Lee bullet molds

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woodweasel58

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I just finished casting a couple hundred .355 120gr. TC bullets. I weighed a few, 116/117 gr. I'm aware the weight difference is due to alloy. The bullets turned out very nice. I think I'm going to get a 124 or 125gr, mold. Lee makes 2 round nose models, 1 has a single lube groove the other has several. Does anyone have any experience with them, and which is recommended. have several 9mm pistols, and soon a couple of carbines. Also I think I read somewhere not to shoot cast bullets in a Glock, is thisthe case? Thanks for all the valuable info.
 
I just finished casting a couple hundred .355 120gr. TC bullets. I weighed a few, 116/117 gr.

The temperature of the lead plays into that also. If your melt is to hot it is expanded more than it would be at a lower temperature. When you fill your mold the lead is more expanded then it would be at a lower temp so when it does cool down it will weigh light by a few gr of weight.

You are also dealing with an $18.95 mold rather than a $100.00 plus high quality mold.
Lee makes 2 round nose models, 1 has a single lube groove the other has several.

The standard single groove mold would take the wax or Lanoline based lube in the groove only and requires an extra machine to put the ring of lube in the groove. The one with multiple smaller grooves is Lee's own design to be used with their Liquid Alox tumble lube. All you need to put it on is a Miracle Whip sized tub.
Is one better than the other? The answer here is in the eye of the beholder.

Tumble lube can be used without having to buy a Lubri-sizer. and is suppose to make less smoke and not lead your barrel if used properly. We all know barrel leading is usually caused by the bullet not fitting the barrel regardless of which lube you are using.

I'm using one of Lee's 38 cal 158 gr molds now and it works really well for what I paid for it.
 
I didn't know about the temp effexct, that's why ya need a thermometer huh. I suppose the optimal temp depends on the alloy mix? Theese bullets came out really nice, hardto believe the other makers are that much better, is it the steel vs aluminium. I liked the look of the multi grooved style. Greetings to N.C. Dad was stationed at Seymour Johnson when I was a kid.
 
I have quite a few Lee molds and they will last as long as iron molds. You have to take care of and not abuse either.
 
"Theese bullets came out really nice, hardto believe the other makers are that much better, is it the steel vs aluminium. "

The other mold maker's products are not "better", as such. It's easier and therefore less costly to make a high quality mold with aluminum blocks than iron but the bullets don't care. The only real difference is the iron molds ability to withstand physical abuse and there is no justification to a user doing that anyway! IF I was a high volume caster I suppose I'd prefer the long term durability of all iron molds but I'm not, so the Lees suit me fine. I have a small collection of iron molds too but I find it easier to produce better bullets, on average, with the aluminum molds so that's what I use most of the time.

If there is a difference in precision, it goes to alum molds; the mold cutters last longer without resharpening, which makes the cutters ("cherries") smaller, so the cavities can be economically cut very close to the proper diameter and bullets not need to be sized for excellant performance. The high cutter wear on iron demands the expensive new cherries start larger and cut bigger cavities for bigger bullets that MUST be sized down for proper fit. The sucessive cavities will get smaller as the cherries are resharpened until they get tossed out.

Different casting alloys and, to some degree, different molds cast better near a certain temperture. A bit of experimentation allows us to find that temp. A thermometer helps us stay there for the whole session and return to it later.

Most casters can afford to own an iron mold or two. Lee makes it possible for the less wealthy of us to own many more molds, and even some gang molds too! AND, there's no great danger of the blocks/cavities rusting; that can be nice.
 
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You might spend a little time reading here to pick up some great tid bits of knowledge, Articles on casting by Glen Fryxell

As for the bullets being single grooved or multi mini grooved as mentioned above they were designed with two different type lubes in mind. The single grooved ones can be pan lubed or dipped using standard type lubes, but then you have to cut the excess off the outsides using a cookie cutter type tool. Nothing extravagant as an old case can function as the cutter. It is simply shoved over the bullet while it is in the lube to cut it out so that it shaves the excess lube off the bullet leaving what is needed in the groove.

The Lee TL types with the multi grooves are as mentioned designed to be tumbled in a bowl or similar type container which in turn fills the smaller grooves with the Alox. Most of these type bullets are designed to be poured with a certain alloy which allows them to come out of the mold ready to shoot after lubing. Sizing is usually not necessary if the alloy you use if close to the design alloy. Also as mentioned the particular alloy as well as the temp your pouring at along with how hot your mold gets will all play into the final diameter of your bullets.

Most of this is touched upon in the link above in one article titled From Ingot to Target. There is also a great amount of other info in individual articles listed at the link in the upper right corner.

Hope this helps.
 
Couple of thoughts about casting lead for 9mm with lee molds based on my experience:

1) get a 6 cavity mold instead of a 2.
2) be sure to slug your bore, then measure the diameter of the bullets you are dropping. to make sure you are getting the appropriate bullet fit. It may be designed to drop .355 but actually dropping .356 or .357. Or even .354. I say this because I fought a long time with Lee's 6 cavity tumble lube truncated cone mold, trying to make my bullets shoot well, only to finally figure out that my gun actually wanted a larger diameter bullet. (bore slugged .355-.356, my mold was dropping .356-.357) I finally went with my Lee 357 125grn RNFP mold that drops .360, size them down to .358 and my leading and accuracy problems mostly went away.
3) you can tumble lube any kind of bullet, 1 or 2 large grooves work just as well as the 6 or 7 small ones.
4) In my limited experience, the small groove ones drop a little closer to listed size, which is often undersized for my purposes. That does mean you can shoot them as cast, without sizing, but I have had some accuracy isses in 9mm with them. They have worked just fine in 44spl and 45acp.
5) I can make a better bullet with Lee's aluminum molds than the other guys iron molds.
 
In answering your initial question can/should you shoot cast bullets in your Glock. Yes you can, but should you I wouldn't as they weren't designed to shoot lead cast bullets.

I believe the older ones had a tapered chamber to improve accuracy, and therefore the lead build up in them would eventually force the projectile back into the casing causing dangerous pressures.
 
I have shot cast from a Glock.
Soft Bullets of the right size and I dont push them too hard. = very accurate and no leading.

Hard Cast store purchased lead. = Leading.

If for some reason you can not get a cast load to work.
Pick up a after market, Ballard Rifled barrel.
Savings over jacketed bullets will more than pay for the barrel.

There is no inherent reason a polygonal barrel cant shoot lead. The 1st Poly barrels actually came out when lead was the only projectiles available.

Loose Noose may have a point though. I have never shot a older one.
 
I have both Lee and Lyman bullet molds. The Lymans feel really nice and heavy, the Lee seem light and fragile. Both cast good bullets, I have a 6 cavity mold for 9mm 125 gr that used to be tough to drop bullets for until I read about Leementing. Now it drops great bullets. My Lyman 358429 I have to run hotter at first until the mold heats up, then I can lower my pot temp to get good bullets. They both have their quirks, but once you learn them, both do a great job. I will say that I can cast longer with the lighter Lee molds as Cast Iron molds tire me out sooner. YMMV.

LNK
 
Don't bet on it with alum. They are very fragile

That is complete and utter B.S.
There is nothing fragile about a Lee aluminum mold. And I'm not a Lee fanboy either. I have an RCBS iron mold that I do like better than aluminum ones. However, them being fragile has nothing to do with it.

I didn't read up very much when I first started casting (stupid I know). For the first year, I beat the snot out of my aluminum molds, then read to tap gently on the screw in the mold handle and never on the blocks themselves. For a year I beat the molds with a 1x1 getting the boolits out and the molds still cast like they're brand new. I've dropped a Lee mold full of freshly poured lead onto the floor with no ill effects.

Are they as durable as an iron mold? Probably not. But they're FAR from fragile.
 
I own several Rapine molds along with the prep that is recommended to help them release the finished bullet easier, I also have a bunch of Lee molds, as well as Lyman, and RCBS molds, quite frankly I can't tell the difference in the quality of any of the bullets dropped. I usually drop them in a soft cloth or for that matter in a bucket of water.
 
Lee molds are great, and due to cost I use them almost exclusively.
If you're casting for 9mm you're going to want to do a lot of research on Cast Boolits.com
because you're most likely going to run into leading problems until you figure out your bore size, lead hardness, case swaging, and proper powder charge.

You don't need a thermometer, and most casters dont use them. I just use 9/10 on the lee pot to melt down the ingots, and once I have a full pot I turn it back down to 3/4 and just leave it there.
Make sure you lubricate the mold properly! This is key! You don't have to smoke the mold to get the bullets to release. When lead and aluminum are hot they won't stick. However, i would recommend you smoke the block faces for a very good reason, if you're casting too hot, or any renegade hot lead speck gets stuck between your mold faces you'll be able to find and identify it much easier. And to prevent this: don't dip the edge of the mold into the hot lead. I know lee reccomends it, but thats how most people including myself found themselves with bits of hot lead between the mold faces or on the steel pins.
Having said that, casting for my 9 is great fun and I can finally shoot as much as I'd like for the right price. Once you break in your mold, it's an absolute joy to work with and the boolits drop right out without whackin or shaking.
 
I just use 9/10 on the lee pot to melt down the ingots, and once I have a full pot I turn it back down to 3/4 and just leave it there.

I do the same thing with my Lyman pot. I have the small 10 pound dipper model.
 
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