mobil 1 after bluing?

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old fart

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i am bluing a revolver with super blue, it has done a good job for a cold blue. the directions say to use barricade but all i have is mobile 1, will this be ok to soak the gun in for a few days till the bluing is cured? thanks
 
I wouldn't know why not.

Oil is oil.

And cold blue is cold blue.

No matter what you soak it in, it won't stay looking that good very long.

rc
 
Years ago I heard cold blue could be used to touch up color-case hardening..at the time I took it with a grain of salt & forgot about it. Then I needed to touch up a small shiny spot and a small scratch on a vintage rifle..I remembered the cold blue advice. I tried Birchwood Casey..no good, I then tried Brownells Oxo-Blue..used a tiny bit on end of toothpick..rubbing in with Q Tip, both spot & scratch dissapered! I then coated with Break Free CLP & next day wiped off excess..and bluing with it!
I de-greased & tried the Oxo-Blue again..and again everything blended in..but this time, I used Hoppe's oil..this time bluing stayed put..and is still there after much handling and use..I never would have thought a type of oil would make a diffference.
 
^^^ being that CLP is a "Cleaner-Lubricant-Protectant" that doesn't surprise me at all.

Old Fart, never done it myself but sounds like you should be good with mobil 1. Let us know how it turns out. Pictures as well possibly?
 
Yes, thats what I figured..that "cleaner" part probably did it.
Just remembered..here's the weird thing..in the area of touch-up there was a fairly light gray area..and to rear a vivid almost iridescent fire-blue colored spot..about 1/3 worn bright. Now when the cold blue was applied..the grey area remained gray..but that vivid blue spot took bluing..and that bright spot was now iridescent blue! So I wonder what is really going on with case-colors? is it the metal itself..and perhaps the mixture of alloy or carbon at surface that determins color?
 
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