M1 carbine light strike issues

[bainter1212]

So recently I picked up a commercial M1 carbine for a decent price. It is a James River Armory receiver with what looks like a newer Criterion barrel. The rest of the parts appear to be USGI.
I got it for a decent price because the seller disclosed that it had light strike issues. I picked it up from my FFL hoping to solve the issue cheaply and have a nice shooter.

I tore it down and immediately noticed that the extractor spring plunger was not notched in properly with the extractor. I corrected that issue and spent a good hour or so thoroughly cleaning the carbine.

I checked the firing pin protrusion and found it to measure .053 which is on the shorter side but apparently well within spec. I replaced the hammer spring and recoil spring just for good measure.

Hoping that the extractor issue was the only problem, I took it out to test fire it. First 15 rd mag, no issues. Then in the few subsequent mags, got a few light strikes. Most rounds fired off, only had 4 light strikes out of 50 rds, but I am still not happy with that.

Thanks to Sailorman2, I was able to borrow a set of headspace gauges. I found that the stripped bolt would close on the NoGo AND the Field gauge.

Not good.....but could be a worn out bolt.

Next step was to establish a control. I have a reliable Inland that I used to test the bolt theory out.

First I stripped down and gauged the Inland with it's own bolt. Almost (but didn't) close on the no-go, and not even close on the field gauge. Alright....so my Inland is good.

I then swapped my known good Inland bolt into the JRA. Failed again.....closed easily on the Field gauge.

Just for giggles, I put the bolt from the JRA into the Inland to test. Funny....that bolt would not close at all in my Inland....with or without gauges. Odd. I cannot see why that is the case.

So now I am resigned to contacting James River Armory to see what can be done. Can the barrel be pulled, some material removed and the barrel re-installed and the chamber re-cut??? I am not a smith so I don't know.

So it looks like we might have a chamber cut excessively here.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[Sunray]

"...a newer Criterion barrel..." Installed by the former owner? And it has bad headspace? There's no need for anything but fixing the headspace first. Wouldn't bother with anybody but James River myself. Mind you, I'd want to know who installed that barrel. James River does use Criterion barrels, but I'd be surprised if they put that one on.

 

[carbine85]

Assuming the hammer spring and firing pin is good I would look for a short chamber. It may not have been reamed correctly. Remove the barreled action from the stock, look at the bolt and firing pin positions without a round in the chamber, then look at it with a round in the chamber and see if the firing pin is being obstructed. Obviously you don't want the trigger assembly in place.

 

[bainter1212]

JRA didn't build this one, it is their receiver though. Somebody else assembled it.

If you read my OP you will see that I checked headspace and the chamber is cut too long.

 

[ulflyer]

At least try a new firing pin to see if that helps. Or if you can find additional bolts to try.
Underwood bolts are one of the longest and they made a lot at end of the war of just after so you might find a new or like new one. If not, you're gonna have to correct the headspace...whatever that takes.

 

[carbine85]

I guess I didn't read the whole post. If you have too much head space the barrel is toast. You can't get extra an turn of the threads and index it.

 

[ApacheCoTodd]

Me?

Check firing pin protrusion and the gage.

Check headspace if possible.

Swap out complete bolt from an operating rifle if possible to include proving yours in the other rifle.

My best guess if your gage is good... "perfect storm" of sad pin and long chamber.


Todd.

 

[bainter1212]

I guess I didn't read the whole post. If you have too much head space the barrel is toast. You can't get extra an turn of the threads and index it.

That is what I needed to know. Thank you.

 

[CoalTrain49]

I think those barrels are head spaced after they are matched to the receiver. Probably a gunsmith that didn't know how to head space a carbine.

Sorry to hear that.

 

[Jim K]

I often see "just set the barrel back" given as the solution to headspace problems. Won't work on carbines and M1 rifles, though.

A common cause of light strikes in a carbine is the bolt not fully locking. But that would likely be the result of too little headspace, not too much. Still, something to check.

Jim

 

[CoalTrain49]

After doing some research it sounds like the bolt that came with your JRA isn't the bolt that it was head spaced with, assuming it was head spaced properly.

Ask the seller if he switched bolts AFTER it was head spaced. This sounds like a very strange bolt that won't close on an Inland. Where did that bolt come from? Is it USGI?

I would send the gun to JRA. It sounds like someone (other than JRA) put this gun together using a JRA receiver. JRA may be able to match a bolt with that head space.

Just a thought.

 

[bainter1212]

After doing some research it sounds like the bolt that came with your JRA isn't the bolt that it was head spaced with, assuming it was head spaced properly.

Ask the seller if he switched bolts AFTER it was head spaced. This sounds like a very strange bolt that won't close on an Inland. Where did that bolt come from? Is it USGI?

I would send the gun to JRA. It sounds like someone (other than JRA) put this gun together using a JRA receiver. JRA may be able to match a bolt with that head space.

Just a thought.

The bolt has an "IV" stamped on it, which I assume means Iver Johnson. I believe they tended to make longer bolts than the other manufacturers.
If this is a bolt that is longer than most other bolts, and it still closes on a field gauge, I have to assume whoever cut the chamber on this barrel cut it way too long.