Marlin 1984C ammo

[BunsenH]

Marlin 1894C ammo

As you can see, this is my first post. I used to lurk at TFL and now here. I've gained a lot of useful info and just plain entertainment. Thanks to all.

I just bought a Marlin 1894C just for fun. I still have to wait 6 more days (gotta love California). I will be using it only for punching holes in inanimate objects, mostly paper. I was looking for inexpensive plinking ammo and found a couple sources for 357 mag/38 special lead semi wad cutter rounds. These have no metal jacket. Since I have no revolver to use up ammo that doesn't work in my Marlin (maybe I'll have to remedy that) I have the following questions:

1) Will these feed reliable through my Marlin?
2) Will the lack of metal jacket cause barrel wear problems?
3) Will the lack of metal jacket cause health issues (outdoor range)?
4) Just for curiosity's sake, would these expand at all when striking a flesh-like target?

I also see a lot of data about velocity and energy of 357 mag/38 special rounds but this data is usually from a 4" barrel. Is there a site I can find similar numbers from an 18.5" barrel?

Thanks for reading this far and for any comments to come.

Edit: fixed title since I reversed the 8 and 9

 

[Kentucky Rifle]

I always read the manual two or three times...

And then I put it in my range bag.
Mine states NO wadcutters or shot shells.
I've had my 1894C for about a month now and what I like best (so far) is Gold Dot JSP's. (170gr)

KR

 

[Ohen Cepel]

Unless they have changed the rifling don't put lead in it. I think some of the cowboy guns have standard rifling that will shoot lead.

Some high speed 125's may not do well in it, expand too much, too fast.

I prefer the 180gr's for hunting/defense usage. Or you can have a handloader make up some loads designed for rifle usage if you can't find any.

For plinking I would just go with inexpensive FMJ stuff.

I would not worry about firing unjacketed ammo, indoor or out.

You have a great gun, hope you enjoy it!

I would suggest a peep sight for the rear. Makes it faster (with the aperture out) and more accurate since your sight plain gets increased by about 6in's. Willaims made the one I put on mine.

Good Luck.

 

[Preacherman]

OC, I think that all Marlins in pistol calibers now have the Ballard-style rifling. They began this with their Cowboy models, and have been moving other production over to it for the past few years. I don't know about their .30-30's, but the Cowboy model I have definitely has the Ballard rifling, although a 336 doesn't.

 

[BunsenH]

Ok, so SEMI wadcutters are wadcutters.

I think about the only instruction manuals I actually read are from my firearms. I was just trying to stock up a little before I get the rifle so I can shoot as soon as I get it. I guess to be sure it'll be FMJ or JSP.

Does anybody have a reference for handgun bullet velocities out of rifles?

 

[ChristopherG]

To go back to your initial questions:

1) KR discussed
2) NO. Lead is softer and thus wears barrels less, not more, than copper, which is harder. Depending on how fast you drive lead bullets, and what kind of lead it is, you may develop another problem, that of lead accumulating in the barrel. Not a big problem, since it can be scrubbed out--but at least a potential hassle, and a short-term detriment to accuracy.
3) DON'T KNOW; but in the absence of absolutely reliable info about the long term effects of lead exposure through bullet vapor (and I mean solid data, not anecdotes), I've decided to shoot only--or almost only--jacketed bullets. That doesn't mean they have to be FMJ, just that the back end has to enclosed, rather than exposed to hot gasses. That leaves you a perfectly useful range of JHPs and JSPs, as well as plated bullets.
4) Lead semi-wadcutters are not designed to expand. Unlikely they're loaded hot enough to deform significantly.

.357 rifle velocities have been discussed here and at the Firing Line; try searching for 357 and rifle

cg

 

[BunsenH]

Thank you everyone for the good info.