looking for more cost savings 45 acp loads

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BigBore45

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So this is my current load figures:

Cast 228gr. Lee RN. Cast and coated at $23.50 per 500---.05 per bullet

Mixed ranges brass at $40 per 500----- divided by 8 reloads-----$.01 per brass case

Powder tite group $20 per lb------4.8 gr per round-----$.01 per round

Primers ginex or S&B ---$20 per 1k----$.02 per round.

Total of $.09 per round or $90.71 per 1000 rounds.

See anywhere I can save more? Was thinking of going to 185-200 grain bullet and trying to get down to $.04 cents a bullet at current local lead prices.

I do get free lead and brass most of the time but you never know, using this for a baseline.
 
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$91.00 per 1000 is very, very reasonable/cheap!

I don't check much anymore, but the last time I did, a few years back, I was at $125/$130 using 6 reloads per case.
 
I get more than eight reloads out of a case. In fact, I've never had to throw one away except for a couple that got torn up during ejection. So, there's a few more pennies for your calculations.
 
You could switch to the Lee 200gr SWC but 28gr difference wouldn't be offset for a while after paying $25 for the mold. I've resurrected my 160gr RF and somehow managed to make it feed in my CZ...mostly. That stubby little thing is surprisingly accurate.
 
I get more than eight reloads out of a case. In fact, I've never had to throw one away except for a couple that got torn up during ejection. So, there's a few more pennies for your calculations.
I some what agree however loss at the range and having to flare a bit more for lead bullets I concluded that 8 is a far evaluation
 
You could switch to the Lee 200gr SWC but 28gr difference wouldn't be offset for a while after paying $25 for the mold. I've resurrected my 160gr RF and somehow managed to make it feed in my CZ...mostly. That stubby little thing is surprisingly accurate.
Most of my 45 acp guns do not have adjustable sights, what was the impact difference when going from 230 to the 160?
 
I get more than eight reloads out of a case. In fact, I've never had to throw one away except for a couple that got torn up during ejection. So, there's a few more pennies for your calculations.

I agree with this, I never toss out a case and have yet to split a 45 ACP. The only loss is maybe a very small percentage at the range.

I have some TZZ/IMI brass that has been loaded untold number of times.

But for your calculations you are talking a few pennies.

What about production costs?

Propane/gas for melting lead

Electric if used

Amortize the cost basis of molds, dies and sizers and the all important

assuming labor costs are FREE

misc shop fees!:)
 
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I use that same bullet from a 6 cavity mold but I don’t coat them, just size and lube the old fashioned way. I get a little leading in the first inch of barrel, but no real problem. $0.04 per bullet.
 
I'll go out on a limb and suggest trying to reuse your primers, i would never recommend it but i've heard say it can be done. :eek:
 
Lighter bullet say maybe 200gr, maybe some tiny savings on powder possible, but probably not worth messing with..
 
Tite wad does well in 45 ACP. I think hodgdon still has data up for it. Might cut your powder consumption by a bit. max charge is about 3g at 750 FPS with 230 cast.

I use lots of it for target loads in 38sp, usually around 2g per 105g cast wad cutter.

Personally I would just get lighter bullets if available. Should cut cost a bit there. Normal lubed cast bullet cheaper than powder coated? May be able to save a bit there.

WHAT ARE YOUR TARGETS? Do you have any way to reclaim your lead? Even steel targets let you get back about half if you pick it up (and arent shooting screaming velocities). I shoot into bullet traps a lot and cast my own bullets. Saves a ton of money there. Best idea was to let other people shoot into my berm... you know being a nice guy and all lol, then I get their lead too.

Here is how I shoot cheap 38s. Revolver rules apply, so my powder charges don't have to cycle anything. Usually start with reclaimed lead from the range, cast it into 105 SWC. For lube I use Johnsons paste wax. Just heat it up and and roll warm bullets around in pickle jar with it. Presto, good enough for what Im doing.

Just about 2.3g of tite wad and cheap primer to charge the case.

My cases last forever shooting this way... I am over 40 loadings on some. They do occasionally get annealed. For my revolver I have the bullets sized so I just barely have to bell the case, and can get by with just seating the bullet and crimping lightly most of the time. YMMV if your chamber or throats are different.

That is about as cheap as I can go really, especially when I am shooting other people's lead lol. No other fat to trim.
 
Try picking up some Nobel Vectan AS powder. It can be had for about $16.50 on line (plus shipping), or about $19 in store, for 1.1 pounds (.5 kilo). Very similar to Red Dot or Bullseye in performance, burns really clean for me. Might drop your cost a tad.
 
BB45, if you're looking to shoot any cheaper than you already are, I think you're just gonna have to shoot slower. ;)
 
you say you get free lead? well that cuts your 9 cent per round cost down to less than half. I'd say your best bet at keeping the cost low would be to find more of that free lead. your powder and primers cant get any cheaper. I made a point of stocking up on dirt cheap/free lead last year, have nearly a ton(literally) of ready to cast ingots out in the garage. That should keep me in the lead for the next 5+ years. If I have difficulty finding more lead years from now, I will make an effort to setup a good bullet trap at my little personal range. for now all my fired bullets are sitting 6"-2' inside a hill of dirt. It shouldn't be too hard to find them again if my lead sources run dry.
 
I pick up brass at matches so its free, maybe even saves money because I don't own a gym membership or any workout equipment.

Also pick up lead in the berms after matches or rains and have a metal bullet trap at home. All you have to buy at that point is primers and powder.

FWIW I have 45 acp brass that has been reloaded and fired so many times that you can't read the headstamp any longer. Only reason I would only load one 8 times is if I lost it.

Last ones I loaded were $33.60/1000.

$20.75 for the primers
$9 worth of powder
$3.85 worth of hi-tek coating.
 
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Well I'm getting ready for a primer and powder order. Might try a lb of titewad.

I do get lead for free at the present time. Just using local lead prices for a base line, thinking of buying 500 lbs or so of WW ingots, just in case I ever lost my free supply of lead.

I might start picking up brass at a local range that people leave there. Always been weird about it, as if I leave brass at the range it's because they are a bad batch like neck splits, loose primer pockets, ect.
 
Reload boxer primed steel cases. They are free because nobody wants them. I've been doing it for years and the cases have held up just fine.
 
i had reloaded a hand full of steel case ammo. i am worried about it hurting my carbide dies??? does it matter as much as i think it does?
 
Not at all. The relatively soft steel cartridge casings are no match for the hardened high carbon steel or the really hard carbide dies. Doubt they will be a problem at all. I would be more worried about random dirt and sand than what material the casings were made of.;)

My big issue is that the steel casings will surface rust in short order if not kept sealed tight against moisture after the surface treatment is polished off.
 
Just do what the gubment does, change your numbers & formulas! Heck, you can arrange so they're paying YOU to reload your own ammo! :)

Seriously, I think lighter bullets would be the next move, in addition to a cheaper powder. If you can find an 8# jug of Alliant Promo powder, that'd drop the cost a bit!! Vectan also helps, as they're sold in 1.1lb jugs, so the cost/pound drops.
 
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