Looking for guidance on new rifle

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I think I will stay with 22 cal since I don't have one yet. I'm just wondering if there is a reason I should stay with 223 over a 22-250, other than barrel life obviously.
 
Cost of ammos lower, if your loading than cases and powder are cheaper. If you want to shoot heavy bullets make sure the .22-250s twist is fast enough.

Other than that, i would personally go for the .22-250.
 
Are there any factory 22-250 guns in anything faster than a 12 twist? I read that savage does, but couldn't find any. The 700's appear to all be 12s too.
 
MCFLYFYTER said:
Are there any factory 22-250 guns in anything faster than a 12 twist? I read that savage does, but couldn't find any. The 700's appear to all be 12s too.
Click to expand...
Funny this should pop up. I'm a diehard overbore fan, I wanted to bring this cartridge up before but it didn't seem to be on the table. My friend and I actually just went through all this. Savage DOES make a 1:9 twist but I believe it's a target gun. We arrived at a slightly different perspective, and it will STILL keep you under your budget....mostly....
Buy a used up savage 10/11/16 whatever in whatever chambering you can find. I just found a 110 .270 for $250 that will serve the purpose we need. You might pay up to $350, if it's an axis, make sure it's an axis 2, the trigger will treat you better. He wants the Boyd's at-one stock=$200 more but you don't NEED to change the stock right away. Your first barrel doesn't need to be a shilen and Shaw makes a barrel that gets you a LOT of bang for your buck=$186 in 1:8/1:9 heavy sporter/#4/light varmint contour. Barrel wrench. Headspace go and no go gauges and you're cooking. Or take it to a Smith.
 
Thats the route id go i think. I have to tools to change savage barrels, so im kinda always on the look out for cheap savage actions.

Infact if i can find a cheap 10, ill probably be trying the fast twist .22-250 or the AI variant...gotta check with ptg if i can use my .250ai guage on it.....horseys fault, always blame horsey.......
 
LoonWulf said:
Thats the route id go i think. I have to tools to change savage barrels, so im kinda always on the look out for cheap savage actions.

Infact if i can find a cheap 10, ill probably be trying the fast twist .22-250 or the AI variant...gotta check with ptg if i can use my .250ai guage on it.....horseys fault, always blame horsey.......
Click to expand...
Yes always thank horsey.....;) course if someone REALLY wanted to push it.... and was already set with a .250ai...... and didn't mind a lil extra wear.........they might make a heckuva axis/hog/goat slaying .22-250 AI......ermmm not just Hawaiian game cuz that wasn't targeted at any one person in particular....
 
After a day of searching, the best I found was a savage 10t barreled action in 6.5 creedmoor. I need to do more research on stocks before I can make a decision on the action, but i will most likely run with a savage.
 
MCFLYFYTER said:
After a day of searching, the best I found was a savage 10t barreled action in 6.5 creedmoor. I need to do more research on stocks before I can make a decision on the action, but i will most likely run with a savage.
Click to expand...
You can get TONS of savage configured stocks, short of an ar, I believe they're the best Lego out there, and since I'm not personally an ar guy, for me, they ARE the best Lego gun out there. For your purposes, I wouldn't spend a bunch, as you evolve you may change your style, and with the savage, you can swap up to a heavier cartridge barrel to hunt with if you decide too. You'll have to stay within limits though, for example, you won't put a .25-06 barrel on a model 10(short action) but you CAN put a .22-250 on a model 110(long action). You might like to get super comfortable behind an adjustable stock to practice with:
http://www.atonegunstocks.com/
Or a heavy varmint stock:
http://www.boydsgunstocks.com/FindAStock?Make=43&Model=A22&Action=05&Shape=1G
and then for hunting, slap on another style too.
 
horsey300 said:
You can get TONS of savage configured stocks, short of an ar, I believe they're the best Lego out there, and since I'm not personally an ar guy, for me, they ARE the best Lego gun out there. For your purposes, I wouldn't spend a bunch, as you evolve you may change your style, and with the savage, you can swap up to a heavier cartridge barrel to hunt with if you decide too. You'll have to stay within limits though, for example, you won't put a .25-06 barrel on a model 10(short action) but you CAN put a .22-250 on a model 110(long action). You might like to get super comfortable behind an adjustable stock to practice with:
http://www.atonegunstocks.com/
Or a heavy varmint stock:
http://www.boydsgunstocks.com/FindAStock?Make=43&Model=A22&Action=05&Shape=1G
and then for hunting, slap on another style too.
Click to expand...
When I bought my 111, I was disappointed when none of the stocks I wanted were available for it. I guess things have changed a little, but I still want to know what I'm going to build before I start buying parts.

That at one looks amazing for the price. Looks like this might be an interesting build
 
Enables...enablement...enab....ah what ever. I almost bid on that model 10.

Those options suggested are actually pretty close to what i was thinking would be a good build.
 
No one rifle will do all things well.

The guns that I have that are really fun to shoot are an old bolt action 30-30 that usually gets fed GC cast bullets at 1900 FPS ($.20 per round), and a 357 lever action that usually gets fed 122 grain cast Cowboy Action loads ($.08 per round). I guess a semi-auto 5.56 comes in third ($.15 per round). Those are cheap and fun.

30-06, 7x57, 6.5x55, 308, and 243 work for a living.

The 243 gets a bum rap for wounding game. I think that happens a lot because people shoot light cup and core bullets at speeds that are too high for the bullet construction. A 100 grain Partition at 2950 FPS is an excellent choice.
 
Stay with the .243.
Plenty of supplies and will do ANYTHING you want to do in the lower 48..

Anything from a 55gr screamer @ 4100fps to 110gr for the big stuff.

I have a butt load of everything and if I had to choose one, besides a .22rf, I would keep my
.243's.
 
LoonWulf said:
Enables...enablement...enab....ah what ever. I almost bid on that model 10.

Those options suggested are actually pretty close to what i was thinking would be a good build.
Click to expand...
I almost wanted to bid too, but as we've discussed, the gun funds are spoken for for other builds right now....
 
Big7 said:
Stay with the .243.
Plenty of supplies and will do ANYTHING you want to do in the lower 48..

Anything from a 55gr screamer @ 4100fps to 110gr for the big stuff.

I have a butt load of everything and if I had to choose one, besides a .22rf, I would keep my
.243's.
Click to expand...
I personally wouldn't willingly shoot an elk or moose with a 243, but I agree that the 243 is very versatile.
 
denton said:
No one rifle will do all things well.

The guns that I have that are really fun to shoot are an old bolt action 30-30 that usually gets fed GC cast bullets at 1900 FPS ($.20 per round), and a 357 lever action that usually gets fed 122 grain cast Cowboy Action loads ($.08 per round). I guess a semi-auto 5.56 comes in third ($.15 per round). Those are cheap and fun.

30-06, 7x57, 6.5x55, 308, and 243 work for a living.

The 243 gets a bum rap for wounding game. I think that happens a lot because people shoot light cup and core bullets at speeds that are too high for the bullet construction. A 100 grain Partition at 2950 FPS is an excellent choice.
Click to expand...

Dang right. I would LOVE to see something I could not kill with a 100gr or a 110gr .243.

It's a double. Screamer for vermin, heck on wheels for medium/big game.
Extreme range. I have two that will shoot 800 yds easy. 1000yds if I'm on a blast.

And... If you don't load (and I do), you can get stuck in po-dunk "wherever" and still find ammo.

Bout' on par with a 6MM Swedish.. Difference in weight, 110gr and 130gr ain't much..
 
I am settled on 223 now, have been for a few days. I have never reloaded 223, and trying to figure out a plan. I hate case prep more than most anything, so I want to reduce that to a minimum.

As I understand it, the x die does a good job of not having to trim brass after the initial prep. My 2 questions are;
If only neck sizing, will I have to trim brass?
Would a 223ai make for any less trimming or case prep after forming compared to 223?
 
MCFLYFYTER said:
I am settled on 223 now, have been for a few days. I have never reloaded 223, and trying to figure out a plan. I hate case prep more than most anything, so I want to reduce that to a minimum.

As I understand it, the x die does a good job of not having to trim brass after the initial prep. My 2 questions are;
If only neck sizing, will I have to trim brass?
Would a 223ai make for any less trimming or case prep after forming compared to 223?
Click to expand...
I can't speak to the AI but I neck size and don't trim, eventually you'll have to FL size and probably trim then, but until then, it's painless. If you're neck sizing, I recommend the collet. It's truly a life saver and is awesome for consistent neck tension. No lube necessary, but I recommend a dry lube graphite fine powder and a few BBS. Put a splash of powder on the BBS in a small container (I use a bulk kool-aid lid), and stir the case neck through the powdered BBS, one out of every 5 works good, and it will help reduce the wear and tear on your die.
 
MCFLYFYTER said:
I am settled on 223 now, have been for a few days. I have never reloaded 223, and trying to figure out a plan. I hate case prep more than most anything, so I want to reduce that to a minimum.

As I understand it, the x die does a good job of not having to trim brass after the initial prep. My 2 questions are;
If only neck sizing, will I have to trim brass?
Would a 223ai make for any less trimming or case prep after forming compared to 223?
Click to expand...

I shot a 223AI and I used Redding type s neck bushing die and I didn't run anything in the neck. I used a Redding body die for sizing..

I've never used the collet die and I know some that use it and they like it.

I'm now back to standard 223 and I'm still using bushing dies so nothing has changed.
 
MCFLYFYTER said:
I am settled on 223 now, have been for a few days. I have never reloaded 223, and trying to figure out a plan. I hate case prep more than most anything, so I want to reduce that to a minimum.

As I understand it, the x die does a good job of not having to trim brass after the initial prep. My 2 questions are;
If only neck sizing, will I have to trim brass?
Would a 223ai make for any less trimming or case prep after forming compared to 223?
Click to expand...
What part of case prep do you hate I did too until I got this http://www.cabelas.com/product/shoo.../549388080/lyman-case-prep-xpress/1172294.uts
 
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