my first AR build - 6.5 Grendel

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VERY nice, love the color too.

I just built these two in 6.5, just waiting on a scope and the triggers to get here and they should be completely finished. I managed to get a few rounds through them for barrel break-in and function tests but haven't had a chance to brew any home loads yet. I'll get some better pics when they are complete.

Congrats again on the rifle, let us know how she shoots.


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longdayjake, what's the contour and rate of twist on that barrel (and where'd you get it)?
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Just from looking at it, I would have to say that it is a DSG Arms with a 1 in 9 twist...the contour I don't know (HBAR?). :)
 
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Nice Grendels fellas. Gives me a little inspiration for my 6.5G AA build. If only I could get ammo locally....
 
longdayjake, what's the contour and rate of twist on that barrel (and where'd you get it)?
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1-9 twist

I got it as a double star 20" rifle kit in 6.5 grendel from J&T distributing. The kit was $615 shipped and my lower is a $110 DPMS that I bought from a buddy. I believe it is a heavy barrel. I have since put in a RRA match trigger, upgraded the scope, and added a bipod, and now I'm looking for rails. I am sure when all is said and done it will be a lot more money, but thats normal for every AR. Its still a cheap build for a 6.5. Anything else will cost you a ton more.

It is going on my deer hunt this year.
 
It is going on my deer hunt this year.
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That's where my mind was wandering. 6.5 Grendel seems ideal for our North Carolina deer, must be OK for those behemoths that grow in Idaho, too.
I'm just thinking between 6.5G vs 6.8 SPC. The 6.8 should be fine and more readily available, but the Grendel's ballistics might make it worth the extra effort.
Thanks for the info.
 
So, I "axed".
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Just givin' you a hard time...and it was DSC (Double Star Corp.) so I was wrong...but there is a company called DSG that sells AR parts IIRC. :p

As far as the choice between 6.8 and 6.5...the Grendel wins out in every way from my point of view. Components are hard to get, but brass can be formed from cheap, readily available 7.62x39mm (so I have been told by some more experienced reloaders) making it very economical for the handloader. The ballistics also blow the 6.8SPC out of the water, approaching the ballistics of the venerable .260Rem. :)
 
Maverick223 said:
Just givin' you a hard time...and it was DSC (Double Star Corp.) so I was wrong...but there is a company called DSG that sells AR parts IIRC. :p

As far as the choice between 6.8 and 6.5...the Grendel wins out in every way from my point of view. Components are hard to get, but brass can be formed from cheap, readily available 7.62x39mm (so I have been told by some more experienced reloaders) making it very economical for the handloader. The ballistics also blow the 6.8SPC out of the water, approaching the ballistics of the venerable .260Rem. :)
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Laupa 6.5 Grendel brass is really expensive, but I was able to pick up 500 rounds of brand new IMI 7.62x39 brass pretty cheap and it's easy to fireform. I think the 6.8 and the 6.5 are relatively close up to 100 yards (the target's not going to be able to tell the difference), but the 6.5 just gets better and better as the distance increases compared to other cartridges. I think my next build will be a 12.5" SBR in 6.5 Grendel. As soon as I finish paying off my first one that is.
 
You guys are evil :evil:...now you have me thinking about building one (a lightweight build with a 16" bbl) for sniping...deer that is. I don't currently have a intermediate range rifle, and this may fit the bill nicely. What does your weigh in at (without optics)?
:)
 
If you don't mind me asking, where did you get the IMI brass and what did the 500 run you? Also, they use the large primers right?

I've looked at Lapua and AA brass on a few sites and ended up just ordering it direct from AA. It's about the best price and it's manufactured by Lapua anyway.

Out of the 30 Wolf I've ran between both of my Grendels I don't even want to bother with that brass since I've blown 1 primer and a couple of others are starting to go after 1 shot. I figured I'd probably just stick to the Lapua brass with small primers, but I'd consider the IMI brass at least to test a few loads in.
 
Let us know how it turns out and how it functions please. What country are you in?

It's obviously a beauty and a wonderful fun toy with quite a bit of practical uses too. It's close but no cigar as for being my cup of tea in a fighting rifle for a variety of reasons. But man what a cool build! :)

What does this thing weigh anyhow?
 
Maverick, no worries!

To reform 7.62x39 brass, you'd have to turn the neck, right?

What about up sizing 6mm PPC? Or is that brass just too expensive?
 
To reform 7.62x39 brass, you'd have to turn the neck, right?
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Never done it before, but IIRC all you need to do is run it through a 6.5G sizing die then load it (with less than normal powder), chamber and fire it. This is known as fire forming and it blows out the case to 6.5G specs. I believe that you do the same for 6mmPPC, but again I have never done it and am just getting started with handloading. :)
 
Big44mag said:
If you don't mind me asking, where did you get the IMI brass and what did the 500 run you? Also, they use the large primers right?

I've looked at Lapua and AA brass on a few sites and ended up just ordering it direct from AA. It's about the best price and it's manufactured by Lapua anyway.

Out of the 30 Wolf I've ran between both of my Grendels I don't even want to bother with that brass since I've blown 1 primer and a couple of others are starting to go after 1 shot. I figured I'd probably just stick to the Lapua brass with small primers, but I'd consider the IMI brass at least to test a few loads in.
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I got the IMI brass off Gunbroker. It appears to be very good quality, but does use a large primer however.
 
JohnMc said:
Maverick, no worries!

To reform 7.62x39 brass, you'd have to turn the neck, right?

What about up sizing 6mm PPC? Or is that brass just too expensive?
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I haven't turned any of the cases I've resized and they have worked fine. While all the IMI brass resized without a hitch, I also had around 90 cases of mixed Remington, PMC and Winchester and I crushed about 20 of them in the resizing process.
 
Uncle Mike said:
Simply beautiful.... nice job!

Mav... I have been tossing that very idea around, a piston 6.5G.

I am a fan of the Grendel!

Why do you suppose you are going to loose accuracy with the piston upper?
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The way Bob at Templar described it to me the piston rod induces flex between the barrel and receiver. Probably not an issue for a CQB gun, but not conducive to maximum accuracy when shooting at extreme distances.
 
Mav... I have been tossing that very idea around, a piston 6.5G...I am a fan of the Grendel!
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I too am a fan of the 6.5G...very good ballistics in a small OAL. I have never been a fan of DI, so it will be a piston for me.
The way Bob at Templar described it to me the piston rod induces flex between the barrel and receiver. Probably not an issue for a CQB gun, but not conducive to maximum accuracy when shooting at extreme distances.
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+1, the op. rod moves to the rear prior to the exit of the projectile resulting in a slight loss of accuracy. I am willing to part with 1/10 of a MOA to keep the rifle clean and functioning without gallons of lube cooking on the carrier. :)
 
To reform 7.62x39 brass, you'd have to turn the neck, right?
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No you do not. It actually comes out just slightly shorter than what AA has listed as the minimum case length. I have shot some of mine 4 times and I have had no need to trim the necks yet. As far as how to load for them from 7.62 brass, all you have to do is resize them, charge them with 1-2 grains less powder than you would with a hot load, and then shoot them. If you noticed on my gun I put a piece of velcro on the shell deflector because it helps with the dents that get on the brass. There are two things about the grendel that you have to be careful with when handloading for them.

1. The chamber specs are very tight so when resizing the die needs to be screwed ALL the way down and then some to bump the shoulder back far enough for it to chamber. (Thank Bill Alexander and his extremely strange need for perfection from his platform)

2. The light 6.5 bullets often have to be seated much deeper than mag length because the ogive is long and will get caught in the rifling and it wont chamber. (This is due to the fact that until now the 6.5 has been almost exclusively a bolt action only cartridge.

Of all the rounds I have handloaded for, the grendel took the most learning to figure out what works and what doesn't. Once I learned these two things it has been smooth sailing from there.

I haven't turned any of the cases I've resized and they have worked fine. While all the IMI brass resized without a hitch, I also had around 90 cases of mixed Remington, PMC and Winchester and I crushed about 20 of them in the resizing process.
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20 crushed casings is VERY HIGH. You were either doing something very wrong or your dies are not the best dies for handloading. I have used the LEE, Forster, and Redding dies with resizing about 100 pieces apiece with them and I have not crushed one casing. I very liberally lube the necks with wire pulling wax. No need to lube the body because it doesnt touch the die walls anyway until after fireforming.

Here are some that I made. The one on the left is a 6.5x39 before fireforming. The other two on the right are 6.5 grendel after fireforming. The one on the very right was made from once fired 7.62x39 which is why it has the crimp marks on the neck.

CIMG3411.jpg
 
I have Redding dies with the interchangeable neck bushings. I made no adjustments between the IMI brass and the other mixed brass. The necks of all cases were lubed. I'm not sure what the problem was, but like I said all the IMI brass resized easily without a single crushed case.
 
Do you rekkin that op rod receiver barrel 'flex' is evident in...say a M1A or Garand?
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Yes, possibly even in the ever-accurate AK-47 :D, however I do not think in makes a big difference in the grand scheme of things. For me it is a worthwhile upgrade. IMO if you are that concerned with the ultimate in accuracy then the only rifles to consider are select single shots and bolt actions. :)
 
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