Marlin 1894C

Status
Not open for further replies.

SteadyD

Member
Joined
May 5, 2017
Messages
1,747
Is the 1894C still drop safe if you remove the cross bolt safety? Is there a hammer block or something similar?

Does the 1894C reliably cycle 38 special ammo?

Are the current production models decent quality?
 
I can't answer your first question, since mine still has the safety.

Mine does reliably handle .38 Special, even shorty 130 gr loads, but YMMV.

Mine is also a JM model, so I can't speak for quality, but I did purchase a recent Remlin 1895GBL, and it is GTG.
 
Mine has the 'half cock' with cross bolt safety. Check yours. Also has no problem with 38spl.
 
I have a 70s something 1894C. Yes it works fine with 38Spcl. But you got me thinking. Mine doesn't have a cross bolt. safety. But I'm not sure if it has a hammer transfer safety like some other guns. So just a old half cock hammer can shear and fire. If it has a cross bolt safety that will be a solid block that will block the hammer if hit. A hammer block will not stop a hammer from being knocked forward but it will not hit the firing pin because the trigger is not pulled filling the space between the hammer and firing pin. Some modern guns have a hammer block plus cross bolt safety. I don't mean to be confusing. Good luck
 
Considering the two piece firing pin safety on Marlin 1894s is really for firing out of battery prevention, the half cock safety notch is all there is if you disable the cross bolt safety.

If you do keep the lever opened a bit, the two piece firing pin won't be aligned and the trigger block keeps the trigger from dropping the hammer. But it's so easy for the lever to get fully closed and bypass those two things.

Honestly, I like the cross bolt safety. The only downside to it IMO is that it doesn't block the trigger. Which means you can drop the hammer with the safety on and miss a shot.
 
Last edited:
BTW, my Marlin 1894 CSBL is a late 2019 gun made in Ilion, N.Y.

It cycles .38 Special well enough, but sometimes requires the so called Marlin "double clutch" when the .38s are moving up on the carrier and getting in front of the bolt prior to being chambered. The .357 cartridges don't exhibit this issue in my gun.
 
The first question has been answered. As to question 2 & 3...

The 1894 will reliably cycle 38spl. But you might find with firing a volume of 38 that if you decide to start firing 357 that the cartridge will be difficult to cycle. This is caused by residue building up in the chamber. It’s an easy fix. Clean the gun. And the last question. You need to define decent. The new rifles seem to have little to no F&F issues. But if you expect “perfect”, don’t use the word “decent”. They aren’t the same thing. The problems seem to happen more in the 2009-2015/16 models.
 
My early 80's 1894c reliably cycles 38's as long as I cycle the lever deliberately and not super fast. If I try to rip through a magazine as fast as I can it'll jam within the first couple shots. There's no issue running it with .357's as fast as I can move the lever.

And while I've not looked at a new production 1894c, from what I've read online the 2019 and newer production guns are good to go.
 
“Cycle it deliberately with .38’s” is what a friend told me he does with his. I’m in the same boat with my Rossi 1892 copy when I shoot .38 rounds in it.
Stay safe.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top