.308 Norma
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What badkarmamib said.Insult away! I always knew hogs were tough critters, but never delved into the why. Never hunted them, none around here. But, I learned something new, so today is a good day. Thanks!
What badkarmamib said.Insult away! I always knew hogs were tough critters, but never delved into the why. Never hunted them, none around here. But, I learned something new, so today is a good day. Thanks!
That's why you need hardcast heavy bullets for these guys.I don't mean to insult anyone's intelligence, but some folk may not know about a boar hog's gristle plate; a.k.a. "shoulder plate", a.k.a. "shoulder shield".
When dropping a large boar hog, you must understand that the bullet is first going to have to drive through the critter's gristle plate. So I'm posting a link to an article that describes this anatomical structure. Boar hogs fight and they are monsters with razor sharp tusks (there are several names for these tusks, the name varies by culture). This plate helps protect them from being ripped open during combat. This plate is going to impede a bullet's ability to get into the hog's boiler works (heart and lungs).
View attachment 1163307View attachment 1163310
The illustration is from the article. Below I quote a paragraph from the above article:
"The shield initially develops as early as 9-12 months of age, and then increases to be found in all adult boars (36+ months of age). Growth of the shield begins in the central lateral shoulder region and then increases to cover an area extending from the base of the neck back to the front portion of the hips (Fig. 2), and from the middle of the back down to the upper margin of the front leg. The average shield dimensions are as follows: length 14 inches, height 12 inches, and thickness 1 inch. The shield thickness in older boars can even reach 2 inches. These dimensions increase with age, physical size, and body weight. The thickness varies seasonally, being greatest during the annual peak of conception, and is positively correlated with the animal’s body condition."
As for the 45-70, there are varying factory loadings both in bullet types and in varying chamber pressures. Very low pressure loads are for older rifles -- these may even fire in an old trapdoor, but check on this yourself. Then there are the medium loads for levers. Hot loads (+P and such) are for the strongest receivers. Some specialty levers will handle a lot of pressure; HOWEVER, make sure your rifle is built for high pressure loads before buying such ammunition.
As you already know, hogs come in all sizes, from small to HUGE and dangerous.
In the following video, a fellow tests several manufacturers of 45-70 cartridges in his lever-action rifle for accuracy at 100 yards:
That's interesting. I had no idea, but I've never hunted them except in Cabela's Dangerous Hunts LOL. Do you think a .30-30 or .44 mag would work? I don't want to get something that doesn't handle them.I don't mean to insult anyone's intelligence, but some folk may not know about a boar hog's gristle plate; a.k.a. "shoulder plate", a.k.a. "shoulder shield".
When dropping a large boar hog, you must understand that the bullet is first going to have to drive through the critter's gristle plate. So I'm posting a link to an article that describes this anatomical structure. Boar hogs fight and they are monsters with razor sharp tusks (there are several names for these tusks, the name varies by culture). This plate helps protect them from being ripped open during combat. This plate is going to impede a bullet's ability to get into the hog's boiler works (heart and lungs).
View attachment 1163307View attachment 1163310
The illustration is from the article. Below I quote a paragraph from the above article:
"The shield initially develops as early as 9-12 months of age, and then increases to be found in all adult boars (36+ months of age). Growth of the shield begins in the central lateral shoulder region and then increases to cover an area extending from the base of the neck back to the front portion of the hips (Fig. 2), and from the middle of the back down to the upper margin of the front leg. The average shield dimensions are as follows: length 14 inches, height 12 inches, and thickness 1 inch. The shield thickness in older boars can even reach 2 inches. These dimensions increase with age, physical size, and body weight. The thickness varies seasonally, being greatest during the annual peak of conception, and is positively correlated with the animal’s body condition."
I've got a standing search on Gunbroker for 7600s and 760s trying to find a reasonably priced on. I spent a good chunk of Jun in PA working an exercise and hit every gunshop in about a 75 mile radius looking for one, to no avail. There's supposed to be millions of them in PA, but apparently they know how much they're going for.My father always described his Remington 760 as a brush gun. 30-06 will do most things a gun needs to do. He had a detachable Weaver 8x on it and always told me he preferred to just use the open sights.
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I have his 760 now and never placed a high value on it other than sentimental. I read somewhere that 760's and 7600's have started to gain in popularity lately as "brush guns".
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If you want to go more exotic I have heard the 35 Whelen (basically a 35-06) is "brush gun" nirvana... but I think 30-06 is pretty darn sufficient for most things and much easier to find. My father always told me that if you can't humanely harvest it with a 30-06 then you probably shouldn't be shooting at it.
I've got a standing search on Gunbroker for 7600s and 760s trying to find a reasonably priced on. I spent a good chunk of Jun in PA working an exercise and hit every gunshop in about a 75 mile radius looking for one, to no avail. There's supposed to be millions of them in PA, but apparently they know how much they're going for.
I'm dying to get my hands on one to have it chopped and bored out to .358 "something", synthetic stocked, Ceracoated and to mount a LPVO, but they are going for a premium.
It'd have to be under $700 to justify the work I'd put into it. Of course I could go higher for a 35W.They made them in .35 Whelen....if you can find one of those, you won't have to rebore.
p.s. I went over to Gunbroker, the first 760 that popped up was in .35 Whelen!
Edit: What is your definition of "reasonably priced"?
Shuff’s Mini-G in .308.
There, done.
Love the dog’s-leg bolt handle!Or if you can find them - and don’t mind Old School looks and styling - Remington’s 18.5” M600 or the later 20” M660 are extremely light, compact, and quick-pointing. Mine are chambered in .350 Rem.Magnum, which I can load up or down, but they were also chambered in.308.
FYI Remington did a run of synth 35 rem 7600s for Grice. Regular and carbine versions.I've got a standing search on Gunbroker for 7600s and 760s trying to find a reasonably priced on. I spent a good chunk of Jun in PA working an exercise and hit every gunshop in about a 75 mile radius looking for one, to no avail. There's supposed to be millions of them in PA, but apparently they know how much they're going for.
I'm dying to get my hands on one to have it chopped and bored out to .358 "something", synthetic stocked, Ceracoated and to mount a LPVO, but they are going for a premium.
I always wanted a .45-70 levergun. I don't have either a lever, or semi auto (of any kind). I've only used 12ga pump, and bolt rifles.Henry or Marlin levergun in 30-30 or 45-70. 30-30 used to be $12 a box but now 30-30 prices aren't too far off from 45-70 and I think the 45-70 is a lil more versatile, a tad more expensive though but if you ever pick up a Lee Loader or some simple reloading equipment you can load 4570 cheaper than you can buy factory 30-30.
The 45-70 Henry I shoot I have grown to really love, I am surgically accurate with iron sights at about 80 yards (as far as I have shot it except for a couple shots @100) but I know anything under 100 yards I can hit really well with it. The Henry feels great, excellent action, smooth. I think I'd be just as pleased with a Marlin too. Those are good options for deer and hogs I believe. I can't wait to start loading for mine, plinking with tame heavy 405gr loads looks like alot of fun.
I like the .45cal AR idea too, but if you already have AR's, treat yourself to something different because levers are alot of fun. I never had much interest in them but I really enjoy the Henry
I might do this too. I might be able to get my hands on the 7mm I used to use in Idaho, and use it for hogs. Then get a more normal round for deer. Only issue is I'm not sold on using a bolt gun, except that I don't think any hog alive will have a chance to charge me after that rem mag gets through going through him LOL!I don't know what they cost but a Winchester model 94 in 30-30 with a short barrel 20" is typical has been taking deer and hogs in Louisiana for a long time . Louisiana has a lot of thick cover and is where most deer and hogs are hunted .
I know they have model 92's in handgun calibers but the 30-30 is hard to beat .
Finding ammo is easy (or it was) and the lever action is fast and reliable ...
Gary
Just to complicate things further, if you want something like an AR10 and have AR's to begin with, a .350 or .450 upper and BCG would make alot of sense, I have a good few AR's but I only really enjoy 2 of them, doesn't mean they aren't great tools for the task at hand, but they sure can get boring. Just saying, I love em, but if you're looking at a Browning BLR maybe you would take a look at an FNAR, they are excellent, not quite as modular as an AR10 but if you're looking for a very capable long range .308 win in the browning family, the FNAR might be another option to consider. I think it can very easily fit the bill for battle/defensive w/10-20rd mags or for hunting hogs/deer, they also have 5 rd flushies. I love the look of flush mags for some reason.I always wanted a .45-70 levergun. I don't have either a lever, or semi auto (of any kind). I've only used 12ga pump, and bolt rifles.
It really will depend on what is going on on MO when I pick up a rifle. If I can get any cartridge, then I'll probably get an AR10, just because it's easy to change uppers, and having more ammo available for a charging hog is better than asking politely if he will stop and let me reload LOL.
If I'm limited to straight wall, then I'm getting a .45-70 and liking it. (Again, I always wanted one, but the cost or ammo is more than a 7mm rem mag I used before. And 2x what .20 or .243 goes for).
Any idea what the quality of Browning BLRs is like? They have .243, .270, and .30-06 in those, which I think is cool. I just need to know if they're worth looking at or not.
I might do this too. I might be able to get my hands on the 7mm I used to use in Idaho, and use it for hogs. Then get a more normal round for deer. Only issue is I'm not sold on using a bolt gun, except that I don't think any hog alive will have a chance to charge me after that rem mag gets through going through him LOL!
I have this exact rifle and I can tell you it is well worth the money.Something like this. Mossberg 464. 16" barrel 30-30.View attachment 1163150
Is it a discontinued line? It looks like a synthetic M1 Garand or m14 or something. I like the look, but I don't know if I'm willing to spend that much fit a used gum, when I can have a Browning BLR or decent ar10 new for that.Just to complicate things further, if you want something like an AR10 and have AR's to begin with, a .350 or .450 upper and BCG would make alot of sense, I have a good few AR's but I only really enjoy 2 of them, doesn't mean they aren't great tools for the task at hand, but they sure can get boring. Just saying, I love em, but if you're looking at a Browning BLR maybe you would take a look at an FNAR, they are excellent, not quite as modular as an AR10 but if you're looking for a very capable long range .308 win in the browning family, the FNAR might be another option to consider. I think it can very easily fit the bill for battle/defensive w/10-20rd mags or for hunting hogs/deer, they also have 5 rd flushies. I love the look of flush mags for some reason.
My uncle has an FNAR with a Harris bipod and many different mags and uses a Swarovski Z3 4-12×50, it's an incredible combo, but I think an AR is alot mo betta......
Of course. Any reasonable firearm. . . Do you think a .30-30 or .44 mag would work? I don't want to get something that doesn't handle them.