Looking for advice on an S&W Model 36

[OldBrownDog]

Hey guys, I'm just hoping some of the revolver gurus here can give me some advice on a Model 36 I've had my eye on at a local shop.

The revolver is in really nice shape. Locks up very tight, no bluing wear, rust, etc.

However.... when the hammer and trigger are in their normal "resting" position, the cylinder can be hand rotated to the RIGHT, or clockwise direction. There is a click or slight hang up at each notch in the cylinder, so it does not spin freely. Every trigger pull results in the cylinder rotating correctly to the left (CCW), and the cylinder cannot be rotated by hand in that direction.

So, what's the likely problem here? The shop owner says they had a gunsmith look it over and replace a bunch of things inside, and thats as good as it will get . It definitely needs a trip back to S&W or a competent 'smith, right?

Personally, I like the thing, and think it'd go good with my current K and N frame S&W's. It's priced at $399 but I've been considering offering $300 cash OTD. Reasonable, given that it'll definitely need work?

 

[jimbo555]

Not supposed to do that. I'm surprised he would sell a broken and maybe dangerous revolver.

 

[Zaydok Allen]

That seems lame.

The shop owner says they had a gunsmith look it over and replace a bunch of things inside, and thats as good as it will get

That may mean that the smith is incompetent. Or it may mean it had the crap shot out of it with a lot of hot loads. But....

no bluing wear

would indicate otherwise. Unless it was used really heavily and then reblued.

I don't know man, I'm no smith, but that seems wrong and a bit fishy to me. The cylinder should not rotate like that, unless there is something about that model that I don't know. I'm guessing some more experienced chaps will chime in shortly, but I don't think Id buy that one.

If you do a quick search on Gunbroker.com, there are a lot of M36's out there. I think you could do better than the one you are looking at.

 

[sarge83]

I would pass on this one unless it comes at a very steep discount. You will require gunsmith work on this piece. In my neck of the woods I run across model 36's all the time ranging from fair to LNIB and the most I have seen them go for is $450 LNIB. Most go in the $275-$350 range depending on condition. I would pass on this critter.

 

[rcmodel]

they had a gunsmith look it over and replace a bunch of things inside, and thats as good as it will get

Well, theres your problem!

No good gunsmith would have simply gave up without fixing it.

It's screwed up.
Pass on it, unless you can buy it priced as a broken gun.

And roll the dice on what it will cost to fix it.

But your chance of coming out ahead is very slim at that price.

rc

 

[Old Fuff]

So, what's the likely problem here? The shop owner says they had a gunsmith look it over and replace a bunch of things inside, and that's as good as it will get.

The likely reason the cylinder isn't locking is because the ball on the cylinder stop (The little projection that sticks up into the bottom of the frame's cylinder window and is supposed to go up into the notches in the cylinder and lock a chamber into alignment with the bore) isn't coming up high enough, and they're could be a number of reasons for this.

But so far as you're concerned this shouldn't matter. What you should be worried about is how competent is the gunsmith, and exactly what did he replace and why? Given these serious questions I would pass on this particular revolver and look elsewhere for one that didn't have any warts.

Also keep in mind that if you return it to Smith & Wesson they won't fix it under warrantee, given the history you described. You would have to pay for everything, including shipping, parts and labor.

 

[BobWright]

At $399 that's about the going price for a good working revolver. As has been pointed out, the cylinder locking bolt is not engaging the cylinder notches. Either that part is broken, or the spring the raises it is not in place or jammed. Neither are too hard to correct if you're handy with the innards of a S&W revolver. If not, the a gunsmith is going to charge at least his minimum shop fee, around $50~$60, plus parts.

IF you think you can fix it yourself, then $300 could be a bargain. If not, its No-Go in my opinion.

Bob Wright

 

[aarondhgraham]

Model 36 rvolvers are as common as mud.

I wouldn't buy a problem gun,,,
Unless it was something hard to find.

Decent Model 36's are as common as mud,,,
You won't have to look very far to find another one.

Just my humble opinion.

Aarond

.

 

[Panzerschwein]

DANGER WILL ROBINSON! DANGER!

Don't let the guy make you into a sucker. There are other ways, brother.

There are other ways.

 

[rondog]

Um, yeah. Their "gunsmith" was just whatever shop flunky was handy that could be pointed at and called "our gunsmith". Chances are that S&W could fix it easily and reasonably, but there's a chance not. I'd buy it, but I'd offer $150. $200 max.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I paid $399 for a M36 a few years ago that had only 10 rounds through it. No turn line, not bluing missing and it was in the box with papers.

I would not buy that gun no matter how cheap and I for sure would not pay full Retail for a broken gun. Pass on it and find another!

 

[Twiki357]

$399 is on the high end of a normal price for a Model 36 in GOOD working condition. I would definitely pass on that one.

 

[Waveski]

The 36 Chief's Special is the best damned snub nose revolver ever made.

The one you are looking at is grossly overpriced given it's defective condition. The gun shop should not , in my opinion , even have the malfunctioning 36 in the retail case. The gunsmith in question is not to be trusted. Addendum - It may be that the "gunsmith" is being misrepresented by the seller of the defective revolver...

 

[OldBrownDog]

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I know the gun is waaaaay overpriced, but I thought if I could pick it up around $300 and fix it easily myself, it might be worth it. I guess not, oh well, no big loss. Like you all said, I can always find another M36, probably for better money.

The shop in question is known for having prices on the high end of reasonable, but they've got literal piles of new Colts on the shelves, so I stop in from time to time.

 

[Old Fuff]

but I thought if I could pick it up around $300 and fix it easily myself, it might be worth it.

You might have been able to fix it, and then again you might not. If you can't diagnose the problem yourself then it's usually best to pass. Given your description I can think of a number of reasons, but without the gun in hand I can't say if any of them are right or wrong. In other words, anything you get is pure speculation.

I know what I'm doing, and I'd never bet $300 + an speculation alone.

 

[Master Blaster]

Did the shop clerk point out the issue or did you discover it? A gun with a dangerous lock up condition should not be in the sale case. The store is not to be trusted. I would not do business with them ever.

 

[rondog]

Myself, I'd probably still buy it, but only if the price was right. As in CHEAP.

"Hey look, Jack, this gun is broken and unsafe, and you've stated your gunsmith can't fix it. I'll take it off your hands for $X, but only because I like to tinker and maybe I can fix it. Take it or leave it."

 

[Old Fuff]

Speaking from experience, my bet is that the dealer would tell you to walk. He would be aware that given a little time someone else would come in and pay his price. Also if you don't know exactly what you are doing, tinkering might well make it worse. I used to get paid sometimes to "un-tinker" someone else's work...

 

[Haywood]

Tell the Shop to send it to Smith & Weson and when it is Repaired you will think about it. If a Smith already looked at it he my be the problem.

 

[rondog]

My point was to get it as cheap as possible, then take it to someone who DOES know what they're doing. Not necessarily try yourself, just tell them that. It's probably something minor and simple to fix, just needs the right eyes and hands on it.

 

[just for fun]

Hey guys, I'm just hoping some of the revolver gurus here can give me some advice on a Model 36 I've had my eye on at a local shop.

The revolver is in really nice shape. Locks up very tight, no bluing wear, rust, etc.

However.... when the hammer and trigger are in their normal "resting" position, the cylinder can be hand rotated to the RIGHT, or clockwise direction. There is a click or slight hang up at each notch in the cylinder, so it does not spin freely. Every trigger pull results in the cylinder rotating correctly to the left (CCW), and the cylinder cannot be rotated by hand in that direction.

The shop owner says they had a gunsmith look it over and replace a bunch of things inside, and thats as good as it will get . It definitely needs a trip back to S&W or a competent 'smith, right?

Personally, I like the thing, and think it'd go good with my current K and N frame S&W's. It's priced at $399 but I've been considering offering $300 cash OTD. Reasonable, given that it'll definitely need work?

Bought mine new in 68 and it never has acted as you described. As much as I have enjoyed mine, I must recommend that you pass on that model 36. May I also suggest you find another LGS! That guy will sell anything to make a buck.

 

[rs7]

Ball on the cylinder stop? Gunsmith? Really? Oh well. Read a book. It's a problem with the cylinder stop/ spring / window. Probably some crud. That's about it.
Still can't find the ball on any of my cylinder stops. I'll keep looking. Carry on.

 

[OldBrownDog]

Just an update - found a NIB Model 637 at another local shop - it has the dang lock, but otherwise very nice. I bought it for $400 + tax. An older M36 to go with my other older S&W's would've been nice, but I'm pleased with this 637. Now to go shoot it.

 

[Old Fuff]

Still can't find the ball on any of my cylinder stops. I'll keep looking. Carry on.

Maybe you need to read the book...

The "ball" on a cylinder lock is what sticks up into the frame's cylinder window and goes into the slots in the cylinder to lock it when a chamber is aligned with the bore.

It got the name because of the way it's rounded when you look at it in profile from the side.

 

[Old Fuff]

Just an update - found a NIB Model 637 at another local shop - it has the dang lock, but otherwise very nice. I bought it for $400 + tax

And in addition, in the unlikely event that something goes wrong you can get it fixed by someone who knows what they are doing.