Mosin Nagant Choices

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dak0ta

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Help Choose a Starter! I'll buy them all eventually!

M44 Laminated
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M91/30
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M38
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Glad you asked that. I've been thinking about one of these simply because the ammo is still cheap, but I have no idea which one to get.

Keeping an eye out for responses......
 
I have an M38. I'm not much good with it yet, but I like it.

If I had it to do over, I might go M91/30 for the first. Being a full-sized rifle, sight radius is longer (though the carbines' sight radius is certainly sufficient) and recoil is tamer. Whichever model you get, try to find a nice bright bore.
 
I'd say the M38. It seems slightly more difficult to find - I see the other two all over the place in all kinds of conditions.
 
The 44's and 91/30's are cheaper and a lot easier to find. With some careful looking, you can find one with a nice bore and action. I personally prefer the solid stocks, but the laminated ones are genereally considered to be stronger, and are usually in better condition with fewer repairs.

I have one of each and love them both, but like the accuracy of the 91/30 better. Plus it's almost as tall as I am with the bayonette on it :D.

Whatever you decide, take a bore-light to check it and grab a thick jacket to protect your shoulder.
 
Balance on the 91/30 is great but only without the bayo. On some rifles the bayo is necessary because they were sighted in with it on.
 
Love my 91/30, but I think you could pick any model. Just find one with the best looking bore with the stock/patina to your liking.

Plan to get an M44 to keep my 91/30 company sometime. They're like potato chips, can't have just one!
 
They are all must haves! But the M44 is the neatest! The 91/30 is easier on the shoulder and the M38's are more rare.
 
M38 as those aren't as readily available. M44 with Laminate is what I went with since I am not a 'collector' - plus you can find excellent condition M44's out there. Those things are a blast to shoot.
 
I've been thinking of one or an SKS.

which model of Mosins would require the least assistance of a nail hammer or crowbar to work the bolt? :uhoh:
 
The bolt sticking problems is usually due to warm cosmoline or the waxy paste on surplus ammo causing the bolt to be difficult to operate. Just clean it thoroughly and perhaps wipe your bullets down before putting them in the gun.
 
Glad you asked that. I've been thinking about one of these simply because the ammo is still cheap, but I have no idea which one to get.
That's easy! First get a Finn (any model you can find) then a M44, then a M38, then the M91/30 and so on:D
 
91/30 but hold out for one with a bore with minimal or no pitting- you might need to pick through a few hundred of them to find a good one.
 
which model of Mosins would require the least assistance of a nail hammer or crowbar to work the bolt?

Sticky bolts are typically the result of year of shooting Soviet ammo with lacquer on the cases. Lacquer coating on their ammo (especially the steel cased stuff) was normal as it was designed for harsh climates and long-term preservation.

Over time, the lacquer melted as the rifle got hot from shooting and it transferred to the walls of the chamber.

70 years later as you shoot, the chamber heats up again and the lacquer keeps the brass from being easily extracted. Lots of cleaning with eveything from lacquer thinner and a 12 gauge brass brush in a drill to brake parts cleaner will help to remove this buildup of lacquer.

Also, surplus ammo is still plentiful but I have seen the costs rising. This old ammo is corrosive in that the primer has salts that need to be immediately removed after shooting. Hot water or even Windex with Ammonia helps to neutralize the salts. Soak the chamber and boltface with either and dry off. Then clean as usual when you get home.

I have a 91/30 that is dated 1931 (hex receiver Izhevsk Arsenal) and it still shoots a 6" group at 200 meters. That was the Soviet Army standard for their soldiers and is easily "minute-of-Nazi"!! I have to use a rest to get that but i'ts still fun to shoot as long as I have a good shoulder pad.
 
To hammer the point home, if you spend another C note on it you can get a Finn with no sticky bolt, a mint bore and excellent accuracy. Plus you'll have a rifle that will get more valuable with time provided you don't hack it up.
 
First one...

I recommend the 91-30 for the first purchase, then the m44, but you'd be good with either really - just depends on your preference. The m38's almost all have counterbored muzzles and aren't very accurate in my experience.

There's good Bulgarian ammo available for pretty reasonable but I wouldn't wait too long to snag a couple cases of it. I'd buy the one rifle and all the ammo you want THEN go for another rifle.
 
I thought that counterboring made the rifles more accurate since they fixed whatever was damaged or made the rifle inaccurate. Please explain the process of counterboring.
 
It's not the counterboring per se, it's the fact that a counterbored M38 usually means it was rebored as well and may have an oversized bore. It also usually means it was rode hard and put away wet sometime between the fall of the Ukraine and the conquest of Berlin.

There are counterbored Mosins that shoot great, such as the Pole M44's or some of the Finnish rifles. But generally speaking most of the M38's have been counterbored and are iffy in the accuracy department.
 
I'd buy the one rifle and all the ammo you want THEN go for another rifle.

I waited too long for .308 and I'm paying the price somewhat.

I ordered some 54R ammo a while back out of paranoia. Don't even own a gun that can use it... that's sad :)
 
I just picked up my 2nd 91/30. a 1938 Izhevsk. I gave my M44 to my son. Now my 1943 Tula 91/30 has a brother.I've got $150 in the two rifles plus a little elbow grease to clean them up.Can't beat it.$75 delivered from J&G Sales.Great shape. IMG_0539.gif
 
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