hornblower
Member
Speedloader for MP 340
I use the HKS speedloader and they work very well, but they are tight.
I use the HKS speedloader and they work very well, but they are tight.
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M&p 340
- Thread starter DAdams
- Start date
- Status
glad you like your HKS speedloader, because mine sucks.
tolerances are too tight for my 340PD and 337PD. yes it is faster than loading by hand, but it fits too tight for me.
been needing to buy the flat speedstrips, but no one local stocks em.
oh well.. looks like I've got to order them
tolerances are too tight for my 340PD and 337PD. yes it is faster than loading by hand, but it fits too tight for me.
been needing to buy the flat speedstrips, but no one local stocks em.
oh well.. looks like I've got to order them
hornblower
Member
HKS Speedloader
"glad you like your HKS speedloader, because mine sucks.
tolerances are too tight for my 340PD and 337PD. yes it is faster than loading by hand, but it fits too tight for me.
been needing to buy the flat speedstrips, but no one local stocks em.
oh well.. looks like I've got to order them"
The HKS Speedloaders are tight, and I have Crimson Trace Grips.
But, they do work and are faster than speed strips.
However, I don't carry the HSK Speedloaders because they are too bulky to carry in my pocket.
I use Bianchi Speed Strips for my daily pocket carry.
The M&P 340 is carried in a Mika pocket holster. The speed strips in the pocket on my support side.
__________________
"glad you like your HKS speedloader, because mine sucks.
tolerances are too tight for my 340PD and 337PD. yes it is faster than loading by hand, but it fits too tight for me.
been needing to buy the flat speedstrips, but no one local stocks em.
oh well.. looks like I've got to order them"
The HKS Speedloaders are tight, and I have Crimson Trace Grips.
But, they do work and are faster than speed strips.
However, I don't carry the HSK Speedloaders because they are too bulky to carry in my pocket.
I use Bianchi Speed Strips for my daily pocket carry.
The M&P 340 is carried in a Mika pocket holster. The speed strips in the pocket on my support side.
__________________
too bulky is another reason I don't care for the HKS speedloader.
looking forward to getting a set of flat speed strips. it's useless unless it's carry friendly enough to be on your person.
340PD is my CCW... plans are to put the same tritium sights 340 M&P.
looked at a 340 M&P w/CT recently... was really impressed with how natural the sights were.
once that's done, should point well as 340 M&P, but lighter.
looking forward to getting a set of flat speed strips. it's useless unless it's carry friendly enough to be on your person.
340PD is my CCW... plans are to put the same tritium sights 340 M&P.
looked at a 340 M&P w/CT recently... was really impressed with how natural the sights were.
once that's done, should point well as 340 M&P, but lighter.
How about Safariland Speedloaders- Do they work for the MP340?
This link below shows an HKS speedloader for the 340, not sure how it works with the Crimsontrace grips though.
http://www.ableammo.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=58780
The Safariland speedloaders look like they may be quicker if they have a model that works with the MP340, they have a 5 shot but I have not been able to confirm if they will work on the MP340, does anyone know if they do or not?
This link below shows an HKS speedloader for the 340, not sure how it works with the Crimsontrace grips though.
http://www.ableammo.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=58780
The Safariland speedloaders look like they may be quicker if they have a model that works with the MP340, they have a 5 shot but I have not been able to confirm if they will work on the MP340, does anyone know if they do or not?
hornblower
Member
The HKS Speedloader works with the MP340 with Crimson Trace grips, but it is tight.
However, it is much faster to load the 340 with the speedloader over the speed strips.
As I previously stated, I use Bianchi speed strips.
They are a slow load.
porschedog
Member
Yeah, I know - ewwww, it has a hammer!!! But I love it anyway. This is my new 360 M&P. Please excuse the cheesy photo - I used my iPhone to see how well it works as a camera (not well). This thing is ideal for South Florida's insanely hot weather tucked into an Elite pocket holster in the front pocket of my shorts. That way I don't have to opt for the untucked shirt look.
Attachments
OP
OP
DAdams
Member
Welcome
Go away for a couple weeks and look what happens:
Welcome aboard to:
Hornblower
Cy
Milo
Porschedog
Crapgoose
Nick9mm
Go away for a couple weeks and look what happens:
Welcome aboard to:
Hornblower
Cy
Milo
Porschedog
Crapgoose
Nick9mm
megatronrules
Member
Welcome to all the new members porschedog I like that 360 M&P the hammer is a classic touch I think. have you shot her with .357's yet?
AStone
Member
OP
OP
DAdams
Member
Nem
Thanks for the lead. Always seeking new devotees.
I don't know if I am going to be much help.....
Me, I'm looking at going from a revolver to semi-auto....
in fact a
.45 or .40, there is just something appealing and comforting about putting 16 rounds of .40 180 gr under the winter wardrobe. and as soon as S&W does the $50 rebate...I'm in. Let's see 11 rounds of .45 or 16 .40, eeny, meeny.
That M&P midsize .45 fits like a glove!!
Thanks for the 340 bump.
Thanks for the lead. Always seeking new devotees.
I don't know if I am going to be much help.....
Me, I'm looking at going from a revolver to semi-auto....
in fact a .45 or .40, there is just something appealing and comforting about putting 16 rounds of .40 180 gr under the winter wardrobe.
and as soon as S&W does the $50 rebate...I'm in. Let's see 11 rounds of .45 or 16 .40, eeny, meeny. That M&P midsize .45 fits like a glove!!
Thanks for the 340 bump.
Balog
Member
Hey, I know that thread! Thanks for the referrence Nem. I'm trying to work my way through this thread, but as I mainly read it on my phone during down time at work it's taking a bit.
I'm seriously considering going to a Mono-gripped M&P 340 over my XD. I need to get to a range and test fire a 340, 640, and 327 to compare and contrast portability vs shootability. Unless someone who lives in W WA wants to let me test fire their 340 etc?
DAdams: if I like the snubbie I'd be interested in trading a lightly used XD .45 "Tactical Compact" (5 in barrel, shorter grip frame from the 4in version) with some extras for a 340/640 +/- cash depending on the specifics. 10/13+1 of .45 in a very nice package. Assuming no on trades me a reloading setup for it in the mean time. Speaking of which, I need to post that up in the FS section...
Thanks for the referrence Nem. I'm trying to work my way through this thread, but as I mainly read it on my phone during down time at work it's taking a bit. I'm seriously considering going to a Mono-gripped M&P 340 over my XD. I need to get to a range and test fire a 340, 640, and 327 to compare and contrast portability vs shootability. Unless someone who lives in W WA wants to let me test fire their 340 etc?
DAdams: if I like the snubbie I'd be interested in trading a lightly used XD .45 "Tactical Compact" (5 in barrel, shorter grip frame from the 4in version) with some extras for a 340/640 +/- cash depending on the specifics. 10/13+1 of .45 in a very nice package.
Assuming no on trades me a reloading setup for it in the mean time. Speaking of which, I need to post that up in the FS section...
OP
OP
DAdams
Member
Balog
Thanks for the consideration regarding your XD.
I am interested in a .45 (maybe a .40) but I am rather settled on the M&P mid frame in the .45 or full size in the .40.
Of all I that made my short list, the mid size .45 fits me best. I'm just waiting for S&W to do their $50 rebate, which I am confident will happen sooner than later.
I hope I didn't imply I was interested in divesting myself of my 340
I am pleased to say the after almost three years, it is one of my top two carries and number one when in casual wear. I have a Seecamp
.380 I carry when I need something very concealable.
I really liked OWB carry of the 340 with the Hogue Monogrips. I have stuck with pocket carry and Crimson Trace 405s.
Hope you can find one to try.
Thanks for the consideration regarding your XD.
I am interested in a .45 (maybe a .40) but I am rather settled on the M&P mid frame in the .45 or full size in the .40.
Of all I that made my short list, the mid size .45 fits me best. I'm just waiting for S&W to do their $50 rebate, which I am confident will happen sooner than later.
I hope I didn't imply I was interested in divesting myself of my 340
I am pleased to say the after almost three years, it is one of my top two carries and number one when in casual wear. I have a Seecamp .380 I carry when I need something very concealable.
I really liked OWB carry of the 340 with the Hogue Monogrips. I have stuck with pocket carry and Crimson Trace 405s.
Hope you can find one to try.
Balog
Member
Can't blame a guy for trying Dadams.
How much are new M&P 340's running these days? I didn't see any on Bud's or Randy's Hunting. What about used? I don't see too many on the various forii.
How much are new M&P 340's running these days? I didn't see any on Bud's or Randy's Hunting. What about used? I don't see too many on the various forii.
SFB
Member
Balog - My local gun store just quoted me $835 for a 340 with CT grips. I haven't had much luck finding to many used ones or to many places online offering new ones for sale (cheaper than $835 with CT grips that is). I'm purchasing mine in 2 weeks so if you find any deals out there let me know!
Balog
Member
Will do SFB. I think I'll get the non-CT version, just so I can use the Hogue monogrip until I'm used to the recoil. Even if it's not the first or primary purchase you all have talked me into one. Now to find the money and decide if I'll get it or a 327 (or 640, or 65 etc) first...
I think I'll get the non-CT version, just so I can use the Hogue monogrip until I'm used to the recoil. Even if it's not the first or primary purchase you all have talked me into one. Now to find the money and decide if I'll get it or a 327 (or 640, or 65 etc) first...
OP
OP
DAdams
Member
A
few members found 340/360s here.
http://www.shootersjax.com/Small-Frame-J.aspx
360 for $629, so a 340 would be the same price I surmise.
$835 beats these guys.
I would call them and see what they can do. I see the CT version and they are constantly renewing their inventory.
Indeed you can't. You never know.
few members found 340/360s here.
http://www.shootersjax.com/Small-Frame-J.aspx
360 for $629, so a 340 would be the same price I surmise.
$835 beats these guys.
I would call them and see what they can do. I see the CT version and they are constantly renewing their inventory.
Indeed you can't. You never know.
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jfh
Member.
this and that about the SD mindset.
To add some more to the discussion--or, perhaps, to refocus on the reason we buy these revolvers. I just posted this over in the 642 thread, and for us scandium 2" shooters, I'll add it here as well.
1. "Accuracy" Issues: I see new lightweight j-frame shooters checking in and talking about (what seems to me to be) target accuracy at distances of 15 yards or more. This kind of shooting really isn't what the 2" j-frames (lightweight or steel) are all about. Remember that current SD law makes it hard to accept shooting at distances beyond perhaps 15 yards--and arguably, even 7 yards--in worst case situations. So, work on proficiency at the closer-in distances first.
2. A good beginner's SD / j-frame drill: That's Old Fuff's "Quad 5".
Use a blank piece of typing paper.
The drill consists of
1. 5 yards
2. 5 shots
3. 5" group
4. 5 seconds or less.
There's several reasons this drill is good, IMO. First, its parameters help the shooter to start "thinking" about shooting as personal defense, and not as, for example, target-shooting, hunting long-range accuracy, or strategic shooting. SD shooting is a different mindset, IOW, and it has its own skillset.
The trick to using the Old Fuff Quad Five drill is to work on it using an educational concept called "successive approximations". Figure you may meet only the goals of a) shooting at 5 yards, and b) shooting only 5 shots (it's a j-frame, after all). Aimed, two-handed, one-handed, whatever--accept a slower time to get the 5" group. Or, accept getting them all off in 5 seconds, with maybe a shot even off the paper. So, repeat the drill, changing nothing. As you gain those familiarization skills, your group will shrink--and as the group shrinks, you will probably subconsciously speed up.
Working with this drill will help you build your SD skillset and mindset. That's a "positive" task--to learn a new skillset--rather than "unlearning" your bullseye-shooting subconscious paradigm of "front sight-breathe-target/front sight-squeeze"--or whatever other mindset you have. The bullseye mindset could get you killed in a fast-breaking close-in situation.
Remember to change only one parameter at a time; that's critical to developing the entire 'gestalt.'
3. Shooting Hand conditioning: This one is, I suspect, the most unrecognized issue for most of us. We talk about "recoil," "the little mule," or whatever, or accuracy with a short barrel, or trigger-finger usage. For the chart noted here, or elsewhere, those variables will work only once the shooter has figured out how to use each appropriate muscle--for example, squeezing the trigger with the finger muscles only, and not subconsciously squeezing the grip with the palm muscles as well. Get a hand exerciser and use it; squeeze tennis balls, whatever--and shoot a lot. (Personally, for me this was a primary factor in building my SD skillset; I had gotten woefully out-of-shape when I started shooting my 640 and my M&P340.)
That's enough for now--except to say that I suspect wjh2657's drill outlined in this post, for more-advanced SD j-frame skills is a good one.
And, remember jt1's advice:
I'll probably edit this post later, and do some style changes, but for now--LEARN TO SHOOT YOUR LIGHTWEIGHT J-FRAME WELL.
Jim H.
To add some more to the discussion--or, perhaps, to refocus on the reason we buy these revolvers. I just posted this over in the 642 thread, and for us scandium 2" shooters, I'll add it here as well.
1. "Accuracy" Issues: I see new lightweight j-frame shooters checking in and talking about (what seems to me to be) target accuracy at distances of 15 yards or more. This kind of shooting really isn't what the 2" j-frames (lightweight or steel) are all about. Remember that current SD law makes it hard to accept shooting at distances beyond perhaps 15 yards--and arguably, even 7 yards--in worst case situations. So, work on proficiency at the closer-in distances first.
2. A good beginner's SD / j-frame drill: That's Old Fuff's "Quad 5".
Use a blank piece of typing paper.
The drill consists of
1. 5 yards
2. 5 shots
3. 5" group
4. 5 seconds or less.
There's several reasons this drill is good, IMO. First, its parameters help the shooter to start "thinking" about shooting as personal defense, and not as, for example, target-shooting, hunting long-range accuracy, or strategic shooting. SD shooting is a different mindset, IOW, and it has its own skillset.
The trick to using the Old Fuff Quad Five drill is to work on it using an educational concept called "successive approximations". Figure you may meet only the goals of a) shooting at 5 yards, and b) shooting only 5 shots (it's a j-frame, after all). Aimed, two-handed, one-handed, whatever--accept a slower time to get the 5" group. Or, accept getting them all off in 5 seconds, with maybe a shot even off the paper. So, repeat the drill, changing nothing. As you gain those familiarization skills, your group will shrink--and as the group shrinks, you will probably subconsciously speed up.
Working with this drill will help you build your SD skillset and mindset. That's a "positive" task--to learn a new skillset--rather than "unlearning" your bullseye-shooting subconscious paradigm of "front sight-breathe-target/front sight-squeeze"--or whatever other mindset you have. The bullseye mindset could get you killed in a fast-breaking close-in situation.
Remember to change only one parameter at a time; that's critical to developing the entire 'gestalt.'
3. Shooting Hand conditioning: This one is, I suspect, the most unrecognized issue for most of us. We talk about "recoil," "the little mule," or whatever, or accuracy with a short barrel, or trigger-finger usage. For the chart noted here, or elsewhere, those variables will work only once the shooter has figured out how to use each appropriate muscle--for example, squeezing the trigger with the finger muscles only, and not subconsciously squeezing the grip with the palm muscles as well. Get a hand exerciser and use it; squeeze tennis balls, whatever--and shoot a lot. (Personally, for me this was a primary factor in building my SD skillset; I had gotten woefully out-of-shape when I started shooting my 640 and my M&P340.)
That's enough for now--except to say that I suspect wjh2657's drill outlined in this post, for more-advanced SD j-frame skills is a good one.
And, remember jt1's advice:
...this is what the x42's are all about. Remember, at close quarters the gun is protected, not extended, and most often the off hand is unavailable, going for the knife, reload, backup, protecting family members or in direct contact/distracting the BG/'s...
I'll probably edit this post later, and do some style changes, but for now--LEARN TO SHOOT YOUR LIGHTWEIGHT J-FRAME WELL.
Jim H.
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Balog
Member
That's very helpful Jim H. I was actually going to ask some questions re: conditioning the hand etc.
FranklyTodd
Member
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2007
- Messages
- 517
SD Mindset - additional thoughts
I look at jfh as probably THE authority on snub nose revolvers, and respect everything he just posted. I rarely get to post anymore due to time, but I have a few minutes this morning and just wanted to offer a couple different thoughts.
I am no expert in, well, anything. But, I've been training/practicing self-defense for 25 years, and only CCWing for 3. I was lucky enough to find a martial arts teacher that was way more martial, not so much art. I love the more attractive styles, but for me I just wanted the practical. Heck, for 2 years we focused on the Marine Corps LINE system. Nothing pretty about that!
Anyway, when I see people write about self-defense on the gun boards, I just worry that people are really relying too much on the gun. I practiced using a mini-maglite, a collapsable baton, a knife, a stack of quarters in a hankie, and 50 other things. By far I love my M&P as my bestest weapon ever!
But it's just a weapon. The idea that I am going to defend myself using just that tool, without getting my hands dirty, or getting punched or kicked, or having to punch or kick, seems a little too neat. Training should reflect reality.
Ok, sorry, I could write 10 pages on this and it would be boring, so let me just jump to my point.
In my view, if you have a fixed amount of time to dedicate to self-defense training, and you focus mostly on all the stuff jfh talked about - becoming proficient with the snub and conditioning your hand - then you are focusing 90% of your effort on 10% of what self-defense really is.
A snub nose revolver (especially with CT grips) is probably about the easiest weapon on the planet to use, and one can become 90% proficient with really minimal practice. What jfh is talking about is eeking out that last 10%. As he mentions, a legal shooting is going to be up close and personal. You can't spot a BG a punch in the face while you fish around in your pocket for your M&P. For most adults, a punch square in the face is a fight-ender! You better be able to evade and create space, and possibly even end the fight without the gun. Gaining some confidence in this arena might also help avoid pulling your weapon when the threat doesn't (legally) warrant it.
In my view, SD training time should be allocated according to reality - physical fitness, basic hand-to-hand, a boxing class, lift some weights, run (yes running away is my first line of defense if I'm not protecting anyone else). Of course some gun drills and shooting, but be honest with yourself that you might be over-focusing on shooting because it is really fun!
I like to shoot - I assume everyone on THR likes to shoot. But, I think shooting 10,000 rounds to condition you hand and chalking that up to better SD is kind of a stretch...
Anyway, just some different thoughts. This is (mostly) a gun board so I understand why that's the focus. I just cringe that someone might read a post like jfh's and think THAT's comprehensive self-defense.
Lastly, and this SHOULD go without saying, I'm not being critical of jfh or his post. It is excellent information about becoming a snub expert. I just wanted to offer a slightly different perspective.
Safe shooting to all,
FranklyTodd
I look at jfh as probably THE authority on snub nose revolvers, and respect everything he just posted. I rarely get to post anymore due to time, but I have a few minutes this morning and just wanted to offer a couple different thoughts.
I am no expert in, well, anything. But, I've been training/practicing self-defense for 25 years, and only CCWing for 3. I was lucky enough to find a martial arts teacher that was way more martial, not so much art. I love the more attractive styles, but for me I just wanted the practical. Heck, for 2 years we focused on the Marine Corps LINE system. Nothing pretty about that!
Anyway, when I see people write about self-defense on the gun boards, I just worry that people are really relying too much on the gun. I practiced using a mini-maglite, a collapsable baton, a knife, a stack of quarters in a hankie, and 50 other things. By far I love my M&P as my bestest weapon ever!
But it's just a weapon. The idea that I am going to defend myself using just that tool, without getting my hands dirty, or getting punched or kicked, or having to punch or kick, seems a little too neat. Training should reflect reality.
Ok, sorry, I could write 10 pages on this and it would be boring, so let me just jump to my point.
In my view, if you have a fixed amount of time to dedicate to self-defense training, and you focus mostly on all the stuff jfh talked about - becoming proficient with the snub and conditioning your hand - then you are focusing 90% of your effort on 10% of what self-defense really is.
A snub nose revolver (especially with CT grips) is probably about the easiest weapon on the planet to use, and one can become 90% proficient with really minimal practice. What jfh is talking about is eeking out that last 10%. As he mentions, a legal shooting is going to be up close and personal. You can't spot a BG a punch in the face while you fish around in your pocket for your M&P. For most adults, a punch square in the face is a fight-ender! You better be able to evade and create space, and possibly even end the fight without the gun. Gaining some confidence in this arena might also help avoid pulling your weapon when the threat doesn't (legally) warrant it.
In my view, SD training time should be allocated according to reality - physical fitness, basic hand-to-hand, a boxing class, lift some weights, run (yes running away is my first line of defense if I'm not protecting anyone else). Of course some gun drills and shooting, but be honest with yourself that you might be over-focusing on shooting because it is really fun!
I like to shoot - I assume everyone on THR likes to shoot. But, I think shooting 10,000 rounds to condition you hand and chalking that up to better SD is kind of a stretch...
Anyway, just some different thoughts. This is (mostly) a gun board so I understand why that's the focus. I just cringe that someone might read a post like jfh's and think THAT's comprehensive self-defense.
Lastly, and this SHOULD go without saying, I'm not being critical of jfh or his post. It is excellent information about becoming a snub expert. I just wanted to offer a slightly different perspective.
Safe shooting to all,
FranklyTodd
Last edited:
jfh
Member.
a disclaimer: Despite FranklyTodd identifying me as such, I am NOT 'the' snubnose authority. There are any number of forum members--and members include Forum staff--far more proficient and knowledgeable than I am. rcmodel comes to mind, for example, or XavierBreath, or Brian Williams, or Stephen A. Camp, to name only a few.
I will acknowledge a subset of snubnose knowledge, however--that of reloading data for building practice loads for self defense, rounds that cost perhaps 13 cents to make but which perform like the GDSB 135-gr. 38+P or 357 Magnum rounds, or the proverbial 'FBI' 38+P loads, or my own recipe for 357 Magnum 'FBI900' loads.
Beyond that, I practice. But, I am aging, and practice now just slows the decline.
What I am, however, is a 'former' teacher--and because of that, and the kind of undergraduate education I received--I think I can identify and extract salient points for enthusiasts to consider. That's what I try to do in posts like #1243--to help chaperone a thread like this to maintain its usefulness.
Jim H.
I will acknowledge a subset of snubnose knowledge, however--that of reloading data for building practice loads for self defense, rounds that cost perhaps 13 cents to make but which perform like the GDSB 135-gr. 38+P or 357 Magnum rounds, or the proverbial 'FBI' 38+P loads, or my own recipe for 357 Magnum 'FBI900' loads.
Beyond that, I practice. But, I am aging, and practice now just slows the decline.
What I am, however, is a 'former' teacher--and because of that, and the kind of undergraduate education I received--I think I can identify and extract salient points for enthusiasts to consider. That's what I try to do in posts like #1243--to help chaperone a thread like this to maintain its usefulness.
Jim H.
OP
OP
DAdams
Member
Thanks
jfh and frankly todd for two excellent posts.
Speaking of posting here and there (642 Thread) and self defense. I spent the morning (it's raining and cool in East TN today) answering a question about a particular EDC knife and then embellishing further an EDC item with a post about flashlights. I suspect that if you have spent enough time researching/owning handguns and get to the point where it is apparent the 340 has particular features/benefits it probably holds true for two other commonly carried "tools".
We all bring our particular areas of expertise to this thread with the common bond that brought us here to begin with, the S&W M&P 340 and its ilk, the J Frame.
I'll share a few years of experience researching and use of a couple of items. Yes this is an personal endorsement.
If you have some favorites (carry knives and lights) we can go off topic, it's our thread.
jt1 asks
Quote:
DA - how do you like that Gerber? Can you open/close with one hand? Ambidextrous?
I got lucky when I purchased this (while Xmas shopping at Wal Mart) a few years ago when I believe they first came out. It has been my EDC now for awhile (years) and I like it well enough that I have not felt compelled to replace it with something else in the same class. I paid $40 then and now they can be found for as little as $30, a bargain in my book. I haven't used it to pry with, but it does hold an edge and I have been pretty rough on it.
It is ambi although you can't relocate the clip which is screwed on and it certainly could have been designed such.
The Gerber Fast Draw utilizes F.A.S.T., Forward Action Spring Technology. A new (perhaps 3 years old now) blade opening technology developed and patented by knife designer Butch Valloton. On the Fast Draw, this technology allows one-handed opening with either the thumb stud or with the finger flip and one handed closing as well. Textured hande allows for superior grip as well. Pocket clip allows fast and easy access. This knife opens very quickly. We did a test versus an automatic knife (not a Gerber) and the Fast Draw beat it by a long shot.
Features
Length:4.3
Width:1.8
Height:0.8
Along with one of my other occassional carrys.
Aren't you glad you asked?
=======================================================
EDC Flashlights
I have become about as interested in carry flashlights as carry handguns.
If you are a "flashaholic" or would like to become one the "THR" of the flashlight world is the Candlepower Forum.
A "defensive" light can help you find your way or temporarily "blind" an adversary.
Some have crenelated heads and tailpieces that can act as a handheld weapon.
If you are in the market here is a place where one member has reviewed many of todays finest offerings.
http://www.sliderule.ca/flashlight.htm
My EDC LED light is the Fenix LT1 V2.0 a single AA cell light that puts out about 70 lumens. I am about to upgrade it though to a quark in a single CR123A format that has over twice the output. 3.2 inches long and 1.4 ounces. 170 Lumens.
https://www.4sevens.com/quark/
Just as we have perhaps a different handgun for bedside use (something more potent perhaps) the same can be true for LED lights. I have a Fenix T1 for that purpose. At 225 Lumens (2XCR123A) it is like a spotlight. Good for walking the dog, in the car or camping when a larger (brighter) light is in order.
Note the tailcap. Crenelated for possible defensive purposes, and can be set on end for upward illumination of a room. Pulse/on/off switch.
In case you might be wondering what the "big gun" is in LED lights in a realistic size format these days, ie Maglite 2D sized (8in), here it is.. the TK40 8AA 4/4 in parallel, meaning it can run on four. 630 Lumens MSRP $159 and billed as the "worlds most powerful" AA flashlight.
If you use a lot of batteries (I burn a bunch of AA and AAA) you might be interested in this, I just ordered one and the batteries get high marks from the CPF crowd, we shall see.
Amazon Link:
http://www.amazon.com/Eneloop-PowerP...ef=cm_cmu_pg_t
__________________
LED Lights I Own That Have Served Well
Fenix LT1 V2.0 (1AA) 70 lumen
Fenix T1 (2X123A) 225
EagleTac P100 (2XAA) 170
Energizer (2XAAA) about 30 Headlamp with four settings and red night lights.
I also have a couple of Energizer LED lanterns and one of those War of the World looking LED tripod worklights.
I picked up some (worlds smallest) Nanolight LED stick on lights that adhere to key (red).
On Order
4Sevens Preon Kit (2XAAA) or Convertible to 1XAAA 70-170 lumens about the size of a pen
Non EDC Pictures:
Iv'e about worn this one out. Very handy.
The J Frame that led me to the 340. 642-2 and my EDC gear.
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jfh and frankly todd for two excellent posts.
Speaking of posting here and there (642 Thread) and self defense. I spent the morning (it's raining and cool in East TN today) answering a question about a particular EDC knife and then embellishing further an EDC item with a post about flashlights. I suspect that if you have spent enough time researching/owning handguns and get to the point where it is apparent the 340 has particular features/benefits it probably holds true for two other commonly carried "tools".
We all bring our particular areas of expertise to this thread with the common bond that brought us here to begin with, the S&W M&P 340 and its ilk, the J Frame.
I'll share a few years of experience researching and use of a couple of items. Yes this is an personal endorsement.
If you have some favorites (carry knives and lights) we can go off topic, it's our thread.
jt1 asks
Quote:
DA - how do you like that Gerber? Can you open/close with one hand? Ambidextrous?
I got lucky when I purchased this (while Xmas shopping at Wal Mart) a few years ago when I believe they first came out. It has been my EDC now for awhile (years) and I like it well enough that I have not felt compelled to replace it with something else in the same class. I paid $40 then and now they can be found for as little as $30, a bargain in my book. I haven't used it to pry with, but it does hold an edge and I have been pretty rough on it.
It is ambi although you can't relocate the clip which is screwed on and it certainly could have been designed such.
The Gerber Fast Draw utilizes F.A.S.T., Forward Action Spring Technology. A new (perhaps 3 years old now) blade opening technology developed and patented by knife designer Butch Valloton. On the Fast Draw, this technology allows one-handed opening with either the thumb stud or with the finger flip and one handed closing as well. Textured hande allows for superior grip as well. Pocket clip allows fast and easy access. This knife opens very quickly. We did a test versus an automatic knife (not a Gerber) and the Fast Draw beat it by a long shot.
Features
Length:4.3
Width:1.8
Height:0.8
Along with one of my other occassional carrys.
Aren't you glad you asked?
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EDC Flashlights
I have become about as interested in carry flashlights as carry handguns.
If you are a "flashaholic" or would like to become one the "THR" of the flashlight world is the Candlepower Forum.
A "defensive" light can help you find your way or temporarily "blind" an adversary.
Some have crenelated heads and tailpieces that can act as a handheld weapon.
If you are in the market here is a place where one member has reviewed many of todays finest offerings.
http://www.sliderule.ca/flashlight.htm
My EDC LED light is the Fenix LT1 V2.0 a single AA cell light that puts out about 70 lumens. I am about to upgrade it though to a quark in a single CR123A format that has over twice the output. 3.2 inches long and 1.4 ounces. 170 Lumens.
https://www.4sevens.com/quark/
Just as we have perhaps a different handgun for bedside use (something more potent perhaps) the same can be true for LED lights. I have a Fenix T1 for that purpose. At 225 Lumens (2XCR123A) it is like a spotlight. Good for walking the dog, in the car or camping when a larger (brighter) light is in order.
Note the tailcap. Crenelated for possible defensive purposes, and can be set on end for upward illumination of a room. Pulse/on/off switch.
In case you might be wondering what the "big gun" is in LED lights in a realistic size format these days, ie Maglite 2D sized (8in), here it is.. the TK40 8AA 4/4 in parallel, meaning it can run on four. 630 Lumens MSRP $159 and billed as the "worlds most powerful" AA flashlight.
If you use a lot of batteries (I burn a bunch of AA and AAA) you might be interested in this, I just ordered one and the batteries get high marks from the CPF crowd, we shall see.
Amazon Link:
http://www.amazon.com/Eneloop-PowerP...ef=cm_cmu_pg_t
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LED Lights I Own That Have Served Well
Fenix LT1 V2.0 (1AA) 70 lumen
Fenix T1 (2X123A) 225
EagleTac P100 (2XAA) 170
Energizer (2XAAA) about 30 Headlamp with four settings and red night lights.
I also have a couple of Energizer LED lanterns and one of those War of the World looking LED tripod worklights.
I picked up some (worlds smallest) Nanolight LED stick on lights that adhere to key (red).
On Order
4Sevens Preon Kit (2XAAA) or Convertible to 1XAAA 70-170 lumens about the size of a pen
Non EDC Pictures:
Iv'e about worn this one out. Very handy.
The J Frame that led me to the 340. 642-2 and my EDC gear.
__________________
Last edited:
who else carries +P instead of .357 in 340PD?
after firing some full house .357 rounds through my 340PD...
my thoughts was it's not nearly as bad as the press say.... hands bleed and all that.
with my slightly larger CT grips, recoil with .357 was very manageable.
pie plate sized groups at 7 yds was no problems. after all a snub-nose is never going to shoot 1911 type groups.
but there's NO way I'm able to shoot one handed or weak hand with a .357... at least with any degree of control. this is why I've chosen to carry my 340PD with +P. it's controllable with plenty of firepower.
my practice drills consist of shooting while moving backwards and/or side ways. then reload on the move... practice with 1911 includes recovering from jams. since 340PD all but never jams, that's not part of my routine with revolvers.
after firing some full house .357 rounds through my 340PD...
my thoughts was it's not nearly as bad as the press say.... hands bleed and all that.
with my slightly larger CT grips, recoil with .357 was very manageable.
pie plate sized groups at 7 yds was no problems. after all a snub-nose is never going to shoot 1911 type groups.
but there's NO way I'm able to shoot one handed or weak hand with a .357... at least with any degree of control. this is why I've chosen to carry my 340PD with +P. it's controllable with plenty of firepower.
my practice drills consist of shooting while moving backwards and/or side ways. then reload on the move... practice with 1911 includes recovering from jams. since 340PD all but never jams, that's not part of my routine with revolvers.
FranklyTodd
Member
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2007
- Messages
- 517
Anyone appendix carry their 340? In what holster? (I am curious, but also wanted to bump this great thread!)
blackhawk pocket holster size 4
uncle mikes makes one that looks identical... but is not.
difference is the slick material used inside blackhawk's holsters.
holster will stay in your pocket, when 340PD is withdrawn. vs uncle mike's holster will come out with pistol.
uncle mikes makes one that looks identical... but is not.
difference is the slick material used inside blackhawk's holsters.
holster will stay in your pocket, when 340PD is withdrawn. vs uncle mike's holster will come out with pistol.
- Status
