Model 10 (Pictures)

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TimM

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If anyone has images of their Smith Model 10 can you please post them, especially if they are custom. I am getting ready to purchase two model 10 Heavy Barrel revolvers and have some identical custom work done to them. Just looking for inspiration......

t-
 



Model 10-6...original semi-worn Finish (still)


Had been a 4 inch (Heavy Barrel), Square Butt...


I changed the Grip-Frame shape...fitted and re-shaped some old, plain Walnut Stocks, Bobbed the Hammer...smoothed-out the Factory serrations of the Trigger so Trigger front is rounded and smooth in section...made and installed a simple 'Half Moon' Front Sight...serrated the Back Strap...cut a 'rounded' Muzzle-end about as it originally had.


Sight needs to be a little lower...to hit POA with Standard Cartridges.
 
Hello.

RevolverBookModel10-6CarryGun001.jpg
This Model 10-6 already had a Z-coat finish when I bought it used. Its only other "custom" touches are minor: bobbed hammer and smooth trigger. This one is a personal "carry gun".

Best and good luck.
 
Nothin' special, but it shoots well. Early sixties and in excellent condition mechanically.

If it looks a little odd, it used to be a pencil barrel and the forcing cone split. I replaced the barrel with the heavy barrel and it balances better IMHO.

There's more pix at..... http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=386394

attachment.php
 
Finding a set of grips you like is the most important thing.

The 10 is an odd one to hyper-customize, I think. It's such an all-business handgun.
Most mods I've seen so far are for function and shootability.

Below: 10-8 with Herret grips. I later bobbed the hammer and smoothed the action.

DSC01099-small.jpg


-Daizee
 
Stupid quesion. Why would you bob the trigger on a service model? I can understand doing it to snub, but in a service model I think I would value more the ability to cock the first shot.
 
Why would you bob the trigger on a service model?

to ensure that it's only ever fired DAO.

I'm sure other people have their own reasons. Here's mine:

I have a blackhawk and a model 14. Both get shot single-action 90% of the time (the b'hawk 100%!). I wanted a house gun that was IDPA legal. I took the new-to-me model-10 to a local match and discovered I was shooting SA way too much, automatically. Basically I was "fighting" the way I practiced. The SA shots are slow, and introduce *what I feel to myself* to be an unnecessary safety hazard, which is a light trigger on a compressed spring on a gun that I planned to use when I was woken in the middle of the night, full of adrenaline. (and it requires pulling the trigger to de-cock, which tho totally natural when relaxed, might be an issue when fine motor control is a shaky mess.)

There is no place on my property that you could place a 8.5x11" target that I couldn't hit shooting DA from where the house sits (I practiced to improve), so I decided that SA causes little but risk for me in this scenario, and bobbing the hammer would forced a change of habit.

It worked, and my DA abilities improved. Note, however, that I ordered an extra hammer to bob from S&W and kept the factory unit aside for re-conversion if desired.

-Daizee
 
Hello. I prefer the spurless hammer if the gun is to be carried concealed although I must admit that I have never seen a revolver with a hammer spur hang up coming out of an OWB holster from under a shirt or jacket. I have not seen it from an IWB holster, either. I definitely have seen hangups with a snub coming from a pocket holster and I will not carry via a pocket holster unless the J-frame snub is spurless, ie, bobbed hammer, or BodyGuard or Centennial. I am aware of the thumb-on-the-hammer method of preventing hanging up but I just prefer to get a proper grip and come out with it, which "spurless" allows. Others may feel differently and I respect their choice but such just is not my preference so I don't do it on pocket-carry snubs...but I'm wandering again...

In my early years as a police officer I was fortunate to be taught DA-revolver shooting by some PPC shooters capable of competing at the national level and who had several times. Over the years under their guidance and training, I practically never used single-action, though I left the spur on my service revolver so that it could be secured in my uniform duty rig via strap or the then-new thumbreaks. When I was in plainclothes, I learned the hard way that spurs and square butts on revolvers eventually wore holes in the lining of my sport jackets. I went to a round butt revolver with a bobbed hammer spur and holsters that secured the revolver via really nice fitting. You could easily pass the old IPSC "test" to see if they held the gun securely, ie: somersault with holstered gun and it remaining secure. I noticed that with the bobbed hammers, if I went for the revolver quickly and managed a grip that was a little too high, I could still fire the gun; my hand didn't retard the hammer's rearward motion as it did with the spur intact.

Quite a few of my larger revolvers as well as K-frames have their original spur hammers and I feel no real need to bob their hammers; they do what I expect as they are.

Even my bobbed-hammer K-frames have their original hammers packaged and labeled which goes with which gun so that they can be replaced quickly should that need ever present itself, though I doubt that it will. All of the bobbed hammers were fitted to specific revolvers.

I guess I just like 'em that way because I'm just so used to them. Others will disagree and valid points can be made for their preferences in not trimming the hammer spur.

I'm used to it and it just works for me. I think it offers a bit of a anti-snag safeguard but maybe that's more theoretical than likely. Who can say? I just prefer it.

Best to you and yours.
 
Thanks Diazee for addressing what I've noticed a lot of people doing, both people at the range I go to and a lot of videos online. Whether or not these people would use their revolvers as SD weapons I don't know. But I do see a lot of people shooting DA/SA revolvers using them as SA only.

In college (police science) we were told about some officers a long time ago that were killed in a shoot out. In the officer's shirt pockets they found empty casings from their service revolers. It turns out that during training, during reloading they would dump the empties in their pockets to save the brass. During the shootout, they reverted to there training and were saving their brass when they should've been reloading a lot faster.
 
Hi Gunnutery,

It's that training reversion exactly. I'm not a serious tactical guy, but I'd read about reverting to training during gunfights, practice-like-you-train, etc. Then I experienced it for myself (kind of went out of my way to find out), and believed it.

A $40 reversible mod on a $200 gun is very cheap insurance.
Basically I'd probably bob any revolver I gave any sort of real "action" role to - carry or house gun. Otherwise I prefer 'em whole. I sure wasn't gonna bob my model-14 laser pistol! no way!

Cheers,

-Daizee
 
With a 'Bobbed' Hammer...on an otherwise Double-Action capable Revolver...if wishing to Shoot in a Single Action mode, one simply proceed with only some of the 'Double Action' pull-sequence, and, once the Hammer is back far enough, one cocks it with one's Thumb...and, thus, has it in the 'Single Action' mode.
 
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There is some good discussion here but I know that there are more model 10 owners with photos.

Let's get back to the images..... modified model 64s will work as well.

I appreciate all who have posted so far.
 
Hello. Couple more:

SWM10fourRemRock2.jpg
Model 10-10 as it came from the factory; this one's a favorite shooter.

NewSW2M10NRACap1.jpg
I bought this M10 snub "pre-owned". Its hammer had been very neatly removed by the previous owner.

Best.
 
Well great! Now I know why some people prefer to bob a service revolver. Thank you for the detailed explanations.
 
Please stop with the DA vs SA and spur vs bobbed debate! You can start a new thread about that if it is a topic that you want to discuss. I just want to see pictures of model 10s - preferably customized.
 
Well...'Modification-wise'


Shorten Barrel...


Get a longer Barrel


Change front Sight...or, add a rear Sight also.


Change Cartridge type...going from .38 Special, to 9mm, or related.


Have relief made to Cylinder for using .38 Special Cartridges with full Moon Clips.


Change Grip-Frame shape...


Change Stocks...


Bob Hammer...


Or, get a Hammer with a different kind of Spur, short Spur...off-set Spur, Wide Spurr, or any combination of these.


'Open' front Trigger Bow...or, relieved in width toward the front, Bow...or change Bow size or shape...


Add a Spur to the Trigger Bow, ah-la S&W 'Russian'


Rounded smooth Trigger...Factory Serrated Trigger...Checkered or other texture Trigger...wide Trigger...


Checker or Serrate Back Strap...Front Strap...or both...


Change finish...phosphate-green, re-blue, Parkerize...Nickel...other...
 
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