My Glock broke!

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I don't know why they would use MIM on a pin either. Most likely it is just cut from a rod. I would bet the pin wasn't in all the way and seated properly because I have no idea how you would break a pin like that lol. I do believe this is considered a pretty freak occurrence. I would just pick up a few when you get a chance since this is such a small thing. I would just be glad everything else is working properly. It obviously isn't a mechanical error in the gun itself.
 
on another note.... I love how people still defend a gun that BROKE!!!

Its no big deal other than its a rather rare occurrence with Glocks. Get if fixed for free by Gllock then go out and shoot it until you are confident about it again. People get too hung up on insignificant stupid stuff.
 
I got something for everybody, take it to a freakin gunsmith and pay him 5 bucks and he'll fix it in about 3 minutes. Oh yeah, and the MIM parts being bad...somebody needs to learn a little about metalurgy before they bash MIM parts. I don't know how many of you know anything about cars but MIM parts are made in a manner that is very similar to GM's "powdered metal" connecting rods in their engines. Powdered metal rods are made of compressed metal at extreme heat that produce connecting rods in small block V8's that can handle upwards of 500hp...it used to require forged steel rods to take that kind of abuse. You don't see a lot of LS1, LS6, LS2, LT1, LT4 camaros, corvettes, firebirds, LS series small blocks in 99 up silverados that are beaten on for hundreds of thousand miles fail due to a broken rod, and the powdered metal rods are the reason. New metals and newer forming techniques produce stronger steel products than we had 10 years ago. The trucks we all love to drive have frames that are so light that you can cut a 2 ft lenght of frame rail out and carry it around with one finger. Newer steel and methods are better. Strength wise, MIM parts are comparable to forged parts from years gone by. Those against MIM, need to get with the program and join the rest of us in the future. Nobody thought that a "plastic gun" could stand up for any length of time but the "plastic" used is better these days than in the 1950's, so are the metal products produced now.
 
Sokyg., no decent gunsmiths in area. :(

Aomagrat, call Lawman's and see if they have the parts. Sorry I didn't see this earlier as we just hosted a GSSF match here in Columbia.
 
Gunsmith? How they respond? It's a pin! It's a $2.50 part that takes 30 seconds for any idiot with a nail to install. That's the nice thing about the Glock.

And oh yeah, to the OP...

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You broke your Glock!
 
I wish someone would compile all the broken Glock threads ever made into one thread for all the people that think Glocks never break. :|
 
any mechanical device can malfunction or break, including glock.

my glock 19 has been good so far, only one empty shell stovepipe in 2,000 rounds.

just call glock, i'm sure they'll take care of it for free.
 
I wish someone would compile all the broken Glock threads ever made into one thread for all the people that think Glocks never break. :|

If you're gonna go on a mission to ruin it for those 3-4 people still in blissful ignorance, then you might as well break the news about Santa Claus and the Easter Bunny while you're at it.
 
I've never broken a part on a CZ, but know that the slide stop might
break if you pound hot loads through it like a mad-man for thousand
or rounds.

However, I've never had a Glock or SIG break on me either.
 
I found this site and thread through google. I had the exact same thing happen to me today. Gen 3.5 Model 20 roughly 10k through it. Luckily it's an easy fix.
 
10K 10mm? That, to me, say a Glock is pretty darn tough! Rated life of a Colt Delta 10mm was about 7K of full 10mm loads. Then the Delta was expected to have need of an overhaul, or a cracked frame (also fixable with welding, refinishing, etc, by a competent smith, if needed).
 
The cracked frame comment is true of the earlier Delta's. The issue was later resolved IIRC. As for my Glock that cracked pin is the only issue I have ever had.
 
Since the last time I posted in this thread I had occasion to inspect the locking block pin on my G27, which has seen a little over 10K rounds through it. I was inspecting the whole gun and replacing some minor parts for preventive maintenance.

The locking block pin exhibited a couple of burnished wear points with burred edges corresponding to where it's acted upon by the locking block under recoil. I could see either of those wear points/burred edges eventually allowing the pin to break at some point.

I suppose that's why Glock listed the locking block pin in LE .40's on their wearable parts replacement schedule (with replacement at 5K rounds fired according to the list I received, dated '08, I believe).
 
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Most people are blissfully unaware of the maintenance schedule suggested by both manufacturers and experts. They want the pistol to perform as new for a lifetime with just an occasional cleaning and maybe even a spot of oil.

If we treated our cars/motorcycles/ATVs that way there would be no parts stores just a lot of repair shops.

The failure may have been premature, but must be planned for none the less. I look at this breakage as an excellent opportunity for the op to take the time to learn about his pistol. Let's hope Glock will replace the part and the owner will repair it.

As for MIM parts, they often do get a bad rap but it is in some instances deserved. I love my carbide tipped saw blades but there's a reason they don't make sledge hammers out of it: it's brittle. There are right and wrong materials for every application. The pin in question of course is not MIM, and I'd bet the poster who wrote that meant it tongue in cheek.
 
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