Metalife SS Chromium applied after Gemeni Trigger action job - ruin the action?

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Have a question for those who know about such things:

I just purchased a Smith & Wesson Model 28 in excellent condition. It has a custom crowned and recessed barrel and a trigger action job done by Gemini customs. It currently wears a nice blued finish.

However, for reasons not worth mentioning, I need a corrosion resistant finish. This is not going to be collectors piece, but user.

So, I was thinking about sending it off to Ron Mahovsky for a Metalife SS Chromium finish.

MY QUESTION IS: Will the Metalife SS chromium finish application ruin the custom trigger action job done by Gemini?

thanks.
 
Will the Metalife SS chromium finish application ruin the custom trigger action job done by Gemini?

I think I recall reading that this plating is not thick enough to affect the dimensions or clearances of parts, but can't say for sure. Do you really need to plate the action parts? They would be removed to plate the rest of the gun anyway.
 
Do you really need to plate the action parts? They would be removed to plate the rest of the gun anyway.

It's probably not absolutely necessary, but I may be in a humid environment with this firearm in the future, and I'd like all parts to be protected (even the internals since I won't be readily in there with maintenance).
 
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I do not think it will be thick enough to make a difference but you may want to go straight to the source and as Ron. Yes, you do want to plate the action parts. If you're going to the trouble of having it done and you want corrosion resistance, every little pin, part and screw should be plated. The only thing I regret about my lone hard chrome custom Ruger is that I did not get a matte blued, pinned front sight.
 
I've asked a established pistolsmith the same question before...to determine which order to have work done...it was pertaining to a Sig, but it should be just as applicable.

He recommended, if you wanted it done right (bet your life on it), that the action work be done first, then sent to the refinisher, than returned to the tuner to touch it up/ensure all surfaces were within tolerance
 
I've asked a established pistolsmith the same question before...to determine which order to have work done...it was pertaining to a Sig, but it should be just as applicable.

He recommended, if you wanted it done right (bet your life on it), that the action work be done first, then sent to the refinisher, than returned to the tuner to touch it up/ensure all surfaces were within tolerance

That makes sense. Of course, I'd hate to incur the additional cost and time of shipping back to Gemini for service.

I wonder if local Phoenix, AZ gunsmith could do the same on some else's original work?
 
That would have to be your choice, base on how good you think your local gunsmith is.

When asked, I usually recommend sending it to your gunsmith first, have them send it to the finisher, then returned to the gunsmith for cleanup work before being returned to you. It saves on shipping cost...FFLs can use the USPS to ship handguns...and be faster
 
A hard chrome finish applied to the action not only doesn't ruin a action job, it actually enhances it.

The hard chrome is "slick" and hard. This actually improves the action even farther.
Since most gunsmiths are smart enough not to alter the hammer or trigger contact surfaces, action work is usually composed of smoothing certain parts and surfaces and possibly replacing one or two springs.

The hard chrome makes the already smooth surfaces slide even better due to the slippery nature of the hard chrome.
The only gun that might need a post-hard chrome adjustment would be an automatic with a match grade trigger.
Revolvers should need no work after the plating.

Hard chrome is typically applied in a layer only 0.0002" thick so it doesn't interfere with parts fit like thicker plated finishes like bright nickel does.
By all means talk to Mahovsky, he's been in the gun plating business almost from the beginning.
 
No. In fact, it should improve it.

I hate to think of you ruining a beautiful gun like that, as much as I like the plating you mentioned. Here's a Beretta 70S auto I had plated by Mahosky's. They did an outstanding job and the gun shoots flawlessly.


Beretta70S_Metalife_1.gif

Beretta70S_plated_2a.gif
 
No. In fact, it should improve it.

I hate to think of you ruining a beautiful gun like that, as much as I like the plating you mentioned. Here's a Beretta 70S auto I had plated by Mahosky's. They did an outstanding job and the gun shoots flawlessly.

That little Beretta looks sharp. I prefer the blued steel finish the Model 28 wears now. The previous owner had it completely re-blued (hot-blued) when he had the barrel crowned and recessed. It's much richer than the original dull bluing of the 28 and uniform throughout.

However, I'll be in humid Florida swamp weather with this revolver. - been known to turn bluing pink in a matter of days.

So a new finish is necessary.

One last question: Can Ron Mahovsky polish his work to shiny(ish) finish?
I doubt he can do a polish reminiscent of an original nickel model 27, but maybe he can do something along those lines, or so I was thinking.

I'm going to call him soon enough with these questions once I'm ready to ship it out, just thought I'd see what others think here.

Thanks for your help.
 
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dfariswheel said:
A hard chrome finish applied to the action not only doesn't ruin a action job, it actually enhances it.

The hard chrome is "slick" and hard. This actually improves the action even farther.
Since most gunsmiths are smart enough not to alter the hammer or trigger contact surfaces, action work is usually composed of smoothing certain parts and surfaces and possibly replacing one or two springs.

The hard chrome makes the already smooth surfaces slide even better due to the slippery nature of the hard chrome.
The only gun that might need a post-hard chrome adjustment would be an automatic with a match grade trigger.
Revolvers should need no work after the plating.

Hard chrome is typically applied in a layer only 0.0002" thick so it doesn't interfere with parts fit like thicker plated finishes like bright nickel does.

All points are true, provided the plater follows the process specs. It looks like this one does.

I will add one point about this. The chromium plate is no better than the metal underneath. All pits and scratches must be polished out before plating. Plating over pits, scratches and tool marks will leave thin places with little plating. It also leaves every flaw more visible. It is important that the action parts be reworked before finishing.
 
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