I figured I'd share an incident I had yesterday. I am very new to reloading and reloading for 44 mag to shoot in my Super Blackhawk. While shooting paper I fired 3 rounds and proceeded to shoot a 4th, however the primer did not go off. I opened the gate to retrieve that bad load and found the cylinder would not turn, it was locked up pretty good. I tryed knocking the cylinder out with a non marring hammer but it seemed pretty futile and I had 3 live rounds in the revolver. After several more heavy whacks with the hammer the cylinder finally came out, what I found was a less then 240G XTP sheared off and sitting in the forcing cone. Im not sure exactly what happened, but the case had a slightly raised primer which I found prevent rotation of the cylinder (lesson learned check all primer seating). Im thinking that my bullet crimp may not have been heavy enough. Anyways, the revolver appears to be damage free and I later fired a cylinder full of factory loaded cartridges. I have never heard of anything like this happening.
My bullet jammed in my revolver
- Thread starter Woody174
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A bullet in the barrel or in the forcing cone usually is a round without powder where the primer sent the bullet into the barrel. Of course you would know this because if the powder failed to ignite due to primer failure you would have all kinds of powder left over. A primer that went off without powder ignition would typically be raised since under normal firing the rearward movement of the case pushes them back against the recoil shield. One of the reason really light loads can mimic overly heavy loads showing bulged looking primers.
Bullet creep hanging up a revolver from lack of enough crimp usually just engages the forcing cone side as it tries to rotate into shooting position. I've never seen one of these failures where the bullet gets into the barrel and don't see how it ever would.
Bullet creep hanging up a revolver from lack of enough crimp usually just engages the forcing cone side as it tries to rotate into shooting position. I've never seen one of these failures where the bullet gets into the barrel and don't see how it ever would.
This can happen with some of the slower powders if you don't have a heavy crimp. Like steve said, you would know if put powder in that case, since there would still be a lot of unburnt powder in there. The primer was high because there wasn't enough pressure to re-seat it into the case after it fired. So either you forgot to put powder in that case, or you need a heavier crimp to ensure proper powder ignition.
ngnrd
Member
Were you wearing ear plugs? Firing off just a primer isn't exactly loud...
Did you pull the primer and it was still intact or did you just not hear it go off?
Reloadron
Contributing Member
The first cartridge I loaded for was 44 Magnum for my S&W Model 29. I had the very same thing happen. Matter of fact a few times in that lot I loaded. I'll bet you 10:1 there was no powder and the primer did in fact fire. Those are the symptoms.
Don't beat the cylinder. A fellow at the range gave me a wooden dowel and we tapped the bullet back into the case from the barrel. All in all there were 3 of 50 I never got a charge in. Never did that again and lived through the embarrassment. I was 100% sure every case was charged. I started with a Lee Progressive and had much to learn back then.
Ron
Salmoneye
Member
The backed out primer tells us all we need to know...
To me, it's pretty obvious that there was no powder in the cartridge, and that the primer is what lodged the bullet in the cone thus locking up the action...
Next time, just tap the bullet back into the cylinder through muzzle...
I can not imagine how much force you had to use to 'shear' that bullet...
To me, it's pretty obvious that there was no powder in the cartridge, and that the primer is what lodged the bullet in the cone thus locking up the action...
Next time, just tap the bullet back into the cylinder through muzzle...
I can not imagine how much force you had to use to 'shear' that bullet...
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Next time, try a more gentle approach.
Invert the gun and dribble a little oil down the bore and let it stand for 30 minutes. The bullet can be driven through the forcing cone and back into the case pretty easily.
Invert the gun and dribble a little oil down the bore and let it stand for 30 minutes. The bullet can be driven through the forcing cone and back into the case pretty easily.
If you're loading on a progressive and you have an empty station left it would be a good idea to put a power cop die in there. Folks will argue their accuracy, which is certainly questionable, but they'll damn sure alert you to an empty case or a double charge. If you're not on a progressive or you don't have an empty station you might consider going to H110 with that 44 while you're new. Well, if you can find H110 that is. I load 29gr behind a 180gr XTP (got 1000 free with my press) and you can SEE it in the case without leaning over to far too look down inside that deep well of a 44mag case. Powders like unique don't meter well and are low volume loads (around 12gr for the same bullet in my case). That can be dangerous especially when you're learning the ropes. I'd scrap that lot you built if you're using Unique or something similar. The greater danger is the bullet that got seated after that one. If a clumpy hard to meter powder charge got hung up in your auto powder measure and left a case empty or under charged, it likely feel into the next one along with the full charge you planned on putting in there.
You can pick up a collet puller outfit to pull those bullets and reuse them and the power for around $35-40. It's worth it for 44. Ask me how I know, I started with 44mag on my progressive
-BunnMan
You can pick up a collet puller outfit to pull those bullets and reuse them and the power for around $35-40. It's worth it for 44. Ask me how I know, I started with 44mag on my progressive
-BunnMan
Elkins45
Member
I'm betting on the round having no powder. You would definitely have noticed a full unburnt powder charge when you opened the cylinder. It would have gotten all over everything and have been clogging up the bolt and hand openings in the frame and would have been all over your hands.
Lj1941
Member
No Powder
I have had the same thing happen to me with my Model 19.
We don't like to admit that we neglected to charge a case.In my case the bullet ended up in the forcing cone also.You would not hear the primer go off with ear protection.I pounded the bullet back into the case very carefully and when I got back home,I pulled the bullet.It is embarrasing to say the least. We all learn from our mistakes. My procedure after that is to check each case with a flashlight to make sure there is a charge of powder AND only one charge in each case.
I have had the same thing happen to me with my Model 19.
We don't like to admit that we neglected to charge a case.In my case the bullet ended up in the forcing cone also.You would not hear the primer go off with ear protection.I pounded the bullet back into the case very carefully and when I got back home,I pulled the bullet.It is embarrasing to say the least. We all learn from our mistakes. My procedure after that is to check each case with a flashlight to make sure there is a charge of powder AND only one charge in each case.
stubbicatt
Member
Squib load?
I wish I would have thought about using a dowel while the cylinder was still in the gun, I didn't even ponder that a bullet might have been stuck in there. I did infact pop out the primer on the case and it was infact fired, the inside of the case is gray all over not relatively clean like the other spent cases. That primer must not of made much noise at all because I distinctively remember the sound of the hammer itself falling, their was no smoke at all. The primer was backed out just enough that the cylinder would not rotate. Here are a couple of pics they speak for themselves. This is definetly not something im proud of, but wanted to share my experience :banghead:
Magnum Shooter
Member
Woody174,
Don’t get discouraged it is part of the learning experience, and no real harm done. I bet you will never have a no powder problem again.
Don’t get discouraged it is part of the learning experience, and no real harm done. I bet you will never have a no powder problem again.
gamestalker
member
It's pretty clear to me that you had a squib. And while you were struggling to get the cylinder out, I can't imagine how would have failed to notice powder falling out all over the place, and on your hands. The backed out primer is a sure thing, in that, the primer did in fact propel the bullet into the forcing cone.
From a safety stand point, squibs can be deadly if the firearm can accept another live round into battery. You should feel fortunate in knowing that the bullet locked up the cylinder, not allowing you to rotate the cylinder, that is what saved your hide. Next time you reload, incorporate a step into the process that will prevent squibs from ever making it to the firearm. As well, any time you have a mis-fire, stop what you are doing and extract that cartridge, this allows you an opportunity to examine the firearm for a lodged bullet in the barrel.
It is not acceptable to think that if you reload you'll eventually experience a squib. Myself, I've only been reloading about 3 decades, and I've yet to encounter a squib. Take the extra few seconds to inspect every single cartridge for a proper powder charge, before you seat the bullet.
GS
From a safety stand point, squibs can be deadly if the firearm can accept another live round into battery. You should feel fortunate in knowing that the bullet locked up the cylinder, not allowing you to rotate the cylinder, that is what saved your hide. Next time you reload, incorporate a step into the process that will prevent squibs from ever making it to the firearm. As well, any time you have a mis-fire, stop what you are doing and extract that cartridge, this allows you an opportunity to examine the firearm for a lodged bullet in the barrel.
It is not acceptable to think that if you reload you'll eventually experience a squib. Myself, I've only been reloading about 3 decades, and I've yet to encounter a squib. Take the extra few seconds to inspect every single cartridge for a proper powder charge, before you seat the bullet.
GS
BSA1
member
I'm trying to figure out how you beat the cylinder open without damaging the bolt or locking lugs on the cylinder.
Been there done that on my 629. Had to tap it back into the case, felt stupid for a bit, but I'll take that kind of squib any day of the week over one that gets lodged in the barrel, or a double charge. Learned my lesson and have had 10k+ trouble-free rounds since. Just made me slow down and check things more closely.
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