Marlin .45-70

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Flitz is a metal polish, a Google search should net you vendors near you. A little dab once a year or so should do nicely. It also has a protective coating that'll add just one more layer of protection, in addition to a little oil on it too.
 
I wouldn't want a ported version either!! I'll be taking my Guide Gun on an off-roading trip next week just in case I spot some pigs or goats (primarily pigs) and I don't plan on spending the whole day driving around with plugs in my ears!

:)
 
1858,
Is that a XLR converted to a straight lever/walnut furniture plus the XS sight/rail? Or was it a special run? Either way, it's outstanding looking :D !
 
JK47 said:
1858, Is that a XLR converted to a straight lever/walnut furniture plus the XS sight/rail? Or was it a special run? Either way, it's outstanding looking

I swapped the stock, trigger plate and lever between the standard Guide Gun and the XLR and added XS Lever Rails to both. I did this before the SBL was announced. I don't really care for the XLR look now to be honest. The barrel is way too long for my taste. As I mentioned, I plan on cutting the barrel down. The '95 is available with a 22" barrel and looks good in that configuration but I was thinking along the lines of a 20" barrel if I chop it.

:)
 
Cosmoline said:
Alaska's not a bad place for rust. It's a far bigger problem in the deep south than it is here.
Yep, much of AK is desert, the SE ConUS (specifically near the coast) is humid and much harder on a rifle.

Abel said:
You heard wrong......probably from hearing damage induced by those ports.
LOL, very true. I don't own a rifle with porting or a brake, and would have a hard time buying one that had it.

:)
 
cmdc said:
So, the extra barrel length doesn't improve ballistics?

Not really.

Abel said:
It gives some extra FPS.

Not a significant amount in my experience.

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:)
 
My suggestion would be to do an initial cleaning, taking it down as far as you're comfortable with... and polish all metal with some Flitz metal polish. You'll find all sorts of "rusty brown" color coming off the blued finish (not visible intially). The shine of the blued metal will then be enhanced also. Then... a good coat of carnuba paste wax on metal and wood stock. I will swab the bore with Flitz also and then run a patch/cleaning jag a number of times... and finally some light gun oil mopped inside, and another patch.
Obama, do NOT go to Arizona, they require proof of Citizenship.

Ratdog68, I love that.
 
You dont need the stainless. Get the regular version, blued is tough, I've had mine for 10 years not a drop of rust and i've taken it with me through snow,rain, and cold weather similar to coastal alaska... i live in southeastern new york and come deer season there are a lot of ice storms/snow storms/ rain storms, known as NORTHEASTERS. Correction i've had it for 8 years sinc eI was 16, and i've take it thru the thickest nastiest conditions imaginable... swamps, spruce thickets that rips your arms and face when you walk thru them, rain, snow, ice. You name it and if I handed you my gun now you could not tell the difference between it and a brand new one. Granted I do BASIC maintenance on the gun... you have to treat it like your car...change your oil, do you tune up. I got a boresnake and i run one thru my bore soaked with solvent after every hunting trip... i always keep everything lightly oiled on the rifle, even the bore. You could always get a stainless model down the road, but if you anticipate that your going to be hunting very soon and need the gun i wouldn't hold off just to buy a stainless version. If you need to put meet in the freezer or if you just wanna have fun to get out, don't let the fact that you don't have a stainless steel gun hold you back from enjoy your life. These gun magazine writers oughta be ashamed of themselves for painting a picture of paranoia into peoples minds about their blued/wood guns. They exaggerate the facts so it keeps their advertising advertising in their magazines and keeps their pockets lined.

Alot of manufacturers and gun magazines who are paid by the manufacturers and have a working relationships with each other are obviously going to blow out the proportion of the necessity of stainless steel. They wanna line their pockets so they exaggerate the truth a bit to get people to panic and buy stainless teel guns and think that its an indestructable gun. And they paint the picture that blued/wood guns will rust and fall apart like a cheap bb gun from a dollar store. Just like the SUV craze and now all suburbanites and soccer moms have one and you know 90% of trucks in a ditch are SUV's!! because people think they are fool proof and can do 75 in 1 foot of snow.. its crazy.

Don't buy into the BS.

Also the marlin stainless steel rifles are not fully stainless steel, mainly the barrel I believe, the action parts are coated or nickel plated.
 
I have the classic marlin 1895 with 22" barrel, I've done a lot of custom work to it, I had an extended magazine tube added by a gunsmith total cost was $300 between parts, gas, and gunsmith fee. I bought it for 500 or 600 bucks about 8 years ago when marlins were not the craze they are now. I would stay away from any ported versions, instead get a nice after-market recoil pad, I believe the SBL comes with an aftermarket recoil pad already installed. The reason is that a .45-70 is LOUDDDD. ITs really loud, when you fire it, its like a canon going off, you don't want to make it any louder than it has to be. Plus a nice soft recoil pad will do you just fine...african hunters don't port their barrels... and they survive elephant and rhino attacks. Get yourself an SBL or a GBL or a classic model. The only reason I would stay away from the XLR is that it has a LONG barrel, 24"... anything longer than 22" and the gun loses its intended purpose which is a compact easy handling gun with good knockdown power for up close encounters with dangerous game... when you start to go out past 22" it feels like your carrying a flagpole through the woods... if your gonna go witht he XLR just get the COWBOY... its only 2" longer but holds 8 rounds in the tube, and has an octagon barrel, and it has great balance and it looks great and handles great.
 
Adding to what 1858 posted about the barrel length vs. velocity.

With some of the light loads people like to shoot in the 45-70 (and some factory ammo)...the longer barrel will give LESS velocity.

I expect somebody may disagree with that, but its true...small dose of powder, the 45-70's expansion ratio = it happens.

There is a chart here with a few such loads on it...but I have seen it happen with my own 2 eyes also.

I recommend reading the whole article...but scroll down to find the chart.
http://www.leverguns.com/articles/marlin_4570.htm


22 inches is long enough...not knocking the Cowboy 1895, but it ain't my thang.
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Greg Koziol said:
Also the marlin stainless steel rifles are not fully stainless steel, mainly the barrel I believe, the action parts are coated or nickel plated.

The barrel, receiver, magazine tube and lever are all stainless. There are some small nickel plated parts on the stainless Marlins such as the loading gate, magzine end cap, trigger and rear band.

:)
 
quote>This is on Gun Broker:
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=181416866

The SBL has the XS Sight System/Rail (SS and black laminate stock).The GBL:blued-brown laminate, ABL: blued-black laiminate and the STBL:SS-walnut stock have the standard semi-buckhorn sights. FYI. <quote





I bought my GBL from this guy and he is ++++1. I chose the GBL 'cause I couldn't Find the SBL at the time and I decided I like the brown/blue better. I am going to put sights and rail on it soon and will post a pic.
 
Flitz is a metal polish--I use it to polish the bore on all my weapons every time I clean them.
Should find it at most hardware stores--ACE, ACO, Home Depot, etc.................
 
Thanks for all the input. I am going to get a GS model, and I think I will get the GBL model as well; keep the GBL in MO and take the GS to CO. I have another question of you guys since you have so much experience in these things, and that is: Give me a comparison between the .45-70 and a 12 gauge in mountainous areas where there really bears as well as the possibility of feral humans. I'm not trying to confuse the issue, just want some plus/minus kind of info.
 
The 45-70 might overpenetrate on the feral humans...but if you get them lined up in a row, and are shooting a good hardcast bullet of at least 400 grains...you could take 6-8 of them with a single round.

It might overpenetrate on bears too (if there is any such thing where bears are concerned).


About the only thing a 45-70 doesn't do well, when its in a handy rifle...is long range varmint hunting. But in a pinch, it could do that too...
 
I have another question of you guys since you have so much experience in these things, and that is: Give me a comparison between the .45-70 and a 12 gauge in mountainous areas where there really bears as well as the possibility of feral humans.
Two legged problems are solved equally well by either, equally true for bear defense with the right load. IMO the shotgun is just as good as the .45-70Govt. as long as you use a good slug like Brenneke KOs, but if you are hunting bear the .45-70Govt. will demonstrate a significant advantage in range.

:)
 
Those Brenneke's, are they rifled or does one need a rifled barrel?

Also, about the .45-70, what is a good all-around round? How is the Leverevolution compared to others in the Guide Gun?
 
One of these days I will get a 1895G...have wanted one for a long time. Last time I was going to buy one I went onto Bud's and was getting ready to buy one, but by the time I hit the checkout button someone had beat me too it...so I bought a .44Mag levergun with the money burning a hole in my pocket. An hour later there was another listed :-(
 
Those Brenneke's, are they rifled or does one need a rifled barrel?
They make both, but the rifled full-bore slugs is what you want. Also, I got it wrong, it is the Black Magic Magnums, not the KO that offers the best penetration.

Also, about the .45-70, what is a good all-around round? How is the Leverevolution compared to others in the Guide Gun?
I wouldn't choose LeveRevolution for bear, it is too light and too lightly constructed. You want a good expanding heavy (preferably 450gr+) dangerous game bullet (my preference), solid, or hard cast lead projectile for big bear (black bear can be taken with any suitable deer cartridge). Handloading is best, however folks like Garret and Buffalo Bore make stuff that is suitable (but very costly).

:)
 
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