Stuck bullet!

[wr400]

Just had my first an hopfully last reloading problem! My 357 revolver fired the primer an must have had no charge! I now have a stuck 357 slug between the Barrel an the cylinder! How do I get this out????????????

 

[kingmt]

Put a brass rod down through the barrel & tap it back into the case.

I also use some Dextron III to lube mine.

 

[rfwobbly]

Go to the hardware store and buy the largest wooden dowel that will fit down the bore without sticking. For a 357 that would be 5/16" (.312") or smaller. Cut the dowel just a tad longer than the barrel. Put the dowel into the bore and push the gun downward into a concrete floor. If it's really, really stuck you may need a hammer or a bumping motion. (I hate to use a hammer for fear of missing the dowel and whacking the gun itself.)

When the bullet is forced back into the cylinder, then you can open the cylinder and do a similar routine on the cylinder.

 

[wr400]

Thanks guys! I got it out!

 

[rfwobbly]

PS...

Welcome aboard !!

 

[Steve Koski]

I've been told that the wooden rod method can be problematic. If the rod splinters, you've got a bigger problem.

 

[Master Blaster]

When you hammer out any stuck bullet you have to be patient and use multiple light taps. That way you wont damage the gun or break your clearing rod off in the barrel. You dont hit it as hard as you can with a light sledge, and please dont place your revolver against the concrete floor. The table if solid will work fine. And please point the barrel in a somewhat safe direction while doing this.

 

[Jim Watson]

You can usually get away with using a wooden dowel to knock out a stuck lead pistol bullet. A jacketed pistol bullet or about any rifle bullet is a lot harder to drive and should be hit with a brass or coated steel rod as large as will slip-fit the bore. There have been reports here of barrels full of splintered wood, and then what do you do?

I knew a guy who stuck a 235 gr JSP in his .375 H&H and tried to push it out with a skinny cleaning rod. He drove the rod into the bullet core and expanded it even tighter in the barrel. I think he had a scarred barrel by the time he got tough with it and drove the mess out.

 

[GLOOB]

...and please dont place your revolver against the concrete floor. The table if solid will work fine.

Best to not put the gun against anything. Just hold the gun in the air by the barrel. The mass of the revolver, itself, is all you need to work against, if you use a light hammer with quick taps.

This is one good reason to use a hardwood dowel, versus brass. Brass is a lot denser and will slow down the energy transfer. Use a heavy enough rod and/or hammer, and you DO have to prop the gun against something or use a vice.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

I carry an oak dowel in my range bag for just such an occasion, even though it's rare. In more than 20 years of wheelgunning, I think I have had one bullet stuck in the bore. It was a reload from an unknown source. I have had a few jump out of the case and lock things up....It cost me about 30 cents to be prepared.

 

[kingmt]

"Brass is a lot denser and will slow down the energy transfer."

That doesn't make since. Wood would take more engery away because it would flex & crush more then brass. Brass would take more then steel. Brass is choice over steel. It will crush/move before the steel in the barrel. If you are going to use wood think about putting a brass case over each end so it doesn't splinter. It will use up more energy but it shouldn't splinter. A wrap of tape while not as good would help also. I've yet to have one hard to get out of a handgun. I don't think I would even consider wood in a rifle.

 

[wingman]

I prefer a wood dowel and lot of Kroil oil, let set a few minutes and tap softly the kroil oil will do its job, also add a led light to your press and watch close as you drop each charge may slow down the process but much better then hammering out squibs.