M1 Garand doubling off lead sled

[TwoEyedJack]

Has anyone else had an M1 Garand double fire using a lead sled?

I was verifying zero on my .338 win mag using a lead sled. After that was done, I put a clip through the M1. The first two shots went off as expected, then the third and forth doubled. The rest of the clip fired one at a time. Could the lack of rearward motion somehow cause doubling, or is it more likely that the trigger group needs to be repaired? This is a CMP rifle with maybe 600 rounds through it since I got it.

 

[Sunray]

If it stops do it with the sled out, that'll be your answer. The sled it interfering with the trigger group.
However, doubling is either mechanical or operator failure. Doubling is covered in the trouble shooting chapter of Hatcher's Book of the Garand. Unfortunately, I'm not at home. It's in the TM/FM's too, but I can't find it. I'd bet on the sled being too big.

 

[TwoEyedJack]

So this is not the single loading device. It is a rest that has a bag of lead shot on a tray to dramatically reduce felt recoil.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/cald...=Header%3BSearch-All%2BProducts&Ntt=lead+sled

 

[carbine85]

That sounds like a bump fire but I would be suspect of the trigger group.

 

[mshootnit]

You are just going too light on the trigger. Just pull the trigger firmly and keep it back. It wont double any more. Almost any semi can double from a rest if you feather the trigger

 

[dh1633pm]

What is being used for ammo? Could this be a slam fire?

 

[Reloadron]

I have gotten rifles to do this (double fire) but it is difficult to do. Generally slowly milking the trigger of a rifle with a light trigger can give that result. Have you ever measured the trigger pull. Additionally a faulty, worn part or parts can cause the problem.

The following quote is taken from The U.S. .30 Gas Operated Service Rifles A Shop Manual, by: Jerry Kuhnhausen.

M1 Rifle sear/hammer/trigger lug engagement problems and remedies
Except for the occasional doubling that occurs when a lightened trigger is squeezed slowly and held at the hammer release point, few problems are found in Mi trigger groups assembled from within specification parts. Problems are almost always caused by an off-specification or defective part and are best solved by repeating the the following check procedure, with attention to detail. Use a bright light and magnifying glass, as needed.
1. Begin by easing the hammer forward to the uncocked position.
2. Cycle the trigger to make sure that it moves freely and returns forward positively to stop position when released. If the trigger doesn't move or return freely, disassemble the trigger group and closely reinspect all parts. Look for and replace problem parts such as: (a) a bent trigger pin; (b) a damaged trigger assembly; (c) a damaged hammer spring housing and/or hammer spring; or (d) a bent, twisted, or otherwise damaged trigger housing.
3. Hold the trigger back, slowly thumb cock the hammer and recheck rear hammer hook and sear interaction. The front hammer hooks should just clear the trigger lugs as the rear hammer hooks contact and push back the sear. As the rear hammer hooks pass below the sear, it should snap forward and overlap the rear hooks by approx. 50% of the sear engagement surface. If not, check for: (a) altered front and/or rear trigger hooks; (b) altered trigger lugs; and/or (c) a heavily worn, peened, or altered sear. Replace any worn, damaged, or altered part found.
4. Ease the trigger forward and recheck hammer hand-off.
5. Next, hold the hammer and slowly squeeze the trigger until 1st stage slack is taken up and the sear just contacts the rear hammer hooks. At this point, the trigger lugs should still engage the front hammer hooks approx. 50%. If not look for: (a) altered front/rear hammer hooks., (b) altered trigger lugs, or, (c) altered sear. Replace any defective part of parts and recheck.
6. Finally, recheck by cocking the hammer with the trigger forward to make certain the front hammer hooks fully engage the trigger lugs without hanging. Specified front hammer hook/lug engagement is 100% (.050" min.).

You may want to remove the trigger group and try the above checks on it. Also here is another THR thread on the subject, worth a read.

Ron

 

[25-5]

Agree with all above. If problem persists make sure the firing pin is not gunked up and is free floating.

 

[TwoEyedJack]

Now that I think about it, I was probably "feathering" the trigger, which is how I normally shoot off that heavy rest. Even so, I will definitely check out the trigger group per the above.

 

[Orlando]

Its a common issue with a Garand newbie firing off a rest. Not a slam fire! All you are doing is milking the trigger. Hold the rifle firmly to your shoulder and pull the trigger all the way through and your issue will dissapear

 

[jmorris]

With recoil Mostly controlled by the rest, I'll go with the bump fire opinion.

 

[Slamfire]

Has anyone else had an M1 Garand double fire using a lead sled?

I think you were having a bump fire even though you were using a sled. If it is something mechanical, like worn trigger sear surfaces, it won't go away.

Bump fires were basically unknown till recently. Back in the day, shooters fired their Garands in NRA competition and everyone used a tight sling. To control that rifle, and keep it from knocking you and itself out of position, shooters developed strong positions, a tight sling, and a tight hold on the upper stock. Shooters also learned to pull through the trigger and not milk it.

Nowadays, hardly anyone shoots with a sling either sitting or prone. So you have shooters firing on a bench, the rifle recoils, but the finger stays put.

 

[M1key]

Trigger pull weight? Maybe it's too light.

M