Lee Turret Press Vs Lee Classic Turret for Handgun Reloading

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CBP

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Good day,
I've been browsing around here for a while and have been able to accomplish some good research. I'm interested in getting started in reloading. My current calibers are .38/.357 and .45 ACP. I may eventually want to reload 6mm also. I've studied the various presses and decided to go with a Lee turret press. I like the ability to quickly complete a few rounds rather than work in batches. I'm not looking at a large volume, maybe 200 - 400 per week.

I know many of you have the Lee classic turret press. I was also looking at the standard 4-hole press which runs about $25 less. Since I'm reloading pistol calibers in fairly small numbers, do I need the extra strength of the Classic Press?

Also, are there other features of the Classic press that would make it worth the extra cost?

A seperate question is on the Lee safety prime. When switching calibers, I will need to go from small to large primers. If I get the safety prime for large and small calibers (part #90997), does it come with a tray, tube, and trigger assembly for each size, or just a new trigger assembly?

Thanks for your help.
 
1. To simply answer your first question: It appears you do NOT need the Classic Cast version since you will be reloading pistol cartridges only.

I currently use a standard turret (bought about fifteen years ago) that I upgraded with the 4-hole kit and the Safety Prime Kit. It works fine, and I can load about 180 rounds an hour with it. BTW, I (currently) load only pistol cartridges--.38/.357, 10mm, and 45ACP. Recently I reloaded as much as 1200 rounds a week on it--typically 10-cartridge load-development runs. If that were a simple, single 'sweet spot' recipe, it would be tedious on any turret, but the turret excels at small batch runs like you want to do.

Were I buying a new press today, I would definitely get the Classic Cast Turret. It is a better-made press, and has one notable feature the standard Turret doesn't have--a well-controlled primer disposal system. On the standard Turret, you will find that used primers 'pop' out onto the bench top perhaps 5% of the time; on the Classic, they can end up in the can at your feet.

On the standard Turret (and Pro 1000), sooner or later you have to dismount the press to empty the primers in the base catch. (or drill a hole in the benchtop and attach a peanut butter jar catcher). Not a big deal, but even though there is a concern about the Classic Cast primer dump tube plugging up, it still is a more elegant solution. Some have said to simply keep a straightened coat hanger on hand to push up the ram to dispose of stuck primers.

I imagine the Classic Cast has a "Lee eccentricity" or two requiring appropriate maintenance. I had to sort out the 4-hole ratchet problem that can show up--but that is really mostly a function of understanding how the ratchet works, not short-stroking, and keeping it lubricated. Get some spare ratchets and don't worry about it. However, for the minor difference in price, you really are getting a better product, in the sense that it is more durable and stronger, AFAICT.

That more durable and stronger aspect will come into play if and when you also start doing rifle cartridges.

For your second question--yes, the Safety Prime Kit for large and small does include all trays, feeder arm, and dispensing head for both sizes.

My only observation here is that the Safety Prime is not perfect, but it's a better routine than manually inserting the primers. If you start having no-feeds when you push the button (as I did), then first try a blast of compressed air, or disassemble the insertion head and clean it. When I load new brass (without lubing), small brass shavings can go everywhere--including onto the primer insertion base and then on to the insertion head--and that can make operation erratic.


Jim H.
 
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A seperate question is on the Lee safety prime. When switching calibers, I will need to go from small to large primers. If I get the safety prime for large and small calibers (part #90997), does it come with a tray, tube, and trigger assembly for each size, or just a new trigger assembly?
Click to expand...
You will get two entirely separate assemblies that can quickly be installed/uninstalled. You will also have to switch the primer holder that sits in the ram, but that is easy too. Those primer holders were included with my Cast Turret.

When I started loading, I only owned pistols and had no intention of loading for rifle (lube cases?? ***!). I now load for two rifle calibers. Get the cast turret.
 
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i just went with the same thing when choosing between standard and cast, i choose cast, i do plan on doing rifle soon, but i stated on 45 acp. i do like how it collects the used primers in a tube or you can take the cap of the tube and put the end in a garbage can, i also bought the reloader press(the really cheap SS press) and it collects the primers in the base, you have to remove the press to clean them out
 
The differences in priming alone are worth the $25 difference in presses. The spent primers in the old turret wind up under the turret somewhere. Eventually they will start spilling out and you'll have to clean them up. Handling spent primers and having them around is no fun.

The classic cast has a tube that collects the spent primers, you can either direct the tube into a garbage can or you cap the tube and just uncap it and empty it into a garbage can occasionally. Either way you don't have to handle them.

The safety prime adds a ton of speed to the press, you want it. Your other priming options are placing a primer into the little cup that the press uses to prime shells by hand, which is tedious and slow, or priming outside the press which to me kind of defeats the purpose of a turret.

It comes with two completely separate units for small and large primer and they take about 15 seconds to switch back and forth.

The strength of the press is just a bonus.

Spend the $25, please, you will not regret it. If you keep the press it will be money well spent. If you end up selling it down the road you will get the money back.

By reloading 45 and 357 vs buying you'll save the $25 pretty quick anyway.
 
Welcome to the forum CBP...

As for the 2 different presses, I bought the 4 hole Turret Press first and several weeks later sold it and replaced it with the Classic Turret Press. The main reason I bought the Classic press is the ram. The ram on the Classic Turret press is almost twice as thick as the one on the none Classic Turret press. I found it a lot easier to reload .357 Magnum rounds with the heavier ram. Also, the linkage on the Turret press is made of case Aluminum whereas the linkage on the Classic Turret press is made of Steel. I think the throw is longer too but I'm not totally sure on that point.

If you intend upon reloading rifle rounds the additional $25 will be money VERY WELL spent. It is a much better press IMO but don't take my word for it, check for yourself. I wouldn't have known how much better built the Classic Turret press was unless I saw them both at Cabela's.
 
I also replaced the standard with the classic cast. Another feature I like on the classic is the ability to adjust the lever length (more leverage or shorter throw) and there is more clearance between the lever knob and the safety primer tray on the classic. - Phil
 
Wow, I checked this post this morning and found many good reasons to go with the Classic Press. Thank you for your replies. I'll probably purchase through F&M Reloading. I've price checked them against Kempf and Cabela's and once you throw in all the accessories and shipping, they are all close to the same price, with Cabela's being the highest. I might have to take a look at Kempf again though, because they offer a kit with some reasonable upgrades for the Classic press.

I've been fine tuning with my wish list and here is what I'm looking at purchasing:

  • Lee Classic 4 hole turret
  • Safety Primer Feed, Large and Small
  • Lee Pro Auto Disk Powder Measure
  • Auto Disk Riser
  • Adjustable Charge Bar
  • Lee Safety Scale
  • Lee Deluxe .45 ACP 4 die set
  • Lee 4-Hole Turret (Extra one, I'll get a used .38/.357 die from a friend)
  • Lee Pocket Primer Cleaner (Had some problems with the primers not seating correctly when a friend reloaded some .38's for me)
Some of the things I don't have are the chamfer tool, cutter and lock stud, and case length guage. Are these really necessary for straight wall handgun cases?

I'll also have to look into getting my own reloading manuals, dial calipers, and bullet puller. I might try my luck on Ebay to get some of those items. Any more comments on my wish list or extra tools would be appreciated. Thanks again.
 
your wish list is almost identical to my order. you dont need the chamfer tool, cutter and lock stud with straight wall pistol cases. however a manual, calipers, and bullet puller are also very important
 
First, a thank-you to you, CBP, for taking the time to update posters on your progress--it makes for collegial exchange on a forum like this.

1. Check the Pro Auto Disk setup, and if it doesn't include a swivel adapter, be sure to add one. The swivel adapter is important in allowing one to adjust the measure body so that it sets "inside" the die mount radius, which controls the inertia / momentum issues for smooth indexing.

2. If the used 38/357 die set is a 3-die, order the FCD die when you order the other gear.

3. I don't need to direct you on shopping--but I will mention that I have found the higher shipping costs found on e-bay, even with possible lower pricing--cannot make up for purchasing those other items with your initial order and saving on the shipping.

4. Have you figured out the case tumbler / media yet? There might be some difference of opinion on cleaning or not, and on media type, but you will want this right away, too. Clean cases minimize damage to dies.

Jim H.
 
Jim,
I'm pretty sure the Pro Auto Disk comes with the swivel. Interesting point on keeping it to the center, I'll have to remember that when I set it up.

I asked my co-worker and his .38/.357 die is a 3 die set, so I may just order a new set to get the crimper.

I'll probably hold off on the tumber for now, just due to cost. I've worked with cleaning up different metals before, so I was experimenting with some of my brass already. I soaked it in a solution of Bar-Keeper's Friend (a house hold cleaner in a can similiar to Comet) and water. I let is sit for a few hours, swirling the container occassionally. This cleans up the outside of the brass nicely, but it can leave some deposits on the inside. I think I'll try taking a copper bore brush and sticking it in a drill and use that to clean up the inside of the casings. I'm not sure if it will work and it is time consuming, but I want to experiment.

And I agree with you on the shipping costs on Ebay. My wife and I have a store through Ebay where she sells her sewn craft items and Civil War reproduction clothing, and its disgusting how some people will deflate their selling price and inflate the shipping costs. I always figure the price of shipping in before making a purchase. That's what I like about F&M Reloading, for a big order like mine, I know his shipping costs are reasonable.
 
Springfield - Yea, I was under the impression that I didn't need the case condition tools for the straight wall casings. I figure I can check the cases with calipers occassionaly to make sure they are within spec.
 
You need the case trimmer for .30 Carbine cases, but that's about the only one. And you really need it if you load that cartridge.

I suppose you could get a .38 SPL, .44 SPL, or .45 S&W trimmer to use when .357 Mag or .44 Mag or .45 Colt (respectively) brass cracks at the case mouth.
 
CPB: If you're planning on using various 'wet' cleaning products, be sure to check on the product: some formulations will attack / weaken brass. Since I've always done standard media cleaning with a tumbler and crushed walnut, I've not really looked into this--do a search here (or elsewhere) and see what others have to say about what wet solutions to use.

Your approach to cleaning will work--it's just not where I would put my time in. I'd rather calculate and try different components, and shoot--and lord knows, handguns tend to eat bullets like kids eat candy. This has been true for me, whether I'm plinking (typically with a .22), punching paper (both 38/357 and 45ACP), practical-type club competition, (.45ACP or 10mm) or just skills drills (currently 357-lite reloads in carry j-frames).

Buy / order the manuals, too--start with "The ABCs..."--which I use as quick read with a current edition to get up to speed on the current thinking, and then one like the Lyman Manuals or the Lee book. Recipes are abundant in the free pamphlets or online, so those are not a problem.

Jim H.
 
I'd go with Cabela's

Their customer service is superior to Dillon's'!-believe me. And, you can get Cabela's points back to you-money you can use to spend on additional purchases. Also, their shipping is quite reasonable.

I got the Lee Classic Turret Press kit from them for $149 and never looked back. It has most of everything you'll need-and it's up-to-date with the primer and powder throw systems...

If you ever have a problem with your purchase they will take care of you.
 
I'd go with Cabela's

Their customer service is superior to Dillon's'!-believe me. And, you can get Cabela's points back to you-money you can use to spend on additional purchases. Also, their shipping is quite reasonable and, last time I checked, based on dollar purchase amount and not on weight. That's something to consider, also, when purchasing your bullets.

I got the Lee Classic Turret Press kit from them for $149 and never looked back. It has most of everything you'll need-and it's up-to-date with the primer and powder throw systems...

If you ever have a problem with your purchase they will take care of you.
 
Ditto on getting the Classic Turret over the (non classic) Turret. I bought the non classic one first thinking like a doofus that it would better; it isn't for all the reasons people have laid out above.

For shopping for this kind of stuff, I don't think you can go wrong with Cabelas, MidwayUSA, or MidSouth Shooter's Supply. I would recommend shopping around for components once you figure out what you like. These bigger mail order places should always have what you want but may be pricier than you need to pay. I find that if I shop around say for a particular type of 9mm plain lead bullet, I can save a good amount by shopping around and making a bulk buy from here or there when a good deal comes up. There are a number of companies that make nothing but brass and boolits who can give you some good deals, better than what the "department store" type operations might be able to.
 
CBP, you will also need the auto disk riser so the auto disk doesn't hit the safety prime as the turret rotates. Your list looks good. I have the same setup and am very happy with it. As far as cleaning brass I have found a vibratory tumbler to require the least labor. It takes two minutes to load and five to unload. You can be doing a lot of other things while it is doing the work. Welcome to reloading and load safe.
Rusty
 
With the choice you're considering making, I think we'd take a pool up and give you the extra $25 so you can avoid buying the Lee "Pot Metal" press.

The Classic cast products are literally made from old railroad tracks. You really can't get stronger than that.
 
If you don't order one of the kits you MAY want to consider upgrading the scale.

The Lee one works and is about $20. It tops out at 100gr, which is OK for powder but you may want to weigh a bullet here or there. It also has an unusual way of measuring out .1 grains.

Hornady Model M is around $50 and quite a bit nicer. There are other options, too. I'd stick with a magnetic beam scale not a digital.

If the package deals make it a good enough deal, I guess get the Lee scale, you could sell it later and you might be content with it. If you have to buy it separate I would check on something else.

As far as tumblers. I'd spring for a kit with the media separator like this one:

http://www.grafs.com/product/165005

Or pick one up separately. Well worth the $30. Now that I've spent $100 of your money...
 
With the choice you're considering making, I think we'd take a pool up and give you the extra $25 so you can avoid buying the Lee "Pot Metal" press.
Click to expand...
Actually, I'm also debating whether to send my kids to Penn State or Harvard, maybe you can get a pool going to help me with the difference in tuition. :D

All kidding aside, I have decided on the Classic Turret Press. I'm still researching the other accessories, such as the scale and the tumbler. I was hoping to keep the budgeted cost at under $200, but that's not going to happen since I'm starting from scratch.

Actually, I did just try out the bronze brush in my drill. It worked great to clean the inside of the case. The only drawback is that the bristles are about 1/4 inch from the end, so I can't reach to the bottom. It only took about 3 seconds and the inside was clean. I have a floor mounted drill press that I can set up at a low speed to use if I can find a good brush. I think one with a small bulb of bristles on the end would do the trick. The one concern though is the dust created by this method.
 
I bought my second press from F&M and they were fast to ship and had the best price that I was able to find. I would agree they are the one to buy from.

Also, I would replace the Dial Calipers with Digital Calipers, they are much easier to use and you are less likely to make a mistake. I bought Frankford Arsenal Electronic 6" Stainless Steel Caliper from Midway for only $29.99 on sale. They are now $32.99 but that's still a very good price IMO.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=604242&t=11082005

I would also highly recommend a case tumbler. It's not a good idea to put any chemicals on your brass. Not only can it weaken the case but it can contaminate the charge too. The $50 you spend will be wlll worth the money. You get good clean cases to reload that won't damage your Dies and you are sure you're not adding anything into the mix that doesn't belong there.
 
I got my setup from F&M too. It was drop-shipped directly from Lee.

I have a little Frankford Arsenal digital scale. It's accurate based on the check weights I've placed on it, it's fast, and it's easy to use. And most importantly, I haven't blown myself or my guns up by using it. I also use the Frankford Arsenal digital calipers. I'm sure a nicer scale or calipers could matter if I shot benchrest, but I don't.
 
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