Of course, with oil additive/engine treatments, they recommend that you do not add the stuff before engine break-in, say, 24,000-miles.
On the 1911 vs Glock torture tests. I'd suspect selecting a powder with minimal residue will go farther for 1000 round performance than any lube will. My neigbors Kahr PM40 started choking after about 100 rounds of UMC ball. Sure, it has terribly dirty powder, but the point is that the buildup of powder residue is what choked it up, not lubrication.
Mind you, I'm not ignoring lubrication, just saying it's minor in these torture test compared to residue buildup in my thinking.
Moly isn't an additive, but it does make for a good pre-lube when you put engines together. I've used it several times on main, rod and cam bearings on freshly rebuilt motors. It's actually what comes in most engine rebuild kits for assembly lube. It's great protection before the oil gets pumping on a rebuilt motor. Prevents scoring. You run the motor for 20 minutes at 1500rpm, then dump moly contaminated oil and change it.
On guns, I'm not sure I'd want moly being able to get on my clothing since it's black and nasty. Maybe on the rails, then assembled, thoroughly wiped, cycled liberally by hand, wiped again. I hate that stuff, great lube, but just downright nasty to clean up. Besides, I'd use the red Mobil 1 synthetic grease instead, but that's just me. As a gear head, I just love synthetic lubricants, they last longer and hold up better to extremes. Particularly water when dunking my hubs in muck and puddles.
