Grease better than oil?

[JohnKSa]

jsimmons,

I'm as curious as 481. If the combination of high heat and lubricants provides any sort of lasting protection, then why wouldn't one be able to drain the oil out of an engine after getting it hot once and expect it to keep going?

 

[481]

jsimmons,

I'm as curious as 481. If the combination of high heat and lubricants provides any sort of lasting protection, then why wouldn't one be able to drain the oil out of an engine after getting it hot once and expect it to keep going?

Well put. Inquirin' minds wanna know!

At 180F, this process is not going to alter the steel alloy's hardness or durability and once the weapon's surfaces are wiped clean of the wheel bearing grease, it cannot continue to serve as a lubricant or as a barrier against corrosion.

 

[1SOW]

I can't stop myself:

Everytime I'm going to shoot, I wipe down my pistols and apply some oil to all friction points and some Militek 1 (dry lube) on and in the barrel occassionally. (syn oil and Militek are latest choices)

To quote a friend: "It'll sling off what it doesn't need".

I don't care how long it takes the lube to evaporate. I just care if the pistol 'runs' smoothly when I shoot it, doesn't attract enough dirt to foul the action and doesn't show excessive friction wear when I come home. I don't 'clean' my pistols often.

Belgium Browning from around 1958-59 , High Standard from the 70s and a number of others along the way. All shoot reliably.

So far, so good.

 

[gofastman]

jsimmons,

I'm as curious as 481. If the combination of high heat and lubricants provides any sort of lasting protection, then why wouldn't one be able to drain the oil out of an engine after getting it hot once and expect it to keep going?

you can.
oil is loaded with EP additives, an engine can idle upwards of 45 min with no oil in it.
An engine, however, relies primarily on hydrodynamic lubrication, rather than boundary lubrication to protect its bearings.

guns, as far as i know, don't have a pressurized lubrication system, so they rely heavily on EP/AW additives to protect moving parts.

 

[481]

you can.
oil is loaded with EP additives, an engine can idle upwards of 45 min with no oil in it.
An engine, however, relies primarily on hydrodynamic lubrication, rather than boundary lubrication to protect its bearings.

guns, as far as i know, don't have a pressurized lubrication system, so they rely heavily on EP/AW additives to protect moving parts.

The surfaces in an engine are not wiped clean of the remaining oil after drainage so you can idle the engine for a short time before damage occurs. Sure, it is a neat trick, but if you try to drive the car in such a condition you'll not get very far since under load the remaining oil film will fail.

Unless the poster (who baked his pistol slathered with bearing grease) left a very thin coat of grease in place all over his pistol (which would make the gun a real thrill to shoot), it is unlikely that he is experiencing a similar effect from that treatment.

 

[HoosierQ]

My dad had a little tiny tube of Gunslick which is great. Apply some CLP to the slide rail and then some very tiny dabs of Gunslick which sort of disolves in the CLP a little bit. I have these little plastic tootpicks for cleaning out your gums and I spread it around as evenly as I can up and down the slide rail. Then I wipe it off without letting my rag get too far down in the groove.

That which I wipe off the slide I dab on the frame rails very lightly, the contact surface of the sear and a couple other places where metal slides across metal.

On the outside of the barrel I slather on some CLP then I put on some Gunslick and smear it all around, smoothing it out with my finger. With the stuff on my finger I wipe it round in the barrel bushing which will aready be a little wet with CLP.

So I actually end up using a dab of Gunslick about the size of grain of rice (or two) on each gun.

CLP everyplace else (or other oil sometimes just 3-in-1).