At approximately what round count would you cut off something in the price range of the RIA? Total for the life of the gun, not including major repair work/rebuild/etc. When you say 300 per year, what are you figuring for the life of the gun?
So I guess the question would be why are you on a thread where the OP is looking for a "Low cost, US made 1911?". The OP want's a 1911. We get that you don't. What is it you have to offer to this thread?Warp wrote,
BTW: I guess I am bias because I don't want a 1911 trigger. I don't know for what purpose these $800-$1,200 1911s are being purchased, but I buy my handguns for defensive use...and for defensive use I don't want a single action trigger. Or a manual safety.
The point is the S&W N-Frame revolvers, made of steel, and size equivalent to S&W's 1911 are priced in the same ball park as the S&W 1911's. Your GP100 is made by a different maker and the 642 is a significantly smaller gun.Warp wrote,
My GP100 sure isn't polymer, nor is my 642, and they sure as heck weren't $800-$1,200. I guess that's a revolver vs semi auto thing there?
I believe you are incorrect. What is your source for that information? The Auto Ordnance 1911's are from Worcester, MA.
Take a look at the link I provided earlier.MachIVshooter wrote,
The dust cover of one I looked at awhile back. Maybe that's changed in more recent years (this was about 2006/7). I'll search out the answer.
I understood the Pinto reference immediately and it's a good example of how lower end 1911s are built...I may have to steal it to use. I feel the same way about my 1999 MB ML-350, it was built to a price point and you have to understand it going in.You have misread what I have posted. It is not that they are Pintos it is that they are built with the Pinto mentality. The Pinto was built to hit a price point. As a result they cut corners. They knew it was defective from the start but ran the #s and determined only a certain number will fail and that to pay the lawsuits would be more cost effective.
The same is true for the lower end 1911s. They know that a certain number will fail under normal use say 10,000 rounds but at the same time they know that the majority of them will never see 2,500 rounds. So they built them to that spec and deal with the rest under warranty.
It is not that they "suck" it is that they are what they are.
Since the Phillipines are a U.S. Territory, does that qualify as made in the U.S. to the OP?
There is an unusual sweet spot for value at $1200-$1500.
I don't think the OP is that interested, his concerns and interest have clearly been met by explanation of the levels of 1911 function already laid out...I think the RIA line is a good place to test the 1911 waters.how about naming some names, maybe we can get the OP to spend more
and for my sake any without MIM and plastic?
how about naming some names, maybe we can get the OP to spend more
and for my sake any without MIM and plastic?
Did you even read they thread?sleepyone said:I applaud you on your decision to buy only USA made by a USA owned company.
Did you even read they thread?
Wow thanks for all the help, everybody.
If I had to sum it up I would say that Skylerbone knows exactly what I am trying to accomplish. I have never even shot a 1911 before and I want to make sure they are what I am looking for before I drop over $1000 bucks on one.
I think I am going to have to go with the RIA. I would consider the Ruger but I am not a huge fan of SS pistols, from a looks perspective. I can't believe they only make it in stainless. The only reason I am going RIA is that between the two that I felt meet my "demo unit" price point (the other being the Spartan) the Rock Island is cheaper...
They actually have 2 RIA 1911s at my LGS for $409 each.
You guys are awesome!