Model 642 range report

[Jim K]

I have been shooting J-frame S&W revolvers for years, but shied away from the airweights. I finally decided to try the 642 (.38 Special). I went to the range last week with a couple of boxes of wadcutter reloads (2.5 gr Bullseye, 148 gr WC bullet). The upper part of the factory "rubber" grip tore a big chunk off the inside of my thumb. Further, like a lot of DA shooters, I use the index finger tip against the frame for trigger control. That was not possible with the factory grip and I could never get the gun to shoot as well as I thought it should. Nor was I ever able to get a good grip with only the two fingers the factory grips allow.

Today, I put on a set of old wood grips I had around, and off to the range I went. Success! Not only can I get a full grip on the gun, but the old style grips don't have that upper part that scraped me so badly. And I now have a contact point for my finger tip. In brief, the gun shoots as it should. I plan to use WC loads for a few more sessions, then switch to something hotter.

I have fired a few shots with a Model 340 (.357, Scandium) and cannot imagine anyone firing the gun enough with .357 loads to become halfway competent with it. I would be interested to hear from those who have tried that combination.

Jim

 

[XLMiguel]

Hey, Jim, there's a reason why there a a lot of Scandium .357 snubbies starting to show up in the consignment case around here, usually with a box of ammo with 47 rounds left

 

[Jrob24]

Jim please tell me what brand of wood grips you replaced the boot grips with? and how much larger are they?

 

[BigG]

Hi Jim:

The diminutive grip size (1 1/2 fingers on butt) is why DA is the only game in town with those 642-sized snubbies. I can tell from experience that the guys who tout the SA variants have never extensively shot them. At least I don't believe so. Thanks for the report!

 

[Jim K]

Hi, Jrob24,

I replaced the boot grips with the old standard (magnum style) S&W grips. No extra wood, no frame filler, just the standard grips that they put on J frames 10 years ago. My Model 36 (3" square butt) also wears standard S&W wood grips. IMHO, it is a matter of getting a grip on the gun; the new factory grips just don't seem (to me) to allow enough control. You do have to grip those light guns very tightly. They are controllable to some extent only if the gun and hand recoil together. A light grip lets the gun get a head start and slam into the hand, and that really hurts.

Mike, I like the comment about 47 rounds left in the box.

Jim

 

[Professor Frink]

Shooting the Scandium #%&

Awhile back, my local shop (Lock Stock and Barrel in Temple City) put on a Fun Shoot out here in L.A. County. It was great fun and plenty of distributors were there to let you try their wares.

Well I picked up one of those scandium .357s and put five, full-house loads through it. By the third shot, the Smith rep said “you’re flinching real bad” I hollered back that “I just want it to be over” I fired off the last two, and politely thanked the rep for letting me shoot his pistol. I found the experience very painful.

I’m sure there are people out there who can shoot those light .357 revolvers well, but I am not one of them.

 

[fiVe]

Jim: Thanks for your review.

I have been pleased with my results using the stock boot grips.

R/fiVe

 

[Master Blaster]

The upper part of the factory "rubber" grip tore a big chunk off the inside of my thumb. Further, like a lot of DA shooters

Wow I'm surprised that the rubber grip did a number on your hand like that, I have about 1200 rounds throught mine and its my daily carry gun, I carry +p speer 135 gd, I used to carry federal 110 +p. I have shot about 1/2 +p and the other half 158 LSWC loaded with 4.0 grains of unique, lately I have been firing the 135 gold dot loaded with 5.0 gr Unique. I have had two different wood grips on it, but for cosmetic reasons rather than comfort, neither worked as well as the rubber boot grips.

The old J-frame wood grips that came with my 1974 model 36 if those are the old fashioned checkered wood grips you are talking about would be my last choice, due to the fact that they leave the area under the trigger guard open this results in the knuckle of my second finger getting wacked painfully by the trigger guard, when firing the gun. The rubber boot grips however fill this area, as do many other modern grips.

I guess it just goes to show that every body's hand is different, that why we all seem to have a box of unused grips in the armory.

 

[Tse Gee La]

After firing a friend's 340PD with .357 I had to have one. I carry it with .357 rounds but usually only shoot .38 at the range.

 

[Jim K]

As a rule, it is not a good idea to carry heavy loads and practice with light loads. If the gun has to be used, then the blast and noise of the heavy loads (remember, no muffs or earplugs in the real world), can seriously shake up the shooter. It is OK to practice with light loads, but every range session should include at least a few cylinders of the carry load.

(Yes, I know all the stories about how no one notices the flash and blast and recoil in a "combat" situation. I know some folks who have been there who will tell you different.)

Jim

 

[sgt127]

You might want to try out a Tyler T Grip sometime. Fills in a little of the frontstrap without screwing up the rest of the ergonomics of the factory grips. But, if it works for you the way it is, leave it alone.