Mini 14 Chop

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LJH

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I have read that cutting down the Mini 14 barrel will improve accuracy.
Does anyone know what the optimal length is? I can cut this down and crown it at the gas block if needed. I will machine and permanently attach a muzzle break to keep it 16+ inches.
 
We turned one down to 16.25" awhile back and installed a KA-1822 on it, shooting around 1 MOA now. Takes a little more than just cutting the barrel to improve the accuracy, there are several other things on the Mini14 that need to be checked also.

Picture088-1.gif
 
the mini-14's barrel is notoriously thin. once a few rounds go through the pipe, the barrel warms up and you start getting "flyers." cutting down the barrel will help alleviate much of this as there is less length to flex.
 
Biggest problem w/the Mini's barrel is harmonics. Cutting the barrel back and/or adding a muzzle brake or flash hider changes the harmonics, usually w/improved accuracy (remember the BOSS system? Same principle...). A good trigger job & ensuring the gas block screws are properly torqued will help as well. On my 580 I had the bbl cut to 16.5", added a flash hider, did the trigger job/gas block torque and cut my groups in half (to appx 1.25" 3-shot groups at 100yds using a scope & the Winchester 45gr varmint load).
Tomac
 
Ok, so I think I kinda get the whole harmonics things.
But, does it hold true for all barrels? Or does it only apply to rifles with thin barrels like the mini-14?
 
Or you could install one of these http://www.accu-strut.com/ and a muzzle break. I made my own strut did a poor mans trigger job retorqued the gas block and free floated the barrel. My Mini is a 1 inch or better rifle at 100yd with my reloads. If you make front and rear buffers out of vacuum belts and install a smaller gas port bushing your Mini will handle like a 10-22. If you are shooting factory ammo American Eagle 50gr flat bottom shot the best of all the factory ammo i tried.

Mike
 
This does not hold true for all barrels, mostly true for a bad design. (mini14) The trade off is the shorter the barrel the more energy wasted at the muzzle. This translates to slower velocity.
 
I would like to see what the new NRA Mini-14 is capable of, with the factory short heavy barrel, but I certainly won't pay over a grand to find out!
 
Don't waste your time with the Accu-strut, they don't help much. Another problem with the Mini is that the gas system makes the thin barrel flex also.
 
This does not hold true for all barrels, mostly true for a bad design.
Click to expand...

No, it applies to all barrels, but the heavier and shorter a barrel is, the less "whip" it will get when fired. On the Mini you have a long skinny barrel which is effected badly by barrel whip, varying loads will cause different frequencies and different points of impact.
 
I've often wondered why they don't offer this...within the AR lines the 16 and 20 Hbar tend to be some of the most popular models...clearly it is what people would want in the mini (the weight increase would be minimal in a 16" version) Of course when you look at it the charging handle/piston (whatever you wanna call it) it needs the skinnier bbl. contour for clearance there -but I would think you could easily redesign that one part to match a heavier bbl. even if a small span was only a "heavier bbl" in that area and compensate with a heavier spring or increased mass elswhere on the part or simply adjusting the gasport size or some combination. Would it be simple...no -it would require 4-8 new parts but it would probably be the most popular 2 models they have (I'd have a 16" iron sighted and a 20" no sight H-bar model that included a picatiny rail adapter between the existing scope mounts with possibly a slight rise for clearance...even if it had to be flared or cut down some in the ejection area on right side. The 16" Hbar would sell for about what the current NRA model does (wholesale is about $100-120 more that a regular mini) They should also come with match grade triggers (which 4 pounds from the factory would let them get away with calling it that...spring changes could buy you that much)

They would sell and be a good value...the current NRA model would sell like hot cakes if it was the same price as the current regular blued/wood mini (they can dump the hogue stock) THAT would be a good value....unlike their current pricing and models. I like the new mini (I bought one so I must)...but they need someone running things that is actually a shooter and has his feet grounded in reallity on pricing and what the American consumer is willing to spend. At present most shooters like the mini at some level but want (I believe) something more along the lines of what I've described...and they will not pay any more than the current prices for them...because anything more and you can just go buy an AR-15 that will outshoot their guns out of the box in most cases and offer simple modular upgrades. Make it a shooter and yeah...some would pay just as much as a decent AR for it because it's different and neat. But it has to put out to cost that much.

Yet the regular mini has a basic lineage and look and feel that American shooters love...I've wanted to love it all my life and really do love my new 580 series. (now that they finally shoot as good as a $150 chinese SKS) I love the way it feels and shoots. It truly is a cross between a M1 carbine and an M14 ...and with prices of those these days it's not completely unreasonable in price. It will afterall digest cheap wolf .223 all day long without a problem (something many AR's can or at least should not IMHO) It also shoots GI ball and handdloaded ammo very well. It's not picky or finnicky and it's just a lot of fun. But for God sake why don't they address the shortcomings they are still missing? They've cut down on the number of versions with the range/mini they now have...adding a couple models that would be hugely popular makes sense...I aplaud their match rifle they put out and the new 16" carbine (which other than price is exactly what many people wanted all along!) But they missed the mark on the target model by not making it a true bull bbl. Though the dampner system clearly can get the job done (check it out on youtube)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z89nJ5zA4bI
 
This is my #197 Ranch Rifle and some 100yd targets from the last time i went to the range. These are the mods i did.

Installed a smaller gas port bushing and retorqued the gas block.
Trigger job by blowtorch from a gritty Ruger pull to a clean 4lb pull
Weaver see-through scope rings with Leupold Rifleman 3-9 scope.
Milled M1 Carbine backup sights.
Renforced forearm swivel stud for bi-pod.
Front and rear buffers by Dirt Devil turns the Minis oprod chadder in to a
smooth bounce.
Muzzle break and homemade barrel strut

Mini 001.jpg (37.7 KB)
Mini%2014%20003.jpg (2.8 KB)
Mini 004.jpg (24.9 KB)
Mini 003.jpg (30.0 KB)
 
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silverlance said:
the newest minis have all of those aforementioned upgrades stock.
Click to expand...
No they don't.

The NRA model has a shorter, heavier barrel, but still has a <poor> trigger pull and the same old banging and battering of the gas system.

The Target model is still just close to being a great thing, but it's like the Mini itself - ALMOST a really good rifle.

I own an old non-Ranch Mini and love it, but it's at best a mediocre rifle.
 
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Still, all other factors considered, at what point does chopping the barrel no longer help.
 
Still, all other factors considered, at what point does chopping the barrel no longer help.
Click to expand...

We usually cut most/all of the last really thin section of the barrel off. This eliminates the weakest point in the equation. I've heard that going 14" and permanently attaching a brake offers the best results, but the last one we did is getting around 1 MOA with a 16" barrel and threaded brake. Also a 14" barrel doesn't give the best stability and speed to a .223 round so I'd be hesistant to add that factor into the mix.
 
Thanks Kingjoey, I am off to the workshop. It looks as if it is time to remove the thin part.
I will be sure to record before and after results.
 
Be sure to take the barrel off first unless your lathe has a pass-thru head on it. Don't do a "hacksaw job" on it. If you run into trouble shoot me an email at [email protected] or call us during business hours and I'll help ya as much as I can.
 
Wow what a leap year, I had no idea that it would make work so crazy.

OK here is my baseline. Off of a bench, open sights, 5 five shot groups at 50 yds. using Winchester white box.
5.75" 7.75" 10.0" 7.25" 6.26"

This is much worse that I remember it being so just to make sure it wasn't me, with my AR open sights 50 yds, same ammo, 1.5" 2.0" 1.75"

With luck Monday wont be as busy and I can finish up the barrel.
 
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