Well as I said as a last resort, even if you end up taking these apart I can put them back together.
I have done that before with several guns i didn't take aprt myself, that were taken apart by their owners mostly and on semi auto Winchester taken apart for blueing, but that smith blew town leaving the parts in 2 boxes with parts of other guns in the same boxes.
I just don't know the details of any, but the Patterson is likely the most difficult of all. That folding trigger probably makes it so, but it can't be all that hard to figure out.
The 3rd modle is where to start if you do. At least I think so. It is likely to be closer in design to the 1858 and the 1860.
With that digested the Walker would be my next choice, leaving that Patterson for last.
Me: I wouldn't care if all of them were taken apart and all the pieces were dumped in one box. I could still put them all back together again.
If any parts are needed I could make them all work. It is either a matter of study, which it would be for me, or knowing what you are doing, which i don't but I could.
Either way you can have these working again.
That 3rd Modle and anyone is fee to tell me where I go wrong, should have 2 screws just below the hammer, and one more in the bottom of the grip frame to release the wooden grips.
Safe to pull that.
The next screw is the lower end of the main spring, loosen it a lot, but then slip the main spring out of the hammer and look where it notches into the hammer before you pull it out all the way. Then pull it out.
With a egg carton place the pairs of screws in one holder and the singles each in their own holder.
Next move on to the trigger guard frame. 2 screws at the rear and one up front. The 2 rear screws are longer, so they go in another holder and the sole shorter screw goes in it's own. Pull off the trigger guard.
You will see the sear spring, and one screw that holds it. For kicks and grins see if it has become loose, which it may and there by thrown timing off. If it is tight, operate the hammer by hand with in it limits, and watch the bolt move up and down, and how the two legs work on the hammer cam, and work to engage the sear.
Then it is safe to pull this spring retainer screw and the spring, which both go in another holder.
There are 2 screws similar holding the sear, the other holding the trigger, but similar is rough, so remove one screw and the part and keep them together, then the other.
That would be sear first, trigger last to come apart.
The last screw is the hammer screw still on the left frame. Take it out and slip out the hammer over a white pillow case, so if you drop the cylinder hand you don't loose it.
The hammer and hand drop out from the bottom of the frame, and that's it.
The install is the reverse order.
Now I am not really suggesting you do this, but if you wanted to and got into a problem I can't talk you out of I can still put the gun back together.
learning that tech, if it were me I would move on to the Walker, then the Patterson, as the tech is all similar.
Like you I wouldn't know which parts to get, and they can and do varry between makers.
The bolt screw and trigger screws are slightly different and probably once were the very same screws, but hand work may change them. That hand work from the factory.
The rest is study even for a guy who knows what he is doing, that and fitting the parts correctly.
