skeeterfogger
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- Joined
- Jan 5, 2019
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- 1,280
Guess that depends on your eye sight.
That was answered in post #33
So I have a few newbie questions. Hope it is ok to ask here.
This is the first semi auto rifle I have owned, except my .22 from my grandpa.
As far as releasing tension from the bolt with no mag or rounds in the gun, what is best practice to release the bolt. Do I hit the bolt release and let it take itself home? Do I pull back the charging handle, hit the release and let it go? Or do I ride the bolt with the charging handle and use the forward assist to seat it.
This is with an unloaded rifle, and with or without a mag.
I know this may be common sense, but it doesn't say in my manual and I don't want to ruin my gun. Thanks for the insight
Always feel free to ask! And it’s a good question.As far as releasing tension from the bolt with no mag or rounds in the gun, what is best practice to release the bolt. Do I hit the bolt release and let it take itself home? Do I pull back the charging handle, hit the release and let it go? Or do I ride the bolt with the charging handle and use the forward assist to seat it.
This is with an unloaded rifle, and with or without a mag.
Always feel free to ask! And it’s a good question.
If I am closing the bolt on an empty chamber with no magazine, I’ll use the charging handle to close it gently.
The instructions to not ride the charging handle apply to chambering a round; the bolt needs a running start to reliably strip a round from the magazine and feed it reliably, so if you ride the handle down in that case, you can have it not close all the way and might have to use the forward assist to fully seat it.
Oil the guides on the bolt carrier, roughly at the ten and two oclock position, an eight and four oclock, the cam and inside bolt where the gas rings are.
ARs like being run wet, just not sopping wet.
FYI a lot of jamming problems are magazine related.
That is certainly another possibility that should be examined.While that's generally true, a gunsmith recently told me some jams are caused by using the wrong weight buffer spring for the gas system.
I bought the Ruger AR556 and mounted a Nikon P-223 scope and the front sight does impede the field of view a little.
I need to get a little higher mount, eventually..
I've suffered from neck problems since my 20s. I've recently jumped on the 1.93 height optics mounting options for AR15s. Red dot and variable optics alike. The new cheek weld takes a bit of getting used to, but it has worked for me. I did this without going out and dumping a bunch of money on all new mounts. Now, don't laugh, but I've been using the UTG risers. They are actually not bad. 6061 T6, CNC machined and decently anodized. I get them on ebay for around $20 shipped. I have one on the pistol on the left...https://photos.app.goo.gl/4M1fYAKPgXWN7Asu9 The one on the right has a Yankee Hill riser on it, but good luck finding one of those.
The 1.4"ish height of most mounts plus the .5" riser puts the optics in a perfect place for me.
Dunno why people laugh at UTG. Their risers are a-ok and their newer optics are pretty good at the price. They're not something SEAL TEAM SIX would use but they work for us civies.
Yes, back up iron sights are a good idea. You can use folding sights like MagPul BUIS - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...hat-to-do-with-it.863573/page-3#post-11403768Will the sight get in the way of a scope or red dot if I decide to put one on? I like the idea of iron sights in case a battery or something goes bad on the red dot.