Making 30-338 mag brass

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Lion

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7mm up or 338 down which is better and why? Full sizing or neck only? For a Czech Mauser action don't know who's 26" barrel in what appears to be a custom(ized) wood stock. Still researching the gun and maker(s). Any other ideas on building good rounds for prong horn and elk?
 
I've been shooting a 30-338 for more than ten years. Best results have been from neck sizing then fire forming Win 338 brass. Length comes out quite close to specs. With the 7mag brass there's more trimming/case prep. Redding and RCBS make dies for 30-338.

If you can buy .308 Norma brass, then fire forming might be all you need. Since I've got a good supply of 338 brass, I've never tried it, but might just to know. -Someday. If your rifle was built in Europe, Or the barrel came from there, you can almost bet that it's .308 Norma.

You might want to have the chamber slugged. Years ago, stateside smiths would just use a .308 Norma reamer then sell it as 30-338 if that's what the customer asked for. Other smiths would actually use a 30-338 reamer. But I've been told that there are a few variations on the 30-338.

I have some 40 or so cases with "short necks" if you need them. Free for the cost of postage.

Once you get to using this wildcat, you'll find it more powerful than an Ot-6. And more pleasing to shoot than a .300WinMag. Using less powder, while not being quite as finicky at altitude, and having nearly the same balistics as the .300WinMag. My Ruger 77 rechambered in 30-338 shoots minute of angle. Most success has been with Hornady 190gn Bt, with 66.5gns of 4350. The same load with Speer 180gn Bt, and Seira 180gn Bt with 64.5gn of 4350. (Can't seem to push the Siera's quite as hard, accuracy fails) But with the other two bullets, 3100fps is quite atainable. These are worked up loads for my rifle. And may not work in yours. Start your work up at lighter powder charges than these. I get about four to six reloads per piece of brass.

-Steve
 
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Wil Terry said:
Best to neck 338WINMAG brass down. I would use W-W brass too. A correctly dimensioned FL size die will work just fine.

Could you would you elaborate on Ahhhhh. I'm a meat on the table gunner so work just fine is about all I need.
 
Jack thanx for the info. Being a wildcat info is scarce. I inherited the rifle from an uncle who never got around to teaching me his loads. I have the rifle but no access to his stuff. Its been a year and I'm now anxious to load up and do some shooting. I have to start from scratch so any expirienced advice is helpful. A visit to the gunsmith before starting is definetly on the list.
 
I'm no expert, but if you've got a question about this one, I'm willing to attempt an edumucated answer as it relates to my rifle/results.

I've had best luck with Federal Match Large Rifle Magnum primers and the LRM from CCI. Best powder has been IMR4350. I've tried IMR4064, IMR4895 and H4831 to lesser extent. Tempted to try some MRP, but I'm happy with the 4350 and sticking with it.

I do not seat the bullets to spec. The Hornady 190bt has a canelure to crimp in, but that canelure is more than 3/16" out of the case neck when all is said and done. With whatever bullet I'm using, there's at least one bullet diameter seated in the neck. Most ogives provide me with .015" set back from the barrel lands. Seems to be optimum in my rifle. Having your chamber slugged will provide you with a lot of information of where to start. As with any magnum load, start at the bottom of the loading chart, not below, but never more than mid way. Don't be surprised at inaccurate loads. Bullets that work great in my 30-06, aren't optimum in my 30-338. Once an accurate loading is found for your rifle, then experament with loads for velocity/accuracy. All the tricks are in your reloading manuals. But of the printed versions, I think the only one that lists the 30-338 separate from the .308 Norma is the Seirra rifle binder. Powder charges for both are not identical.

Once the brass is fireformed, I only neck size. I fireform with Nosler seconds from my local store. They're cheap and at that point, I'm not concerned if they even hit paper. Case length for me is trimmed to 2.505". That's a little long by spec in the book, but functions well. I do not ream the case necks for uniformity, although I'd suppose that might lead to some better accuracy.

I can digitally photo cases from start to finish if you need it.

There's not much that can walk away from this medium magnum in North America. The previous owner of my rifle had taken more than one Moose with it. One shot kills from well placed bullets. He took a Coyote at ~300yds in front of my eyes the morning I bought it. I have taken several deer with my rifle. One of these days I'll take another Bear and maybe Elk. Bigger animals it was designed for.

-Steve
 
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