Lyman .50 Trade rifle

[kerreckt]

I made the leap yesterday and bought a Lyman .50 Trade rifle. 1/48 twist, I believe. I have a old Lyman .490 mould,
3lbs of 3F and the desire to try something different. I say different because I have been shooting and reloading for 40+ years. I respectfully, ask anyone out there to share what they wish about this rifle, loads, and advice in general about black powder rifles. I am familiar with the handling of very volatile substances and the handling of firearms. Thanks for any input.

 

[witchhunter]

You have just ventured into the dark side of shooting. There is much voodoo. I am just entering the black powder cartridge darkness and it is unbelievable how much there is to learn. If you are not into the traditional usage, there are lots of powder substitutes and sabots that seem to work well, but if you go to primitive techniques, be prepared to be overwhelmed. there will be some ML guys on here soon to help you out. Have fun, and good luck.

 

[kerreckt]

I will cast all my projectiles. I already cast most all my smokeless projectiles. I intend to go primitive i.e only blackpowder no substitutes and only lead, no sabots and such. I want to keep it like it was in 1870, or so.

 

[Steel Horse Rider]

Better start collecting caps...... and more space to store BP guns because they tend to multiply on you. Getting a routine for cleaning that doesn't take much time is your next goal for shooting. I made a trough from a section of plastic rain gutter with caps on both ends. Fill the trough with hot soapy water, (I use Dawn dish soap) remove the nipple, pop the barrel off of the stock and drop it in the trough to soak a few minutes. I take an appropriately sized bore mop and swab the barrel with the breech end submerged until everything is shiny when you shine a light down the open end. I then blow it out both ways with compressed air, wipe the outside dry, then spray inside and out with WD40 to absorb any stray moisture. Wipe it down again and blow the inside of the barrel both ways with the compressed air. I swab a couple of patches on a jag to dry things on the inside, and then spray a good blast of Hornady dry cleaner and lube followed by another swab with a clean patch and jag followed by several swabs with a patch saturated with Bore Butter. It sounds lengthy but is almost as fast to do as it was for me to type. I have yet to experience any corrosion or carbon adhesions using this method. The hot water helps the barrel to dry rapidly after you bring it out of the bath, the hotter the better. This setup works well with multiple guns as you can process them as a group at each station. I use a wet rag dipped in the soapy water to clean the nipples, locks, and stock area around the nipple (or flash hole if I am shooting my flinter's) and then give them a good coating of CLP. I am sure others will post their methods but this has worked well for me over the years.

 

[Ian83]

A note on casting your projectiles- Clean the lead first. Most lead will have tin and/or antimony, as in the case of wheel weights, fishing sinkers, even lead from modern ammo. When you first melt these down the metals the lead is alloyed with will rise to the top. Let the lead harden with this layer on top and then scrape or sand it off. What you will have left is an ingot of pure lead that will be soft enough to move freely through the barrel. Melt this down and put it into your bullet mould.

 

[kerreckt]

Once, it is an alloy mixed with tin/antimony, it will not separate in the way you describe. What rises to the top in my pot is the trash from the melt down. I take a spoon with a hole in it and scoop this stuff out. I don't know of any way of isolating just the lead once alloyed. I am sure someone out there does.

 

[rodwha]

I have the Lyman Deerstalker with the same twist. I love this rifle!

Though I mostly intend to shoot PRB I found that it really loves the 320 grn Lee REAL if I use a felt wad. I bought a few just to try. The first was without a wad and at 50 yds it was about a foot left, half a foot low, and it had keyholed. With a wad the next two were just under the bull and nearly touching. I bought a mold after that!

I used WD-40 at first. It worked I guess. Ballistol is much better though. It mixes with water, though it's an oil, and leaves only the oil after the water evaporates. It's also good for wood and leather. It's not great as a long term protectorant though. I reapply it if I haven't shot it in several months, though I'm not certain it's necessary.

I'm thinking about getting two Trade Rifle barrels for it. One to top with a Malcolm style scope for hunting fields and such, and one to bore to 28 ga. I'd like to have it jug choked but can't find anyone who can do a small bore. I'd also like other barrels making it a handy swap barrel rifle like a T/C Contender.

 

[tallpaul]

you have a perfectly well executed rifle. Lyman sells some of the better mass produced BP guns. Should be fun and it is not as hard as you may think!

 

[4v50 Gary]

A word about cap storage. We have some very old caps here at Whittington Center and they are used to train the kids in muzzle loading. It's frustrating for the kids to squeeze the trigger and nothing happens. The caps here are old. I wouldn't store too many at any given time.

 

[bothenook]

I really like this rifle. I shoot 490 ball, mattress ticking patches lubed with a 1:5 to 1:8 mix of ballistol and water. shooting at 50 yards, a 50 gr load of FFFg is just what the doctor ordered. It's not unusual to hit consistently in the 9 ring, and a lot of them in the 10 ring off hand on my hind two feet.

 

[Iggy]

Lymans are the best rifles you can buy unless you go custom.

You got a good one.

Won't be long before you're looking for buckskins and a Tipi..

Last two riders on the right are Itchy and I.
How Itchy got her name
http://www.talesfromthehighlonesome.net/itchysname.html