Looking for a Headspace Gauge

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I'm looking at the L.E. Wilson and the Lyman Headspace Gauge. Anyone with experience with either one? Is one better than the other? Perhaps another brand?
Reloading for my M1 Garand
 
Maybe you're asking about a case gage?

All I have used is L.E. Wilson and they have been great.

rc
 
Yes a case gauge. I noticed that the Wilson did not gauge diameter, while the Lyman did, and if that might make a difference choosing one over the other.
 
You'll need to be full-length sizing (and, perhaps even using a small-base sizing die, depending on whom you ask) for the garand, so IMO diameter is not a concern. I have the wilson and it works well for its intended purpose.
 
Thanks dprice384444 for the reference had no idea planet optics carried reloading supplies. 1KPerDay looks like L.E. Wilson will do. Never used one before and probably need to start.

Thanks for the input all.:D
 
I have Wilsons for .223 and .308.
I adjusted my full length sizing dies to deliver brass that passes the gauges and have had good accuracy and no casehead separations. What more could you ask?
 
I'm looking ... Headspace Gauge.
Reloading for my M1 Garand....
I'm going to jump off the tracks and suggest that you do not use any of these case gauges, and instead do it "right" ;)

1. Get a Hornady Headspace gauge comparator set.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/47...-headspace-gage-5-bushing-set-with-comparator

2. Pull the Garand/bolt apart to get the extractor off, and remove the OpRod spring

3. Using a cartridge case that you gradually size, determine where the bolt just closes w/o feel

4. Use the Hornady comparator, measure and record that case's headspace dimension.

5. Adjust the sizing die in another 0.002" (by the headspace gauge) and lock it.

You now have an accurate record of where you want to size cases to -- regardless of brand or brass condition. Start every loading session by checking that dimension as they come out of the die, and adjust the die if required to achieve it.



NOTE: Some will say -- with good reason -- "...just Full Length Size the doggone things and chuck them after X firings." I can't argue w/ that boundary condition logic... but I just always like to know exactly where I am on the knee of the curve. :D
 
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I have a Dillon gauge in .223 and .30-06 (and I assure you, I am no Dillon fanboy!), and a JP Rifle gauge in .308. All three measure body diameter in addition to headspace (and case length).

I use small base dies in both .308 and .30-06, and I do get the occasional out of spec body diameter (mostly due to very slight deformities that I have a hard time seeing, I'm guessing from using a bit too much lube and crushing a shoulder a tiny bit). Plus the Dillons are stainless steel, and cost the same as the L.E. Wilsons...

Any gauge will do you right, but this is kind of a no-brainer to me.

Have fun!
 
I would agree that the Hornady Comparator set is ultimately more useful. You can use factory ammo as a reference or you can also use fired casings to set a specific amount of shoulder bump. Factory ammo is not guaranteed to be right though.
 
I can't speak to OP's caliber, but I have both a Lyman and LE Wilson case gauge for .223. The reason I have both is because the Lyman gauge is inaccurate. I have cases that will not fit into the Lyman gauge that will fit into the Wilson gauge. When I measure the inside diameter of the Lyman gauge with a caliper it measures UNDER SAMMI specs. So it would cause you to reject cases/rounds that are OK.

Long story short - I will never buy another Lyman case gauge.
 
If you want handloads to fit your chamber perfectly, forget about making them to documented specifications. It's much more accurate to make handloads compare to a fired case from your rifle.

Look into the Digital Headspace Gauge. It gets calibrated by one of your fired cases. Then as it measures one of your handloads, it displays the info needed to set your FL die height more accurately. This limits the clearance at the shoulder and reduces case run-out. It also ensures that your handloads will always chamber.
 
I find the Wilson case gage much more useful then a comparator.

I drop every round of .223 I load in mine just to insure there are no defects that would lock up an AR.

I use a .25 cent birthday candle to smoke a case when setting up sizing dies for a specific rifle.

Nobody can convince me a $40 set of doodads is any more accurate then a film of candle soot getting squeezed off the case shooulder by the rifles chamber when the bolt is closed on it.

rc
 
I own several case gauges too, and they do the job they are made for. However, I find it helpful to bump the shoulder of my handloads to fit MY particular chamber.

I also use the Digital Headspace Gauge to measure bullet jump the the rifling, and unlike most handloading tools - it works on ALL rifle calibers.
 
I adjusted my full length sizing dies to deliver brass that passes the gauges and have had good accuracy and no casehead separations. What more could you ask?
Same here. I use tools to measure the shoulder for bolt guns etc, and bump accordingly, but for .223 and .30-06 for autos, I use a Wilson case gauge.
 
If you want handloads to fit your chamber perfectly, forget about making them to documented specifications. It's much more accurate to make handloads compare to a fired case from your rifle.

Works well with bolt guns but I would disagree with that when it comes to semi automatic weapons.

These mechanisms open up while there is still residual pressure in the barrel. This is intentional, the pressure is generally less than 650 psia, to avoid rupturing the cartridge, because this increases the time useful energy is available to operate the mechanism.

What it also does is stretch the case.

These cases were fired 23 times in a M1a. Somewhere in the middle of this I used small based dies and I always sized the cases to gage minimum.

My long case life is due to cartridge lubrication, I never had a single case head separation. I left either RCBS case lube on the cases, most of the time I rubbed Johnson paste wax on the outside of the case. The paste wax dried hard, did not attract dirt, under the temperatures and pressures of combustion the wax would melt.

Anyway, even though these cases were fired lubed, they stretched. The front of the case was sticking to something.

Therefore, you might not be able to make sense of chamber length in a gas gun from fired cases.

LC66caseelongation22Xfired.jpg

LC66caseheadabovegage.jpg

I have been using Wilson gages, but now that I know Dillion are stainless, go for the stainless. My gages I oil them before storage and I have to wipe them down afterwards.

ReducedWilsongagemeasuringnew308bra.jpg
 
SlamFire1 .......
Even when two bolt guns are chambered with the same reamer, the headspace can differ depending on the depth of cut and when tightening the barrel.

I have seen the case stretch situation you described with semi autos. However, in my testing (with suppressed rifles) I have measured cases that were fired with the gas system open and closed, and the difference in chamber clearance (at the shoulder) is less than a thousandth of an inch.
 
If you size for a case gauge, and you are getting good case life with no signs of case head separation after several firings, you don't have a problem. If you are getting signs of case head separation after 2, 3, or 4 firings, you will need to adjust how you size.
 
Wilson needs to take a clue from Dillon and Lyman and make their gages out of stainless steel.
Steel in the white just rusts too easily especially where I live.
 
Aren't the case gauges more relevant for fine-tuning to a particular rifle?

Wouldn't you want to re-size for ANY rifle with correct headspace?

Yeah, I know guys fire-form their brass in a specific gun and then do limited re-sizing/neck work, but isn't that kind of asking for trouble; "here, Buddy, use these today until you get some more ammo for your gun..."?
 
I also use Wilson case gauges and for me they work well. I only bought 3, for the .223, .308 and the 30-06...

I have not ever needed to use small base dies for sizing 30-06 cases for use in the Garand. I haven't heard of anyone needing them either.
 
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