I have a mixture of .38Spl brass (Magtech, Hornady, Speer, Remington, etc.). Will a reloader have to sort the brass by make, or can they use all of it at once? Also, some of the brass is nickel plated (from self-defense loadings). Is this any good? Also, what would a good price be for 100 pieces of once-fired .38Spl brass?
Mixed Brass for Reloading?
- Thread starter HGM22
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For light to medium plinking loads you don’t need to sort handgun brass. It will make a small difference round to round, but not enough to cause problems. For super accurate long range loads sorting may be beneficial. The nickel brass is just fine to reload, but may not last for as many loads. New 38Spl. brass sells for $13.00 per 100.
9mmfan
Member
i have never run into any issues with mixed brass (.38 Special and .45 Colt.)
That being said, my only experience has been plinking-type ammo, though they are semi-wadcutters. Relatively low numbers to boot.
I use a Lee Classic Turret Press.
If über accurate match loads were the goal, might be more persnickety.
Straight-walled pistol (or revolver for you purists) cartridges are somewhat more forgiving for this sort of thing, at least the way I understand it.
As for the nickel plated, don't recall if I have loaded those up or not. As I recall, common advice states that until the plating begins to peel, you should be alright.
Again, just personal limited experience.
Wiser heads may expound upon my statements.
In regards to price, can't say. What I have loaded have started out as factory until I emptied 'em. Excepting some reloads what came with my used Rossi '92 (.45 Colt, believe it was Starline if memory serves.)
Be safe and enjoy.
That being said, my only experience has been plinking-type ammo, though they are semi-wadcutters. Relatively low numbers to boot.
I use a Lee Classic Turret Press.
If über accurate match loads were the goal, might be more persnickety.
Straight-walled pistol (or revolver for you purists) cartridges are somewhat more forgiving for this sort of thing, at least the way I understand it.
As for the nickel plated, don't recall if I have loaded those up or not. As I recall, common advice states that until the plating begins to peel, you should be alright.
Again, just personal limited experience.
Wiser heads may expound upon my statements.
In regards to price, can't say. What I have loaded have started out as factory until I emptied 'em. Excepting some reloads what came with my used Rossi '92 (.45 Colt, believe it was Starline if memory serves.)
Be safe and enjoy.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
I sort everything by headstamp.
You might be surprised how many reloading problems it will save you on down the road, sooner or later.
It's a simple matter to sort them while inspecting each one for defects.
Which you should be doing anyway.
rc
You might be surprised how many reloading problems it will save you on down the road, sooner or later.
It's a simple matter to sort them while inspecting each one for defects.
Which you should be doing anyway.
rc
ReloaderFred
Member
I stopped sorting by handgun headstamp years ago, when all my testing on targets proved that mixed brass produced groups as tight as sorted brass. My testing was only done at 25 yards, since that's what I normally shoot at these days.
Handloader Magazine did a test a few issues back and in their testing they also proved that mixed brass didn't make any difference. It's your shop, though, so you can use any practice you wish, since you make the rules.
Hope this helps.
Fred
Handloader Magazine did a test a few issues back and in their testing they also proved that mixed brass didn't make any difference. It's your shop, though, so you can use any practice you wish, since you make the rules.
Hope this helps.
Fred
Sapper771
Member
I use mixed pistol brass for range fodder. Serious pistol and rifle get separated by headstamp.
Zeke/PA
Member
I sort all brass by headstamp just because it's the way that I am.
I do not sort my cases for general plinking loads.
But, once in a while, I stumble into a case or two that causes problems reloading or even chambering. Generally, they are some off brand case but not always. Generally, these problem cases have come from either range pick ups or purchasing once fired range cases.
The problem cases get scrapped.
I've stopped accumulating range pick up or purchasing once fired cases. Weeding out the problem cases is not worth my time these days.
But, once in a while, I stumble into a case or two that causes problems reloading or even chambering. Generally, they are some off brand case but not always. Generally, these problem cases have come from either range pick ups or purchasing once fired range cases.
The problem cases get scrapped.
I've stopped accumulating range pick up or purchasing once fired cases. Weeding out the problem cases is not worth my time these days.
Blue68f100
Member
I sort all my brass except 9mm. I have noticed a difference in accuracy with mixed head stamps. For general practice I see no need. But if your a BE shooter most all do sort. For different head stamps have a slightly different case volume and hardness. 25 yrds and less I see very little change in accuracy. It's when you move out to 50 yrds that the differences start showing up.
Hangingrock
Member
It simply doesn't make enough difference to separate brass by head stamp with in reason. Lets see on hand Winchester-WWC (crimped primer), Remington, Federal-Speer-Blazer, RWs, and Geco. the only nettlesome issue is removing the primer crimp on WWC as an example.
Then take into consideration the distance that most individuals shoot at which appears to be 10-7 yards or less.
Then take into consideration the distance that most individuals shoot at which appears to be 10-7 yards or less.
Ironicaintit
Member
I sort mine...sort of. I do like consistency, so I do trim them all to the same length. Then I load them all as normal with the same recipe, and headstamps get sorted out after the fact.
With 38spcl/357, I havent noticed any difference at all with grouping, or the way they feel being assembled, so I dont mind too much about mixed stamps. (Other than, mixed stamps in a single box drives me nuts)
But there are others, like with 45acp, where some brands single themselves out and really should be treated differently than the rest.
R-P for example; fine for cast, but neck tension is not enough for jacketed.
With 38spcl/357, I havent noticed any difference at all with grouping, or the way they feel being assembled, so I dont mind too much about mixed stamps. (Other than, mixed stamps in a single box drives me nuts)
But there are others, like with 45acp, where some brands single themselves out and really should be treated differently than the rest.
R-P for example; fine for cast, but neck tension is not enough for jacketed.
AABEN
Member
I only do my rifle brass and trim when needed. Do as you like.
TimSr
Member
I sort it because it's easy, and you can easily keep it togther ina box when dealing with revolver rounds. With special purpose ammo, hunting or defense, I'm a lot more diligent about consistancy in every aspect. For plinking ammo, not so much.
Nickel reloads fine too. Doesn't tarnish from your fingers like brass, so I like it for defense and hunting ammo that may get handled multiple times before being fired.
I'd never purchase .38 brass for reloading when you can buy the factory ammo with reloadable brass for about the same price. A lot of Blazer ammo is boxer primed brass and as cheap as buying brass. I got a lot my .38 brass from people who shot it, put themties back in the box, and dropped the box in the trash.
Nickel reloads fine too. Doesn't tarnish from your fingers like brass, so I like it for defense and hunting ammo that may get handled multiple times before being fired.
I'd never purchase .38 brass for reloading when you can buy the factory ammo with reloadable brass for about the same price. A lot of Blazer ammo is boxer primed brass and as cheap as buying brass. I got a lot my .38 brass from people who shot it, put themties back in the box, and dropped the box in the trash.
Jim Watson
Member
Mixed pistol brass is fine for practice and the IDPA matches that are my main use these days.
Sorted brass for chronograph and benchrest testing.
Once fired brass for defense loads, if you swing that way.
Sorted brass for chronograph and benchrest testing.
Once fired brass for defense loads, if you swing that way.
Metal God
Member
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I'll start by saying I'm new-ish to pistol loading ( 1000rds or so ) Mostly load development because I'm not a big pistol shooter . I have been reloading rifle for awhile now though .
I keep hearing guys say not sorting pistol brass is no big deal . Now the fact I have few rounds really tested for accuracy . I can't say mixed brass has an effect on accuracy . That is all that is ever mentioned when guys talk about mixed brass . I have found another issue that is WAY more important then accuracy that never seems to get talked about when debating mixed pistol brass .
I load 9mm and 45acp and no 38/44spl so my observation may be different in the rimmed cartridges of wheel guns . I have found the wall thickness of the brass to matter a great deal . In 45acp I have found R.P. - PPU - Aguila & a couple others have thinner walls then Fed - Win - Speer & others .
Why does this mater IMO so much ? When I noticed the thin to thicker wall differences I started separating the bass as such ( thick wall , thin wall batches ) Now when my dies are set up for the thick walled cases . They do not work the brass the same on the thin walled cases ( mostly the Flare and crimp stations ) . They flare more and crimp less . Now if one of the thin walled cases gets in the thick walled lots . When that case is loaded and the dies are set up for the thicker walled cases . I get very little bullet hold and half the crimp .
How does this effect the round . I get huge bullet set back do to the firearm being an auto loader . I had one round set back .070 and failed to chamber ( thank god ) . The one nice thing is I can tell almost head stamp to head stamp what manufacturers case I'm loading at a given time do to the feel of the press . Because of that I knew I had loaded that thin walled case and had marked it so I could observe the effects .
OK so I just set up the dies for the thin walled cases and that will work for the thicker walled cases ??? Well yes if you want less flare and double the crimp on half your cases/rounds . For me that just does not sound right . Knowingly excepting inconsistent rounds is hard for me to do . That's likely do to me loading very consistent rifle rounds for years before ever loading one pistol round . I'm having a hard time separating the two and how I load for each .
That's what I've found to be an issue with mixing brass for pistol auto loaders .
I keep hearing guys say not sorting pistol brass is no big deal . Now the fact I have few rounds really tested for accuracy . I can't say mixed brass has an effect on accuracy . That is all that is ever mentioned when guys talk about mixed brass . I have found another issue that is WAY more important then accuracy that never seems to get talked about when debating mixed pistol brass .
I load 9mm and 45acp and no 38/44spl so my observation may be different in the rimmed cartridges of wheel guns . I have found the wall thickness of the brass to matter a great deal . In 45acp I have found R.P. - PPU - Aguila & a couple others have thinner walls then Fed - Win - Speer & others .
Why does this mater IMO so much ? When I noticed the thin to thicker wall differences I started separating the bass as such ( thick wall , thin wall batches ) Now when my dies are set up for the thick walled cases . They do not work the brass the same on the thin walled cases ( mostly the Flare and crimp stations ) . They flare more and crimp less . Now if one of the thin walled cases gets in the thick walled lots . When that case is loaded and the dies are set up for the thicker walled cases . I get very little bullet hold and half the crimp .
How does this effect the round . I get huge bullet set back do to the firearm being an auto loader . I had one round set back .070 and failed to chamber ( thank god ) . The one nice thing is I can tell almost head stamp to head stamp what manufacturers case I'm loading at a given time do to the feel of the press . Because of that I knew I had loaded that thin walled case and had marked it so I could observe the effects .
OK so I just set up the dies for the thin walled cases and that will work for the thicker walled cases ??? Well yes if you want less flare and double the crimp on half your cases/rounds . For me that just does not sound right . Knowingly excepting inconsistent rounds is hard for me to do . That's likely do to me loading very consistent rifle rounds for years before ever loading one pistol round . I'm having a hard time separating the two and how I load for each .
That's what I've found to be an issue with mixing brass for pistol auto loaders .
Sunray
Member
Doesn't make any difference if you sort or not. Doesn't matter for bullseye shooting or any of the shooting games either.
Nickel plated cases are just that. Brass cases that have been plated. Only difference is that they might get cracked case mouths a bit faster. Or they might have nickel flaking off. Loaded exactly the same way any case is loaded. No trimming, ever.
BNIB .38 brass starts at roughly $15(Armscor from Graf's) per 100, but it'll vary according to where you are and where you buy.
If you find +P brass, there's nothing special about it. Stamped that way for the factory only.
Nickel plated cases are just that. Brass cases that have been plated. Only difference is that they might get cracked case mouths a bit faster. Or they might have nickel flaking off. Loaded exactly the same way any case is loaded. No trimming, ever.
BNIB .38 brass starts at roughly $15(Armscor from Graf's) per 100, but it'll vary according to where you are and where you buy.
If you find +P brass, there's nothing special about it. Stamped that way for the factory only.
In my personal experience and a few articles I've read, sorting by headstamp is of no advantage for accuracy in handguns. I've read of mixed brass vs. one mfg. brass using a Ransom rest and there was actually no descernable improvement in accuracy with sorted brass. My "testing" has shown much the same results. But, I cant think of a good reason not to sort, if that's what you want to do. (I still sort many of my cases out of a 30 year old habit). So, no, it's not necessary to sort brass, but no "law" against it either...
Personal preference!
Personal preference!
I don't sort by headstamp for anything but NRA highpower rifle and I doubt it makes a difference there either but when shooting 600 yards, I like to reduce the variables.
I never worked up loads for brass brands so I don't have a different load for each brand of brass. I haven't noticed any practical differences in accuracy with mixed brass.
I never worked up loads for brass brands so I don't have a different load for each brand of brass. I haven't noticed any practical differences in accuracy with mixed brass.
ColoradoShooter77
Member
I sort my rifle brass, because it makes a significant difference in long range shooting.
For pistol, I just load the pile of brass, not worth my time to sort it.
For pistol, I just load the pile of brass, not worth my time to sort it.
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