Model 94 30-30 front sight help!!!!!!!

[Jeffery8mm]

I recently bought a used 94 Win in 30-30. It is in decent shape but has been a truck gun for alot of years and as such is fired little but the exterior is sorta poor looking!! Any way, I was gonna remove the front dove tailed sight and on the first bump with the hammer/punch, the WHOLE sight assy came off!!! Was this soldered on originally from the factory?? What are my options to put it back on?? JB Weld, solder of some sorts, or is this a gunsmith job??
Thanks
Jeff

 

[W.E.G.]

Are you saying the sight popped out of the dovetail?

 

[back40]

sounds like the base that holds the dovetailed blade came off the barrel. i'd say it's a gunsmith job.

 

[Jeffery8mm]

It is the whole base.. I was attempting to get the dovetailed part out. I can see where it appears there were two "spots" of some sort of weld holding this to the barrel from the factory.
I was hoping i could solder it back on using the two "spots" as a reference point. I assume it would need to be degreased and cleaned first though.
Jeff

 

[W.E.G.]

This "weld" you speak of is probably some sort of solder.

Different types of solder do not play well with each other.

To solder it back in place you will need to completely remove all the old solder.

Then you will need to "tin" the base with a proper solder - note that tin-based solders do not play well with refinishing techniques that involve heat. So, "tinning" is really the expression used for pre-applying solder to a workpiece.

Silver solder would be the preferred solder type.

Clean all traces of previous solder from the piece. Apply flux compatible with your solder to the piece. Heat the piece until the flux liquefies. Then apply enough solder to complete the joint. Judging the correct amount of solder is really an art.

Apply flux to the barrel where the piece will attach. The flux may damage any existing finish (note my previous remark about refinishing). Heat the flux on the barrel in the same manner as previously described.

Place your tinned piece on the barrel. You will have to invent some sort of clamp that will still allow you to heat the part and the barrel evenly. Apply heat until the solder flows as a bead around the part. The smaller the bead the better. Too big a bead, and you know you used too much solder. Too little bead, and the part will be liable to just fall off in the same way that just happened to you.

Sound like a piece of cake?

...or you could just use JB Weld, and hope for the best - which is probably what I would do on a beater unless I wanted a big soldering project.

 

[Kernel]

Options...

Drill and tap for a base that attaches with thread fasteners. Or, dovetail the barrel and put in a taller conventional sight blade.

Brownells sells at least 50 different dovetailed front sights, in all heights, with all manner and sizes of dots, beads, colored bars, light tubes, etc. Most are less than $10. IIRC they even sell a kitchen table DIY dovetail kit.

Brownells also has the bases that attach with screws. The OEM one for the Marlin 336 would work perfect and cost less than $10. Real Winchester parts are harder to find and more expensive since the Win '94 is no longer a normal production item.

I have two Win '94's. Both factory orignial. One has a front sight that's dovetailed to the barrel, the other has a base that is attached with screws. Never seen one with a silver soldered front base, but I'm by no means an expert on'em.

 

[henschman]

Yep, I'd drill and tap the barrel to accept a front sight ramp with a dovetail, screw it on, and then pick the front sight of your choice (one that is the proper height of course).