS football days. Pretty sure they make camo even. Its cheap and not super durable so remove it after a hunt or two. It will hold moisture too so remove if it gets wet. It will protect against light impact probably.

 

[codytrucker]

I think the wrap is the best of both worlds , protection and camo . get some marker pens and you can custom camo it all out .

 

[codytrucker]

204 ruger , CZ . Keeps the shiny down.

 

[MacAR]

From all the comments I take it most of them are from people who don't predator hunt . No I will not be painting it . Plus I don't think most of you understand the the finish of this rifle . I own several blued firearms & nothing compares to this rifle . Even my Browning A bolt that's blued & wood .

Man, I get it. I like to do a bit of predator hunting myself. My 'yote rifle is a Weatherby Vanguard Deluxe 243 with shiny blue and gloss walnut. A piece of 'tater sack wrapped around the scope and barrel does the trick for me. Has the " 2 foot mirror " cost me some dogs? Maybe so, but I've never noticed if it has. 100% of my guns are shiny gloss blue and wood, and I seem to kill plenty of critters with them. If I were in your shoes I'd carry the rifle as is and pop some 'yokes.

Mac

 

[Redman Khornet]

Man, I get it. I like to do a bit of predator hunting myself. My 'yote rifle is a Weatherby Vanguard Deluxe 243 with shiny blue and gloss walnut. A piece of 'tater sack wrapped around the scope and barrel does the trick for me. Has the " 2 foot mirror " cost me some dogs? Maybe so, but I've never noticed if it has. 100% of my guns are shiny gloss blue and wood, and I seem to kill plenty of critters with them. If I were in your shoes I'd carry the rifle as is and pop some 'yokes.

Mac

Thanks seems like a wrap of some sort maybe the ticket. It's literally a mirror finish . I would retire the rifle to a wall hanger if I can get a cat under its belt . Then only take it out when I feel like it. Seems like my Ruger is about to loose its 4K for awhile . Cause Missouri won't allow NV capable durning regular season even though it's a day scope too.

 

[Ignition Override]

Any gun I’ve ever seen with camo has lost much of its character. It was something which I pitied.

Also — Sgt. Saunders, Kirby, Little John, Cage, Lt Hanley never carried camo’d guns.
And their weapons looked as cool as they get.

 

[Redman Khornet]

Thanks for all the input . I have only laid hands on 2 guns that were brighter than this 1 .a old bottom ejection Remington pump riot shotgun & the other a M1 carbine both was chrome or nickel plated not sure what they used back then . I'm gonna give a camo weapon cover a try just cut out for the scope

 

[trackskippy]

This is my one spotting scope with a camo "ace bandage" type wrap on it. Its actually painted in another pattern underneath. Ive used the same stuff on a couple of guns I wasnt going to initially paint, but still ended up doing so.




The tape sticks to itself and no the gun, so you can take smaller pieces and "fill the gaps", to a point. Depending on the action and moving parts, you may still end up with gaps you cant get covered, but at least the bulk of the gun can be covered.

Dont forget a sunshade for the scope. The tape can work for that too.

 

[Redman Khornet]

This is my one spotting scope with a camo "ace bandage" type wrap on it. Its actually painted in another pattern underneath. Ive used the same stuff on a couple of guns I wasnt going to initially paint, but still ended up doing so.

View attachment 1118373
View attachment 1118374

The tape sticks to itself and no the gun, so you can take smaller pieces and "fill the gaps", to a point. Depending on the action and moving parts, you may still end up with gaps you cant get covered, but at least the bulk of the gun can be covered.

Dont forget a sunshade for the scope. The tape can work for that too.

Nice ! Yes I have a ARD that I swap between different rifle scopes . Now I am thinking about painting it just to give most of the people on here a anal aneurysm ... I know I asked for opinions ... Na I was digging in my old hunting clothes & came across a weapon cover that came with my ghillie suit think I am just gonna roll with that . But appreciate a real predator hunters advice. As far as the action it's a single shot falling block.so I will secure it at the scope & barrel & leave the back so I can flip it up to load

 

[herrwalther]

Finding a stock for a 1885 is almost impossible. I would love a set off a Winchester 1885 ( same gun by same Japanese Company just different branding) but the stocks are flat not polished like the Browning . Anybody wants to swap let me know

I thought so but only looked for a couple minutes for companies that made replacement stocks. The harder it is to replace something the less I would mess with it.

 

[MacAR]

Finding a stock for a 1885 is almost impossible. I would love a set off a Winchester 1885 ( same gun by same Japanese Company just different branding) but the stocks are flat not polished like the Browning . Anybody wants to swap let me know

You might consider stripping the shiny varnish and re-finishing with oil. Watco, Tung, or Linseed all make very nice stock finishes that aren't shiny. I'm rather fond of BLO (boiled linseed oil) myself, but you may prefer a different look. Just a thought, of course.

Mac

 

[Redman Khornet]

I thought so but only looked for a couple minutes for companies that made replacement stocks. The harder it is to replace something the less I would mess with it.

For a Browning low wall or for a high wall ? & How much were they ,?

 

[Redman Khornet]

You might consider stripping the shiny varnish and re-finishing with oil. Watco, Tung, or Linseed all make very nice stock finishes that aren't shiny. I'm rather fond of BLO (boiled linseed oil) myself, but you may prefer a different look. Just a thought, of course.

Mac

If I was going to go through all of that I would paint it first. It's a rifle they make rifles every day . Like I stated before . I purchased it to hunt with, I don't have safe queens & have no use for a safe queen . But thank for the info on refinishing a stock . I did think about it for a while & then decided it would be too much work & time & quite frankly not that fond of the Schnabel forearm either would prefer a flatter forearm to rest on my knee better. & Again I could make all this stuff .I am pretty good at wood working . But no desire

 

[Redman Khornet]

Pic from the field over cast day so just imagine on a sunny day

 

[BigBlue 94]

Pic from the field over cast day so just imagine on a sunny day View attachment 1118454

Beautiful! Sure is shiney!

I hunt whitetail with a 1979 Rem700 with a barrel almost that shiney, and the horrid high gloss poly on the stock. But i also hunt with the sun at my back when possible and always in low light and high prairie grass cover.

 

[Redman Khornet]

Beautiful! Sure is shiney!

I hunt whitetail with a 1979 Rem700 with a barrel almost that shiney, and the horrid high gloss poly on the stock. But i also hunt with the sun at my back when possible and always in low light and high prairie grass cover.

Some days I hunt for about 4 to 6 hours & the sun is high & playing the wind put ya in some no shade areas . Whitetails are a lot more forgiving than a coyote . Whitetail will stand around & stomp a foot at ya coyote is instant exit stage left or right . Young dogs will make a couple mistakes but few older dogs do

 

[BigBlue 94]

Young dogs will make a couple mistakes but few older dogs do

Old ones are old because they havent made many mistakes. They are smart and cautious. Those are the ones that live long enough to spread their wild oats.

Kinda ironic but ive seen a flashing CD on a string lure in a bobcat to a trap. Curiosity killed the cat...