More problems with model 10

[Super]

Okay. I'm about to junk this thing so any help would be appreciatd.

Timing is fine. Everything is tight. I cleaned out the guts and everything there is fine. While the cyl/bore gap is very tight, it doesn't rub while rey firing and the barrel is square.

1:What kind of oil/grease to use on the internals.

The thing will not fire reliably. The hammer seems to be falling hard enough, I put more tension on the spring. It's denting the primers. The firing pin seems to be going plenty far in. The firing pin looks okay. This happens with multiple different brands of ammo save for the first box of s&b's and reloads with primers that work fine in other guns. If one continues to fire the same round it EVENTUALLY kicks off.

2:***?

When firing the thing binds up. It's fine dry firing but shooting it isn't . Happens with everything.

3:***?

On the last shot it logged a bullet. A 158 gr tmj with 4 gr of unique. This is the second .38 I jammed up.

4:***?

 

[4thHorseman]

Check for grud under the extractor pin.
The frame could be slightly out of square, when fired it warps just a bit causing binding.
It could be the clearence between the forcing cone and the cylinder is to tight. I believe it should be around .006 to around .008 of an inch between the forcing cone and the cylinder.

Another thing, the distance between the cylinder and the the firing pin may be excessive. By that I mean the firing ping is at almost the end of it's travel before it strikes the primer. Maybe the firing pin is too short.
I suspecting it is a hammer mounted firing pin, not frame mounted.
If the cylinder is to far forward it would cause bothese conditions you are speaking about. Measure the didtance between the cylinder and the forcing cone.
Keep us posted.

 

[braindead0]

Another possibly reason to bind up when firing ammo, check the ejecter spring tension and the locking pin (you know, the thing that keeps the cylinder closed). The recoil can cause the pin to move enough to possibly allow cylinder to become unlatched...

Just a thought, if the ejecter and pin are really dirty it might not even be engaging properly and one shot and it could stick open.

 

[bountyhunter]

Barrel to cylinder gap should run not less than .004" and not more than .010" (cold). I agree this problem is a light strike misfire. Is the strain screw tightened in fully? If so, two possibilities:

1) Somebody installed a reduced power mainspring which has weakened over time. CURE: new mainspring.

2) Somebody shaved the end of the strain screw to get lighter trigger pull so there is insufficient tension to give enough striking power. CURE: New strain screw.

Be sure to clean fully under the ejector star and inside the cylinder (use some spray carburetor cleaner). make sure the ejector rod is tightened all the way in (it has reverse threads, install empty brass in the cylinder before tightening).

As to lubing the works: use a good grease like Militec or Tetra Gun grease on all the internal surfaces and parts.

 

[Tropical Z]

And yet advice is ALWAYS given to get a used "model 10" over the Rossi-Taurus-Windicator-etc-etc-etc.Just goes to show you that even the much vaunted 10 isnt infallible!

 

[Mark IV Series 80]

2) Somebody shaved the end of the strain screw to get lighter trigger pull so there is insufficient tension to give enough striking power. CURE: New strain screw.

Another thing you can do if the strain screw isn't putting enough tension on the mainspring:

Put a spent primer between the end of the screw and the mainspring, then tighten the strain screw all the way.
Sometimes, this will put enough extra tension on the mainspring to reliably ignite the primers.

Also, until you get it sorted out, stick with new American-made ammo (no reloads).

 

[Super]

Problem fixed.

Every thing was squeaky clean. Really clean. I build engines. That clean.

Cyl-bore gap was within spec.

Everything checked out.

Still didn't fire right.

So how did I fix it?

I traded it in for an automatic.

I allways though revolvers were supposed to be reliable. How come then my (ex) model 10 had a record of 5 rds before a FTF and my 1911 (a new 1911!) has infinity rouds with no fail to do anything. (Devide 1,000 over 0) Over 1,000 with no problems. Now I remember why revolvers stink.

 

[Mark IV Series 80]

I allways though revolvers were supposed to be reliable. How come then my (ex) model 10 had a record of 5 rds before a FTF and my 1911 (a new 1911!) has infinity rouds with no fail to do anything. (Devide 1,000 over 0) Over 1,000 with no problems. Now I remember why revolvers stink.

Hello Super,

You can't judge all revolvers by a sample of one, especially an old one that you may not know the history on.

I bought one of those police trade-in revolvers a while back, and I've never had a problem with it.
In fact, it's been years since I've had a revolver fail to fire.

My revolvers have failed in the past due to these reasons:

1) Junk under the extractor star.
2) A loose ejector rod.
3) A backed-out mainspring strain-screw.
4) Too much fouling in the chambers, preventing the rounds from fully chambering.

My Colt Government Model and Combat Commander, acquired new, could not get through a box of Hardball without jamming.
My gunsmith has corrected this.

I'm glad that your new 1911 is working without problems.
Please keep an open mind about revolvers.

 

[BigG]

1) Junk under the extractor star.
2) A loose ejector rod.
3) A backed-out mainspring strain-screw.
4) Too much fouling in the chambers, preventing the rounds from fully
chambering.

A pretty good laundry list for troubleshooting.

 

[bountyhunter]

On the subject of reliability, the reason that Model 10 had problems was because it was either neglected or modified by the user. I have five revolvers (four SW) and have probably fired more than 50k rounds out of them with zero problems except when I bought a bad batch of ammo that was poofing squibs into the barrel. Not the gun's fault.

I also own seven autos with a combined round total of about 50k rounds, and only one of them has failed to jam (Beretta 92). All the others including three 1911's, a CZ-85, Browning HP, have jammed more times than I can count for a list of reasons that could fill a small phone book. Your beloved 1911 requires the extractor tension be adjusted regulary or you will get jams.

I have a gun by my bed to protect my life and guess what, it's a Model 10 built in 1968.

 

[Archie]

Another possibility is

excess play (fore and aft) in the cylinder.

There should be no more than about .002" endplay in the cylinder. In excess will cause the problems you described with everything squeeky cleanand lubricated.

S&W revolvers are bricks. Making one consistently not shoot takes serious work. Good luck with the 1911.They are pretty much solid shooters, too.

 

[Nick96]

Hummm!!!. That seems odd. A revolver design that's been around for more than a hunderd years. Millions produced. Used by thousands of Police and Military organizations worldwide for the better part of 75 years. Could old, worn out, abused or neglected be a contributor to any of the problem catagories?

Not to sound like a smart a**. But saying a S&W M-10 is an inherantly poorly designed and made firearm is like saying a Craftsman hammer is an inadequate instrument for pounding nails. There's got to be more to the story.

My personal experience - EVERY auto loader I've owned or shot has failed to function at some time. NO revolver I've ever owned or shot has ever failed to work as intended.

 

[Tamara]

Super,

Now I remember why revolvers stink.

Yup, they're all garbage. I'd highly recommend not buying or looking at any more.

 

[Kahr carrier]

TAMARA YOUR KILLING ME.

 

[Tamara]

Sshhh!

More for me, that way...

 

[Kahr carrier]

Smooth I like your style.