looking for good hand or bench priming tool

[YBOT]

I went through a number of primer trials, on the press, above the press, Hornady Hand Primer...I either produced too many high primers, or I crushed them...just couldn’t get a handle on proper technique or feel.

This led me to the Frankford Arsenal Hand Primer...and I’ll never go back to any other method. Custom seating depth, easy loading/feeding, and everything comes included...tray, small and large feeds, and custom shell holders for every caliber...certainly everything that I load. Frequently out of stock, but I got the best price at Cabela’s...yep, the oft maligned and hated Cabela’s. Free shipping was included.

Thanks mark6754. Decided my big fingers and the little pocket on the ram primer was going to drive me around the bend for speed or I'd spend a good deal of time searching for those lost little puppy's. Now have the Frankford Arsenal Perfect Seat Hand Prime on the way. Joining this group has been great even though I seem to be stuck in up grade mode now.

 

[Skgreen]

Never had any real problems with the RCBS hand priming unit itself, but the tray lid attachment (friction fit) got pretty loose.

Hands would get tired,,,

Fortunately, I've had very few problems with my LNL AP priming system, and 'many thousands' of primers have been set with it since I last used the RCBS hand tool.

Still interesting to hear from folks who like to do things differently from yourself. What tools they like/dislike, and why.

 

[enine]

I use the Lee Hand press with the prime die. It might not be as fast as a dedicated primer but I also use it to de-prime so one tool for both jobs.

 

[markr6754]

I use the Lee Hand press with the prime die. It might not be as fast as a dedicated primer but I also use it to de-prime so one tool for both jobs.

I bought one of these Lee Hand Presses early in the game before I’d mounted my Hornady LNL Classic. I use it a lot...recently decapped and resized 1500 40 S&W cases and nearly 2000 380ACP cases while sitting in my recliner watching TV. It was fast, fairly clean...the ram stores over 100 spent primers and debris. However, after several days of this I decided I’ll buy cleaned and resized brass next time for just a few bucks more. I find it a lot harder to do 9mm, so I just decap, and then resize while reloading. I’ve tried the prime die mounted in my bench press...sadly, I’d spent lots on other solutions before I discovered this part still in the LHP box.

 

[cw308]

I like the RCBS Ram primer attaches the the top of the person like a die , can feel the primer bottom . If you uniform your pockets you can set the primer die height and that's it . Perfect seat every time.

 

[cfullgraf]

I did that with the Lee round hand held primers. One set up for each large and small.

I also started keeping two of the Lee round tray priming tools on hand set up for each size. In part it was to have spare parts on hand as I was wearing one out about once a year. The early 1980's Lee priming tools were not as robust as they later became in the 1990s and early 2000's.

Trouble was, I'd break the tool on a Sunday afternoon when all the stores were closed (remember the Blue Laws?). Without spares on hand, I'd be out of business until I could get to a gun store a few days later.

The Lee priming tools were so inexpensive, it was easier to buy the entire tool than contact Lee for individual parts. There was a time before the internet.

Since the round tray priming tool has been discontinued, I've moved to RCBS priming tools and still keep two on hand. Last January, one of them broke and I was able to keep going with parts from the other. RCBS replaced the broken part but I would have been out of business for a week or so.

 

[GW Staar]

.............
For large batches of priming, I use an RCBS APS bench priming tool but I use modified shell holders instead of using the plastic sleeve RCBS provides. See photo.
I've brazed bronze into the shell holder and machined it out. While I have the machine tools to do this easily, it could be done with a drill press and hand tools.
The modification can be done with JB Weld but may need to be replaced periodically.....................

I remember your post when you described this once before......and a few months later I bought the APS bench priming tool.......Really got to say I like it better than any other way to prime, but I've worn out my plastic sleeves already....and I don't know how to braze bronze like you did (yet). Just need to rattle my cage and order some more plastic ones.....or better, try your method using a drill press.

Gotta learn how to braze though. I'm assuming that means you buy dedicated shell holders for the priming tool's use? Then with brazing rod and my gas welding torch, and a centering jig for the drill press would be needed, so if I use a bit that fits the stock hole, run the chucked bit through a shellholder and build a jig around it.....that sound feasible? The right tools would be easier.....just don't have them.....I'm a wood worker, not a metal wizard even if I do have an old gas welder and a drill press.

 

[cfullgraf]

I remember your post when you described this once before......and a few months later I bought the APS bench priming tool.......Really got to say I like it better than any other way to prime, but I've worn out my plastic sleeves already....and I don't know how to braze bronze like you did (yet). Just need to rattle my cage and order some more plastic ones.....or try your method using a drill press. Gotta learn how to braze though. I'm assuming that means you buy dedicated shell holders for the priming tool's use? Brazing rod and welder's torch, right? Centering jig for the drill press needed, right? The right tools would be easier.....just don't have them.....I'm a wood worker, not a metal wizard.

Yes, the shell holders will be dedicated to the priming tool and the primer size.

I bought some 1/4" diameter bronze or brass rod which fits nicely in the hole in the shell holder. I tig brazed the rod into the shell holder filling the back of the shell holder with braze material to fill the cone section. Then, I used a 1/4" dia end mill in the lathe tail stock to clean up the top side of the shell holder/bronze insert. The back side, I'd turn the bronzed filler to be even with the sides of the shell holder. The appropriate hole would be drilled through the shell holder, the back side "funnel" would be cut with a 90 degree or so counter sink. Smooth out the rough edges.

On a lathe, this is easy.

On a drill press, you have to set up the vice to hold the shell holder in advance of filling the hole so that after the hole is filled you can set the shell holder back into position to be centered on the drill bit. Some of the smoothing and rough material removing can be done by hand with files and emory cloth.

JB Weld can be used in place of the bronze but I do not know how long it will last and need to be replaced. JB Weld does not need any welding equipment to install. Clean/degrease the shell holder, mix the JB Weld and apply.

My first test was done with JB Weld to test out the concept. I ran a 1000 or so primers through the JB Weld test shell holder and there was still lots of life left in the JB Weld. But, you can see the primer and tool wearing away the JB Weld. It may get to a point where wear is minimal and it will last a looooog time before it needs to be replaced.

The same finishing procedures as stated above apply but the JB Weld can be worked with hand tools more easily than bronze and can be installed without any tools. Just do not get over zealous applying the JB Weld so that there is not as much to remove. The main thing is to make sure the through hole is as centered as possible in the shell holder. The rest of the finishing does not need to be as precise.

In the previous thread, I mentioned the size drills that I used for large and small primers.

Hope this makes sense.

 

[cfullgraf]

I'm a wood worker, not a metal wizard even if I do have an old gas welder and a drill press.

An acetylene torch could be used to braze the material in. The brass or bronze rod is only brazed from the back of the shell holder. Fill the "funnel" section of the shell holder with braze material. Most of it will be removed with the countersink later. Do not do any brazing from front of the shell holder. It will make cleaning it up more difficult.

Make one or two with JB Weld first. Among other things, if it does not work out, it can be more easily removed and you can try again.

You need some kind of rigging so that you can get the shell holder centered under the drill head after filling the hole in the shell holder. One idea follows...

You will need a drill press vice with some kind of "V" slot or notch cut in the jaws that will hold the shell holder in the same place. Using a 1/4" rod chucked in the drill and passing through the shell holder, you can set the vice up so that you can remove the shell holder and then replace it later for drilling. The vice needs to be bolted down to the drill press table and the table locked in place.

With your wood working skills, you may be able to come up with a hard wood jig to hold the shell holder for drilling.

Once the center hole is drilled for the correct primer size, any other drilling operation, like countersinking the "funnel" in the back of the shell holder can be indexed off that hole.

 

[GW Staar]

Thanks for the reply & instructions.....I went back in the search engine looking for the drill sizes.....took me an hour to find the thread...so I'm quoting you from it to help others who might benefit.

FYI, for anyone who is interested, I use a #13 drill for small primers, a #2 drill for large primers and a 90 degree countersink for the back side of the shell holder.

So far these have worked well for me but other drill sizes in these ranges may work well as well. Of course, too small will bind up the primer when going through and too large may allow the primer to get too far off center to seat properly.

I love THR's new quote feature! Hit "+Quote" in the old thread, and it works in this new one.....cool. Okay I'm done taking up space in this thread....sorry.

 

[rskent]

I very much would prefer priming on my Hornady Lock-N-Load Classic. But...my current bench is a converted Black & Decker Workmate. For nearly every function, this works perfectly for my need....except when it comes to on the press priming. Priming is up stroke on the L-N-L, which results in too much flexing of the table, and consequently, too many high primers. Now that I am 8 months into this experiment I am looking forward to a new, fixed surface loading bench.

If you are not using a case feeder. you can use the mounting holes in the press to mount a handle above the press so you can pull with your left hand (on said handle) and push with your right hand. This isometric action seats primers very well.

 

[rskent]

Love my Rcbs bench primer.

I got to try one out today. I gotta say, it works pretty slick. I do think the handle could be a bit longer.

 

[Walkalong]

it's not really necessary as long as you just seat the primer firmly til it stops at the bottom. don't crush it. if you don't seat it flush, a variable amount of energy from the firing pin will be expended finishing the job of seating the primer and you'll get inconsistent ignition.

Agreed. I used to use a Sinclair priming tool for 6 PPC. It was easy to adjust for your brass's primer pocket depth and a joy to use, but, in all honesty, it was overkill. As taliv noted, just make sure they hit bottom.

 

[YBOT]

Well, the Frankford Arsenal Perfect Seat Hand Primer arrived and I got to set it up and run my first test today. I'm impressed with the quality of mfg., the simplicity of setting the amount of depth you want the primer seating to be and the ease of operation. A good number of shell holders were included. Anyway, this thing is a beauty in my opinion and a real keeper.

Want to thank mark6754 again for sharing the existence of this Frankford Arsenal reloading tool.

The gauge resting on the loading block is 0.002" on one end and 0.005" on the other. It is a handy item and makes primer depth checking very quick. Didn't want anyone to think it came with the hand primer. The black item is a case checker and also was not part of the Frankford Arsenal Perfect Seat Hand Primer kit.

 

[Varminterror]

Bald Eagle Adjustable Bench Primer, with a Lee Safety Prime set up to feed it.