my 1860 army issues

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Almost, the hand just will carry it all the way. But it takes all it can get of the travel.

45 Dragoon
 
Almost, the hand just will carry it all the way. But it takes all it can get of the travel.

That should be perfect (or almost so) As the back of the hammer touches the backstrap the tip of the trigger should move into the full-cock notch (and the hammer should not have to be lowered so the trigger can find the full-cock notch). Then as all this happens the hand has rotated the cylinder so the bolt can lift into the cylinder notch - and the hand is fitted so it rotates the cylinder no further.

All you need is a trigger with a longer tip at the top and a little additional work on the tip of the hand..
 
Thanks Robert ! Me too !! If you ever quit learning, then there is no reason for anything! To me, learning is a life long enjoyment. ( wish i'd thought that way when I was a kid !!)

Yeah Fuff, I was thinking about that too but I'd rather have a later full cock notch than the longer trigger. Half cock is perf and a longer trig end would throw that off so, I just for now put up with the way it is. It does sound good though, even though it's wrong. Don't tell anybody and I'll get her fixed one day!!!

By the way, the two Dragoons are perfect though (even if I do say so myself !!!)

45 Dragoon
 
well, when its on full cock, with the old hand theres enough wiggle where the edge of the cutout for the nipple lines up with the edge of the groove the hammer falls into.. if this makes any sense.. the cutout on the cylinder is larger than this grove though and at full cock it does center itself over the grove.. but i can turn it back counter-clockwise until the edges line up, maybe 1/32-1/16" travel
 
Look back through the posts. The hand rotates, the bolt locks. If the bolt moves, the cyl. moves (assuming perf. fit). Fix the bolt mov'mt, you fix cyl. mov'mt.
You seem to be focusing on the wrong thing. The hand isn't the issue, everything you are saying points to the bolt. You can't fix an oil leak by changing hub caps!!! lol

45 Dragoon
 
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interesting.. when i take the bolt out of the frame and press it into the groove of the cylinder.. i dont think its fitting in all the way.. it presses up against one side and not the other.. it seems to be a tad large... perhaps i should file that down.. im going to go get my calipers and measure

just measured.. the bolt is actually larger than the notch in the cylinder
 
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Start by stoning the frame side of the bolt to true the whole side ( or if you don't have a stone 320 grit or so sand paper or cloth will do) so it will be smooth acting. Make sure the stone or backing for the paper/cloth is absolutely flat. You just want to remove any irregularities. The frame side is the only side you will true. The other side, (hammer side) is prob fitted well enough if it is cycling. That being the case, using a fine file or stone ( I like stones when not much material is being removed), carefully take material from the sides of the head/ball of the bolt only. Leave the sides and arms of the bolt alone, you are just working on the part that will go into the locking notch of the cyl. Make sure you keep the sides parallel to each other and do NOT cone or taper it to fit. The factory will do this method but it is moving something off of the assy. line. It is incorrect. Take your time here and do it right. Your cyl. notches will thank you for it !!!! I put my bolts in one end of a drill press vise so I can keep the head/ball above the jaws and a stop towards the other end. That gives me the ability to work both sides with a file/stone and stay parallel. Check the fit often. Stop when your there. Material is easier to take off than put on !
You can trial fit with bolt in hand but when you think you're about there, put the bolt in the frame and try it carefully in each notch till it will lock them all. Yes, put the spring in too. I know it's a pain but do right now and you wont eat parts later.

This should get you in the ball park.

45 Dragoon
 
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