Looking for a decent skinning knife
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Kingcreek
Member
yikes. after recommending Tinus Beukus I looked up some of his current pricing and was surprised. I bought 2 from him several years ago. One for $55 and one for $85 and now they are all over $200. (still nice knives though)
Many good quality knives available in the OP's range of $100-200.
Check out Bark River knives.
Many good quality knives available in the OP's range of $100-200.
Check out Bark River knives.
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A number of his pieces are running on eBay even now. Here is one of them.
Looks like this:
Interestingly, it shares a certain stylistic similarity with the Buck 113 Ranger and the Buck Gen5 above.
Not to sure what happened to my previous post, but the113 is a very nice knife!!!!! I had a look at various knives and this styl of blade I really fancy. I like the slightly broader blade as apossed to the "skinny" blades. Sorry about the pic size. This is a Arno Bernard Raven blade
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Lol, yeah, they are a bit pricy, but as you said, he delivers very nice knives though. Quick question though, someone made mention that a mate of his makes knives as well, but out of either 12c27 or N690 s/steel. Would these steels be any good for my application?
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Fred Fuller
Moderator Emeritus
Fred ... that Randall Model 25 is s-s-s-seven hundred twenty five dollars!
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Unfortunately, yes. I said when I first mentioned it earlier in the thread that it was probably outside his stated price range. Back when I got the one I have, it was $235 IIRC, across the counter at a local stocking Randall dealer (Cumberland Knife and Gun, for anyone else who ever haunted Bragg Boulevard in Fayetteville, NC). But that was several years ago, and Cumberland Cut and Shoot (as it used to be known) closed its doors some time ago.
Sure does its job well, though... But any good blade with the same basic size/shape and angle to the handle would perform pretty much the same, I'd say. The reason I posted it was to show the blade shape/size/style.
Probably should move the 25 into the gun safe, though...
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Unfortunately, yes. I said when I first mentioned it earlier in the thread that it was probably outside his stated price range. Back when I got the one I have, it was $235 IIRC, across the counter at a local stocking Randall dealer (Cumberland Knife and Gun, for anyone else who ever haunted Bragg Boulevard in Fayetteville, NC). But that was several years ago, and Cumberland Cut and Shoot (as it used to be known) closed its doors some time ago.
Sure does its job well, though... But any good blade with the same basic size/shape and angle to the handle would perform pretty much the same, I'd say. The reason I posted it was to show the blade shape/size/style.
Probably should move the 25 into the gun safe, though...
Folks,
No fair suggesting knives above his $200 upper bound. Let's try to help him out instead of making him drown in drool for what he can't afford.
No fair suggesting knives above his $200 upper bound. Let's try to help him out instead of making him drown in drool for what he can't afford.
Lol, not to worry hso, I appreciate all the input, all though some suggestions might be filed under the "love to have" category
The issue is not as much the price tag, on some of these absolutely fantastic creations, but more the practicality side of things. You see, I need a working tool, which I can USE whenever I am in the bush. Something I can use without feeling to "sorry" every time it gets a nick or scratch on it. To drag a blade of let's say $750, regular basis through the African bush, would do a knife of such caliber a total injustice, well in my newb opinion that is.
A practical full tang knife, with a good quality edge holding steel blade, with a blade which is not to bad in design as well as on the eye and finally, at a price which is relative to the knife I am getting, is what I am after. So I suppose what I am attempting to achieve with this exercise, is to strike a balance between practicality, quality, design and finally a relative price. I just hope such a balance indeed does excist
Hornet,
Part of the problem is finding horn/antler materials in standard production knives while staying in your price range and giving you the performance I'd expect you to need. There are a lot of custom makers out there that can do this, but their prices tend to start above $200 (see the Group Buy for Gary Wheeler's knives). In the $400-$500 range on production knives you'll find the Diamond Blade knives from the owners of Knives of Alaska. A relatively new technology is used to "forge" the edges that results in remarkable toughness and durability in the edge.
We have a few knife makers as members here who can make a blade to your specifications and produce an elegant knife that will be unique for you. Heck, we even have a SA member who started out with no experience and through passion and persistence was hammering out pretty nice looking pieces in short order. You may want to have one of your mates here make one for you. See Wheeler, Breed, Acawi, Fowler, and Sam's work and develop a relationship with them to see if they have something you like.
Part of the problem is finding horn/antler materials in standard production knives while staying in your price range and giving you the performance I'd expect you to need. There are a lot of custom makers out there that can do this, but their prices tend to start above $200 (see the Group Buy for Gary Wheeler's knives). In the $400-$500 range on production knives you'll find the Diamond Blade knives from the owners of Knives of Alaska. A relatively new technology is used to "forge" the edges that results in remarkable toughness and durability in the edge.
We have a few knife makers as members here who can make a blade to your specifications and produce an elegant knife that will be unique for you. Heck, we even have a SA member who started out with no experience and through passion and persistence was hammering out pretty nice looking pieces in short order. You may want to have one of your mates here make one for you.
See Wheeler, Breed, Acawi, Fowler, and Sam's work and develop a relationship with them to see if they have something you like.
ApacheCoTodd
member
My outfit... The old Old Timer Schrade Little Finger #152 (on top) may be replaced by the guthook #158OT model but I'm not sure yet as I really like the swing up tip of the LF. Though they don't show in my photo - the Schrades have very pretty bone handles and the Gutmann is a fine walnut.
The Guttman "Canadian Tapper" has worked well by itself but having the Schrade along is no more than carrying a pocket knife.
The Schrade Honesteel has been priceless and I buy them whenever I can find them un-abused and reasonably priced.
The Canadian Trappers can still be bought new and of high quality from Grohmann in Canada. These things have very stout blades with a great heavy spines should you need to get to hacking. be sure to look through the whole site for options and close-out specials. I will be getting their military sheath on the next one I buy.
The Guttman "Canadian Tapper" has worked well by itself but having the Schrade along is no more than carrying a pocket knife.
The Schrade Honesteel has been priceless and I buy them whenever I can find them un-abused and reasonably priced.
The Canadian Trappers can still be bought new and of high quality from Grohmann in Canada. These things have very stout blades with a great heavy spines should you need to get to hacking. be sure to look through the whole site for options and close-out specials. I will be getting their military sheath on the next one I buy.
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wleggart
Member
Dozier
go to: www.agrussell.com and search for: DK-YSBRH or DK-YSBRL That is all the knife you will ever need for the rest of your skinning duties. I like butchers steel to keep it razor sharp. Should not need to see any kind of stone for a LONG time.
go to: www.agrussell.com and search for: DK-YSBRH or DK-YSBRL That is all the knife you will ever need for the rest of your skinning duties. I like butchers steel to keep it razor sharp. Should not need to see any kind of stone for a LONG time.
Seriously,get a Dozier.The K16 Yukon Pro Skinner in D2 is $215 and an upgrade to Orange Brown Jigged Bone is $30 more.That is close to your budget.You will not find a better knife at a cheaper price.Dozier is famous for his D2.You can skin and quarter 4 deer before needing to sharpen,and then just a couple strokes on a DMT fine and it will pop hair.At least do some research on the Dozier.Buy one and you can thank me later.
DAMN, some of you guys have some nice toys!!!!!!
Here is a question: the are a whole host of steel tipes out there. I've been doing some reading about it, and it seems that the following types keep on popping up.
154CM
ATS 34
D2
440C
Then someone also made mention of
12C27
N690
Which one of these would be the best for a skinner, or does it not matter?
alaskanativeson
Member
Oh, it matters, but to what degree differs with each person telling the story. They all have some appeal. Here's a nickel's worth from an admitted amateur.
Several of them belong in the newer "super" stainless steels designed and marketed to compete with plain carbon steel for edge holding and ease of sharpening. 154CM, ATS34, N690 are some of the popular ones. Another you may run into is VG-10. All are very good steels for knives under the right conditions (see below.)
12C27 is a Sandvik Swedish steel that is used in Mora knives as well as many others. It is a very good all around steel.
440C started really gaining mass popularity in the 1970's as a stainless steel for knives that didn't stain like older knives made from carbon steel yet still held a good edge. Its popularity was its downfall. While it can be a good knife steel, it can also suck cow pies through a straw if not heat treated properly. Many companies found that if they marketed their knives as having 440C that they'd sell like crazy, so they started getting 440C from people who couldn't make it as a fry cook, let alone a metal worker. As a result, 440C lost much of its successful start. Still, it can be good if done right.
D2 is a tool steel that is considered semi-stainless because it has just under the amount of chromium needed to be considered stainless. While it CAN rust, it won't rust as fast as something like 1095. It is a very tough steel that holds an edge well but doesn't take an act of congress to get sharpened. D2 is a favorite of many higher-end manufacturers and custom makers. Like the super stainlesses listed above, it can be excellent.
Why the waffling? Because they type of steel in only one part of it. Proper heat treatment can turn a plain piece of 1095 into something just short of a light saber, while improper treatment can take a wonderful piece of CPM-S30V and make it as useless as a rock for a blade. Some custom makers do their own heat treating, some use a specialist like Paul Bos. If you're not going with a custom, it's important that you choose a maker who has a good reputation for making quality knives with quality materials.
Of the types of steels, you'll run into stainless, semi-stainless, and carbon. The last is kind of a misnomer, because most all knife steels have carbon in them, but stainless has a higher amount of chromium to make them resist rust, although this also detracts from its other properties as a knife steel. Carbon steels may have little to no chromium which makes them tougher, but makes them more susceptible to rust. Semi-stainless is in between. For a better lesson, I'd highly recommend you read THIS ARTICLE by Joe Talmage about knife steels. If you have further questions about the content of materials used in steels, A.G. Russell has THIS GUIDE to show you what steels have in them.
After growing out of my "must have stainless" phase, I learned that a good carbon steel blade will generally hold up better, be easier to resharpen, and it takes little work to keep them in good condition. Most of the knives I carry these days have carbon blades, or something like D2 or INFI. It's worth it to me to oil my knife edge occasionally to have a better knife. To each their own.
Like I said above, choose a company with a good reputation. The one I recommended earlier, Knives of Alaska, is great. Several people have suggested Bob Dozier. I can say without hesitation I'd be perfectly happy to carry nothing but a Dozier and feel well supplied with it if my Busse supply ran out (you'll get my INFI when you pry it from my cold, dead fingers.)
Hope this helps. If you think this response is too long, you should sit in on one of my classes when I get talking about the Revolutionary War, or worse, the Constitutional Convention. Yes, I'm a teacher. A passionate one.
Several of them belong in the newer "super" stainless steels designed and marketed to compete with plain carbon steel for edge holding and ease of sharpening. 154CM, ATS34, N690 are some of the popular ones. Another you may run into is VG-10. All are very good steels for knives under the right conditions (see below.)
12C27 is a Sandvik Swedish steel that is used in Mora knives as well as many others. It is a very good all around steel.
440C started really gaining mass popularity in the 1970's as a stainless steel for knives that didn't stain like older knives made from carbon steel yet still held a good edge. Its popularity was its downfall. While it can be a good knife steel, it can also suck cow pies through a straw if not heat treated properly. Many companies found that if they marketed their knives as having 440C that they'd sell like crazy, so they started getting 440C from people who couldn't make it as a fry cook, let alone a metal worker. As a result, 440C lost much of its successful start. Still, it can be good if done right.
D2 is a tool steel that is considered semi-stainless because it has just under the amount of chromium needed to be considered stainless. While it CAN rust, it won't rust as fast as something like 1095. It is a very tough steel that holds an edge well but doesn't take an act of congress to get sharpened. D2 is a favorite of many higher-end manufacturers and custom makers. Like the super stainlesses listed above, it can be excellent.
Why the waffling? Because they type of steel in only one part of it. Proper heat treatment can turn a plain piece of 1095 into something just short of a light saber, while improper treatment can take a wonderful piece of CPM-S30V and make it as useless as a rock for a blade. Some custom makers do their own heat treating, some use a specialist like Paul Bos. If you're not going with a custom, it's important that you choose a maker who has a good reputation for making quality knives with quality materials.
Of the types of steels, you'll run into stainless, semi-stainless, and carbon. The last is kind of a misnomer, because most all knife steels have carbon in them, but stainless has a higher amount of chromium to make them resist rust, although this also detracts from its other properties as a knife steel. Carbon steels may have little to no chromium which makes them tougher, but makes them more susceptible to rust. Semi-stainless is in between. For a better lesson, I'd highly recommend you read THIS ARTICLE by Joe Talmage about knife steels. If you have further questions about the content of materials used in steels, A.G. Russell has THIS GUIDE to show you what steels have in them.
After growing out of my "must have stainless" phase, I learned that a good carbon steel blade will generally hold up better, be easier to resharpen, and it takes little work to keep them in good condition. Most of the knives I carry these days have carbon blades, or something like D2 or INFI. It's worth it to me to oil my knife edge occasionally to have a better knife. To each their own.
Like I said above, choose a company with a good reputation. The one I recommended earlier, Knives of Alaska, is great. Several people have suggested Bob Dozier. I can say without hesitation I'd be perfectly happy to carry nothing but a Dozier and feel well supplied with it if my Busse supply ran out (you'll get my INFI when you pry it from my cold, dead fingers.)
Hope this helps. If you think this response is too long, you should sit in on one of my classes when I get talking about the Revolutionary War, or worse, the Constitutional Convention. Yes, I'm a teacher. A passionate one.
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The Highlander
Member
- Joined
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- 256
The delrin handles kinda look like horn, and the U.S. made ones are still pretty cheap on ebay. This is one of the best sub-$50 skinners I've handled. More recently I've picked up a chinese version and an old hickory skinner for $14 total. Both are great beaters, and the old hickory takes a ridiculous edge. (It looks really bootleg though)
Steel isn't the only critical part of the equation. Heat treat on a given steel is the other critical factor. A 440C heat treated for your application will perform better than a 440C heat treated for a different application. Same for ATS34 or others. Too soft and it won't hold and edge, but be easy to sharpen.
Pick the most reputable company/maker possible that makes a knife for YOUR purpose and you'll be fine.
Pick the most reputable company/maker possible that makes a knife for YOUR purpose and you'll be fine.
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Lol, had a good chuckle just now. No no thank you, if it is ok with you, I'll take a rain check on the Revolutionary War/CC experience, never been my forte.
, but the info as mentioned, now THAT on the other hand, is very much appreciated!!! It took practically the entire day today (public holiday this side), but I think I have finally set up my "short list". And the candidates are: Arno Bernad - Raven
Grohmann Knives Micarta Short Blade Skinner Carbon Steel
Arno Bernad - Wild Dog
Dan Crotts - Model 1 Hunter w/Black Micarta D2
Bob Dozier - K-2 General Purpose Hunting Knife
Bob Dozier - K-11 Columbia River Skinner
Bob Dozier - K-19 Professional Skinner
Any final suggestions?
ApacheCoTodd
member
If you go with the Grohmann (which I like best out of the above options in your post #43) be sure to note that they show two slightly different grinds for the same knife as shown in the Rosewood photo and your Water Buffalo photo.
The features I like best in these knives rather than the others are the handle shape for one handed versatility and the edge shape allowing a longer rolling cut before arriving at the tip and reinitiating.
I'd also look hard at the "Army" sheath as the standard has a relatively narrow connection at the bottom of the belt loop and should be reinforced if you intend to carry it a lot.
Another feature I don't like doing without is a lanyard hole. I just knot one end of a length of parachute cord and slip it through to hold the other end in my teeth to not set the knife down when I need both hands.
The features I like best in these knives rather than the others are the handle shape for one handed versatility and the edge shape allowing a longer rolling cut before arriving at the tip and reinitiating.
I'd also look hard at the "Army" sheath as the standard has a relatively narrow connection at the bottom of the belt loop and should be reinforced if you intend to carry it a lot.
Another feature I don't like doing without is a lanyard hole. I just knot one end of a length of parachute cord and slip it through to hold the other end in my teeth to not set the knife down when I need both hands.
I like a hunting knife narrow enough at the tip to cut all around the **** and the inside of the anal cavity,so that I can easily remove the **** with the intestine intact.That Grohmann looks a bit too wide at the tip for me.
The Krotts and Dozier K-11 and K-2 look good ,though the K-16 is my favorite.
The Krotts and Dozier K-11 and K-2 look good ,though the K-16 is my favorite.
If your on a budget or want an entry level knife IMO it's hard to go wrong with the Buck 103 or 113 Ranger Skinner for a designated hunting knife while their 420hc doesn't hold a candle to more modern "super steels" in terms of edge retention it is however a very forgiving steel and can easily be sharpened in the field.
Buck Protege without the serrated section on the blade. I know you didn't want a folder or synthetic handle but price just about dictates it. if you want to go closer to the 200 bucks I would go with the Vanguard by Buck with the gut hook. they may offer it in stag or bone handle but it would be custom. Spend the 25 dollars American and get the Protege and don't look back. We have used them almost exclusively for the last 10 years without a hitch. That is probably close to 100 whitetail deer.
MutinousDoug
Member
I'm sure any of the knives on your short list will serve you well. As you can see from my post above, I prefer a drop point with no guard so I am attracted to the Arno Bernard designs.
I don't care for a trailing point for a skinner as I tend to poke holes in the hide when using them for skinning. They are great for fine work like caping around the ears, nose and eyes with a narrow blade like the "Sharp finger". I would use my Gerber "Pixie" or the PAL 24 for those tasks but as you can see there are many opinions regarding a proper knife and I am strictly an amateur who slaughters and skins at most, 1-2 animals a year.
As far as clearing the ****, I cut around the opening with a relatively blunt blade (by blunt I mean sharp but not pointed), pull the colon out about 3-4 inches, tie it off with a piece of string and pull all the guts out through the body cut. I pretty much use my fingers to separate the colon from the pelvis and avoid poking a knife in there if possible.
Biggest problem I have is finding and separating the urethra from the carcass without spilling pee in the body cavity while keeping "evidence of sex" attached to the body as prescribed by local law.
I don't care for a trailing point for a skinner as I tend to poke holes in the hide when using them for skinning. They are great for fine work like caping around the ears, nose and eyes with a narrow blade like the "Sharp finger". I would use my Gerber "Pixie" or the PAL 24 for those tasks but as you can see there are many opinions regarding a proper knife and I am strictly an amateur who slaughters and skins at most, 1-2 animals a year.
As far as clearing the ****, I cut around the opening with a relatively blunt blade (by blunt I mean sharp but not pointed), pull the colon out about 3-4 inches, tie it off with a piece of string and pull all the guts out through the body cut. I pretty much use my fingers to separate the colon from the pelvis and avoid poking a knife in there if possible.
Biggest problem I have is finding and separating the urethra from the carcass without spilling pee in the body cavity while keeping "evidence of sex" attached to the body as prescribed by local law.
riomedinamike
Member
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I am a big fan of a semi skinner design, and i had Corbert Sigman 20 + years ago make one for me with a five inch blade. I believe he has passed away, and no, my knife is not for sale and will pass to my son. A close example is a Cold Steel Pendleton hunter, which aren't very expensive. Having bought very expensive knives in the past from many custom makers, I now would rather have 10 cold steel knives rather than one expensive custom knife. I've lost a couple of Expensive knives while in the field, and i'd much rather displace a good but inexpensive knife than endure the agony of trying to find a high dollar knife in the brush. Just my opinion.
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