m1a bolt assembly/disassembly?

[brentn]

I am seriously having a VERY Hard time getting the ejector with spring to go in without it popping out and flying all over the place.

I read a guide on the net that shows pics of the author using the service tool included with the rifle. He explains that you can hold the ejector with spring into the bolt by using the service tool.
The service tool that I have has a dimple in the middle of the head most likely for this purpose, but when I push it down to the rim of the bolt, it's still not far enough to allow room for the extractor pin to push in all the way...
Pushing the ejector any further is pretty much impossible with the service tool...

I'm determined that this can be done WITHOUT buying the 60$ bolt tool from brownells which makes the job 100 times easier.

Are there any tricks or tips you guys can shell out?

The guide for the disassembly/re-assembly is here

Thanks for any and all help in advance.

 

[dmazur]

I understand your reluctance to get the tools. I fought the bolt, using the same pictures and a punch, and I gave up and got a bolt disassembly tool. (I understand the same tool fits the Garand or M1A bolts.)

I also got a set of headspace gauges.

I read the maintenance procedures and both of these are a very good thing to have if you shoot your M1A or Garand a few thousand rounds each year. If you only shoot a few hundred, the wear is considerably less and you could, perhaps, have a gunsmith disassemble and inspect the rifle every 5 years or so. In 10 years a couple of $80 technical inspections are going to be about the same cost as a couple of gauges and the bolt tool...

If you consider that you are more likely to take the bolt apart and thoroughly clean it if you don't have to fight it, the $60 doesn't seem so bad, IMO.

 

[nicholst55]

The thing that they don't tell you about using the combo tool to reassemble the bolt is, that it takes three hands!

High-power shooters used to carry a piece of .30-06 brass in their kit to use to reassemble the bolt in the rifle, for when it spontaneously disassembles. Since the '06 brass extends from the chamber by 1/2", it will hold the partially assembled bolt open that far with the ejector depressed. Insert the extractor spring and detent, depress it, and press the extractor home. Extract the brass, and you're good-to-go!

Otherwise, spend the money; buy the tool.

 

[lipadj46]

+1 for an empty 30.06. It is the only "tool" you need to assemble and disassemble a bolt. Pretty much the only thing the bolt tool does is hold the ejector in and keep it from flying across the room. Yes you can take apart and assemble an M14 bolt without the tool or a 30.06 shell but I guarantee your ejector will fly away and maybe disappear a few times if you do it without either. I've disassembled and assembled my bolt a few times without anything and it is a pain to get the extractor in and have the ejector pushed in at the same time.

 

[No4Mk1*]

Agreed, a .30-06 case with about 1/3 of the head ground off to allow the extractor to slide off. Any case of similar size should work .270, etc. Even .308 would work but you can't use chambering trick above. The best benefit is you will learn how to make do without relying on a specialty tool which may not be with your rifle when you need it.

I'll add that the original extractor from SA came with too deep of a depression which prevented the plunger from slipping out without breaking it. Problem solved with a new extractor (and plunger)

 

[pgeleven]

i fought my bolt for a good hour before, i hope to god to not have to play with that thing for a long time again

 

[brentn]

Awesome! I have some 30-06 brass and will give it a try, thanks guys!

 

[Slamfire]

I tried the GI buttstock tool and found it extremely difficult to use. (I never tried the 30-06 case. ) I found at a gun show a GI version of this Brownell's bolt tool. Think I paid $50.00 and was happy to get it. This is the best tool I have used, and if you have a number of M1's/M1a's, this will pay for itself in lost ejector springs.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=917&title=M1/M14 BOLT DISASSEMBLY TOOL

 

[brentn]

Alright, I GOT IT!!!!!
Major victory,

M14s -- 30 points
Me --- 1 point

lol
I must have dicked around with the 30-06 case for an hour before I finally figured it out. It works very nicely though, and I am not determined to do it all over again so that I can show people how you can do this without buying the 50$ tool.

The key was to file away 1/4 of the rim on the 30-06 case flat enough, that the extractor could slide around with without catching on the inner rim.
Hard to explain, but I'll show you how it's done in the video if anyone cares to know.
Now that the case is properly file it cost me nothing and about an hour of grief and it works just freakin awesome.


Thanks to nicholst55, lipadj46 and no4mk1 for suggesting the case and backing up the idea as a good one.

 

[FredT]

I too was going to suggest the .30-06 trick. Glad ya got it to work.

 

[Buckskinner]

Is the video for modifying the '06 case posted anywhere?

 

[lipadj46]

just file off enough of the rim so that the extractor won't catch on it when you remove the extractor. The 30.06 shell trick is only good for changing the extractor or the extractor plunger/spring. If you plan on removing the ejector and firing pin and cleaning the bolt the do yourself a favor and get a steel bolt assembly tool from LRB Arms.

 

[30Cal]

I use an Garand M10 tool ($10) to disassemble. Chamber it, push the bolt against it, and rotate. Takes longer for you to read that last sentance than it does to complete the task.

I use an unmodified 30-06 case to reassemble.

 

[Buckskinner]

Gracias.