m1 Garand 30.06 ammo and clips

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deanl

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Does anyone have an idea how much an 8 round clip with lake City ball 30.06 military ammo in it with the black band painted in the tips are worth. They shoot well and still have the paper cover for the tips. Thanks
 
probably not a lot, you can get the surplus stuff in bandoleers for next to nothing...

http://www.odcmp.com/ammo.htm

shows 192 round cans in clips and bandoleers for $50...

now if what you have is actual WWII issue from your dads bringback gear or something, it might have value to a collector...
 
The "rip off gun show price" for those AP rounds is about 3 bucks each.
Real world pricing goes down from there.

So, there's a rough guide for you. Top dollar you have $60 worth of stuff if you find the perfect sucker.
 
I bought 2 sealed, 20 round boxes of 1942 manufacture, Lake City, St. Louis factory, 30-06 M2 AP ammo around Christmas for just $25 per box, shipped, so, sorry to say, an 8 round clip isn't worth much. probly $10 best case, to anyone with a clue, who's not a total sucker.Personaly, if you have an M1 or any 30-06 for that matter,I'd just keep it.Might prove invaluable in some situation some day or, most of the M2 AP ammo could end up getting shot off, corroded, destroyed, etc, making it rare, and thus more valuable in the future.

Still neat stuff though, IMHO.I have one of the boxes on display with my ammo collection.The ammo is now in a few Garand clips, and some "loose" for my model 70, just in case....
LCM2APbox1.gif
 
I too will say ten bucks a clip is about average retail for AP.
$8.50 a clip would sell it faster.
 
Wow, I had no idea AP was going for that much now. This stuff was cheap and common not too many years ago. A decade or so ago I bought a couple bandoleers of WWII issue, in clips, for 20 cents a round. I still have them somewhere. I guess I did OK.
 
My dad bought a can of this stuff when he was younger and still alive. Someone wanted to trade me some of them for some other stuff I think I need. But when it comes to guns my wife will say I think I need everything. I do....Thank you for the responses. It is very helpful!!
 
save your AP!

I saw a deer wearing makeshift body armor the other day... two engine blocks hanging like saddle bags, attached with nylon straps... :)

seriously, I am saving ALL surplus ammo... the prices keep going up, and what I dont shoot, I stack in the corner.
 
The above picture of the ammo box shows the statement "Disposal of emptied cartridge cases must be as prescribed by A.R.". I assume A.R. is Army Regulations. So how are you supposed to dispose of your cases? I can see policing your brass on a range, but do they say anything about combat situations?
 
So why don't all the WWII era garands have messed up barrels? They didn't actually clean them with water first... or were they just not shot very much (the ones we can get via the CMP, etc.)?
 
So why don't all the WWII era garands have messed up barrels?
Click to expand...

Because they were properly cared for.

Corrosive ammo isn't really that big a problem if you'll just clean the thing after shooting it.

You don't have to use water, windex, all that stuff. It's just easier if you do.
The Garand field manual called for 2 or 3 cleanings after firing, can't remember for sure.
 
Because they were properly cared for.

Corrosive ammo isn't really that big a problem if you'll just clean the thing after shooting it.

You don't have to use water, windex, all that stuff. It's just easier if you do.
The Garand field manual called for 2 or 3 cleanings after firing, can't remember for sure.
Click to expand...

that, and as I understand it a whole lot of the Garands available via CMP were rebarreled at one point or another.
 
Because they were properly cared for.

Corrosive ammo isn't really that big a problem if you'll just clean the thing after shooting it.

You don't have to use water, windex, all that stuff. It's just easier if you do.
Click to expand...
I was under the impression that oil/cleaning solvent wouldn't deactivate the corrosion... and that it would continue to work underneath the cleaning stuff/oil if you didn't neutralize it first with water/windex. Obviously I was informed incorrectly. :)
 
I was under the impression that oil/cleaning solvent wouldn't deactivate the corrosion...
Click to expand...

I can't quote the chemistry but I know that there was nothing ever in the Army Field Manuals about using water to clean Garands, BARs that I can remember.

So either it wasn't that bad or the barrels have all been replaced at some point.

I'm trying to find an older copy of the field manual to see exactly what it said.

I've heard lots of stories of GIs taking the Garand into the shower with them for this reason, dunno if that's true.
 
I believe the WWII Army-issue gun cleaning solvent was formulated to handle the corrosive primer compounds as well. At any rate, if you clean it right corrosive primers are no more problem than non-corrosive.
 
sorry to be on topic ;) , but i have seen them (8 rnds ap on clips) going for around $6 to $8 at the local shows latley.
 
USGI milky bore cleaning solvent is formulated to remove/neutralize corrosive salt residues from chlorate primers.
 
I believe the WWII Army-issue gun cleaning solvent was formulated to handle the corrosive primer compounds
Click to expand...

BINGO !!! We have a winner.

Modern cleaning solvents won't de-nature the corrosive salts in old ammo... that's why you need to use water/windex/ammonia.

The old cleaning stuff was made for the ammo of the times.

Best to all,
Swampy

Garands forever
 
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