Marlin 57 / Sears 44DL Repair Questions

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UpTheIrons

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Greetings all!

Believe it or not, I'm having a hard time getting answers over at RFC to these questions, so I thought I'd try here, too.

What I have is a Marlin 57 Levermatic rebranded as a Sears Model 44DL. The barrel stamp (JG) indicates a manufacture date of October 1963, yet the rollmark includes a serial number of 103.19XXX, which puzzles me a bit. Maybe that's an internal Sears thing?

I got it from my father, and he said he bought it in 1964 or '65, which jibes with the barrel stamp code. Anyway, on with the problems and pictures:

It has been well-loved over the last 45+ years. Here are two squirrels, the rifle and me in late 1973:
6133736708_4866e7e573_z.jpg


Along with cleaning it up, getting as much of the rust off as possible, and refinishing the stock, the main problem is that the safety doesn't work. Flip it forward and the gun will still fire.

My dad tried (many years ago) to do a home-brew trigger job and filed something down too far. He wasn't here when I did the takedown, so I called and asked - he said he filed down a part that had a cam on it. Not sure exactly what part he was talking about. I emailed him a picture of the internals, hoping he can remember, but I'm still waiting.

Nothing looks like it was filed down. After cleaning, it simply looks like normal wear that wore the bluing off the sear and hammer. With the safety slide forward in the "on" position, there is nothing that contacts anything to impede the movement of the trigger - the sear is free to release the hammer. How is the safety supposed to work?

I'll show the internals as we get there.


It is filthy!
4408718899_62808082c2_z.jpg


The sideplate assembly screw and washer fell out (the screw was broken) when I pulled the action out of the stock:
4409647442_5b6f270afc_z.jpg


With the lever open, the trigger block drops into place:
6133742872_83dccb79e3_z.jpg


And with the lever closed, eveything is as it should be:
6133195781_5698a6ef70_z.jpg


However, looking at the parts list at Numrich:
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Products.aspx?catid=3582
I seem to be missing part #63, the spacing sleeve.

A couple more gratuitous shots:

The filthy bolt is filthy
6133199933_20700a21b8_z.jpg


I have the entire rifle disassembled except for removing the barrel from the receiver. I would like to remove it to fix this problem:
6133201965_fba273d2e5_z.jpg


I have the barrel retaining pin out, and am soaking it in Breakfree CLP, but I'm not sure how to get the barrel out of the aluminum receiver without damaging it.

The front sight is missing, and my dad has no idea what he did with it. The threads in the barrel look really clean, so if I get the parts from Numrich (part numbers 39, 40 and 41 on the schematic above) is there anything special I should do to the threads before I install it, besides cleaning out the CLP with a Q-Tip?

This is what the internals (less pins and springs) look like after they've been cleaned. The bolt looks amazing compared to what it looked like in the earlier shot. Any hints on what to look for here?
6150452343_0f757263d3_z.jpg

The safety slide is flipped 180 degrees to show the 'nubs' that are supposed to work as the safety. I took a few measurements; in the photo above, the 'nub' on the right (just above the part that you slide with your finger) is 0.108" high, while the one in the middle of the slide is 0.152". The sear measures 0.111" where it contacts the hammer, and 0.116" where it contacts the trigger (and supposedly) the safety slide.

One last thing, the lever has damaged the stock somewhat. Any hints on how to repair this damage, or get the stain out?
6133426235_ba64c58cd6_z.jpg


Thank you for any help you can give!
 
deleted previous post cuz I missed something.....:banghead:

On the safety, it looks like you need to pre-load the trigger block so that the tail of it rides *under* the tab on the rear edge of the safety slide. If the tail of the trigger block is over that tab it can't pivot down to safe the trigger.

Brownell's sells a tool to iron out the firing pin divot on the breech face, so there's no real need to pull the barrel if you don't want to.

On the bolt... gently force open the extractors and clean any gunk out of the channels and make sure the extractors claws aren't rounded off.
 
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+1 on the Brownell's tool to swage out the firing pin divot over the chamber; I wouldn't remove the barrel unless I absolutely had to, if it was me.

For removing the dent in the stock, you might try steam. Scrub the spot with a wet Scotchbrite pad to get the dirt off, cover it with a wet washcloth, and press it with a hot steam iron. It's worked well to get dings and dents out of several old military gunstocks, prior to refinishing.
 
Thanks for the hints, guys.

The only problem with your suggestion on pre-loading the trigger block, RaceM, is that with the lever closed, the trigger block can't engage the trigger. It's hard to see in the "lever closed" photo above, but with the lever locked closed, the trigger block is pushed back by the lever so that it can't touch the trigger.

Also thanks for the Brownell's suggestion for the FP divot tool, and for the steam iron to the stock hint.

I'm ordering parts tomorrow anyway, so once they all come in, I'll see if the missing part has anything to do with making the safety slide engage better.
 
Yeah that occurred to me. How about with the lever open? In the pic the trigger block is down (trigger safed) which should allow the slide to be put on in the correct orientation.
 
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