Let's ask....Has Blazer ammo ever eaten up your extractor?

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No. It's aluminum cased, not much tougher than brass on your ejector. I've shot many cases of it in 9mm, .40S&W and .45ACP with never a problem.
 
Not sure, had a P95 that had 4-5 tousand rounds of Blazer thru it, Ruger said it might have attributed to an extractor failure I experienced. Something about the aluminum cases tend to stick to a chamber more than brass, less elasticity if I remember correctly.
 
My .45 1911 has no trouble with Blazers, but as soon as it gets hot, Wolf's start gluing themselves in the chamber.
 
I used to shoot lots of CCI Blazer until I found out that Walmart sell Winchester ammo cheap. It has never harmed my guns in any way except for bad leading when using .38spl LRN loads.:(

Some of my guns won't feed it. My friend's UZI hates it so did my Kahr E-9.
 
Anodizing aluminum creates a thin coat of Aluminum Oxide on the surface of the aluminum.

Aluminum Oxide is the second hardest substance known to man (sapphire) and is an abrasive. It will easily cut steel since it is several times harder than steel.

Fortunately, Blazer finishes the cases so that they are very smooth which means that the finish, though abrasive, is a VERY fine abrasive. A LOT of Blazer would polish the extractor, and perhaps round the edges a bit over time, but probably not much faster than the general crud and grit that is found on a typical brass case.

I've shot a LOT of Blazer in my guns and have never noticed any ill effects.
 
Far from beating up the Wilson Bulletproof extractors I have installed on my 1911s, they sometimes rip through the rim of overexpanded aluminum cases stuck in the chamber.

I only buy Blazer when I am feeling too lazy to reload, or pluck brass out of the dirt, and it's on sale somewhere.
 
I have used it different handguns without any problems except for a M11. The primer would stick to the firing pin and I would have a hell of a time getting it off:fire:
 
I've used a lot of it in both 9x19 and .45 ACP with no problems. I buy it when Natchez or the like has it on sale and use it for classes, etc. where brass scrounging is a hassle.

IME, it's at least as accurate as any other generic ball and more reliable than some. I don't believe that the cases are "anodized". They are given some sort of coating to inhibit oxidation and ease extraction, but I'm not sure of what it is, exactly.

I bought a couple of cases of 9x19 while it was going for $4.85/box in case lots. I can't reload it for that, even using cast bullets. Ditto .45 for $7.75/box. I don't use Wolf or the other Russian brands except in my Maks. It gunks up my pistols quickly, and (as previously mentioned) the lacquered cases make for unreliable extraction in short order in my 1911s and CZs.
 
Seems fine to me - - -

I've run a couple of thousand rounds of 9x19 thru my G19 and Browning HP with no apparent ill effects. About to buy some more, too.:D

Best,
Johnny
 
I blame my cracked extrator a few years ago on 500 rounds of Wolf 9mm in my Hi-Power (clone). Many, many "glued in the chamber" rounds. That's pretty hard on an extractor. A looser chamber might not have any trouble with it.
 
hard to see how a aluminum case could damage a hardened steel extractor

I agree it probably won't hurt the extractor like a steel case would, but for the record: extractors are not made of hardened steel, they have to be pretty soft so they are "springy". If you do any shaping on them, they file and sand off pretty fast.
 
for the record: extractors are not made of hardened steel, they have to be pretty soft so they are "springy". If you do any shaping on them, they file and sand off pretty fast.
Don't they usually harden the working surfaces?
 
Just for the record: Aluminum Oxide has to be heated up to about 3600 degrees and then cooled to form the very hard crystalline structure of saphire. I think that boron carbide is harder than saphire.

Elliot
 
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