My model 28-2 identifies as a 44spl

I've gone as far as getting solid base wadcutter bullet moulds for 44 and 45 caliber bullets. Fun shooting at the range for a day of plinking.:)
Neat idea. My same load feeds a '73 and '92 lever gun, so not really an option for me.
I've been loading .44 Mags down a little as well, compared to WFO hunting loads. Reminds me, should try those in the '94 Marlin.
Moon
 
Craig,

You are never going to convert that to 44 S&W Special and you know it. Just send it to me and I WILL convert it to 45 ACP.

I will pm you my ffl information.

Kevin

That is a neat idea. Any limitations with the .45 acp conversion?
 
Is the conversion bored out or does it need a donor barrel and cylinder?
Cylinders are typically rechambered, which is preferable anyway. A custom gunsmith will cut a better chamber than a manufacturer. Barrels are trickier. It used to be no big deal to send a barrel to Cliff Labounty for reboring for $150-$200. Since his shop is no longer in operation, it's a little trickier to get it done and a replacement is often easier. Which S&W makes a good barrel.
 
Is the conversion bored out or does it need a donor barrel and cylinder?
On my converted Model 28-2, I installed a factory ACP cylinder and sent the barrel out to be bored and rifled by a now deceased gunsmith. As CraigC mentioned, smiths that are willing to bore and rifle a revolver barrel are getting hard to find. And 45 caliber factory barrels are not easily scrounged either.

Rechambering a cylinder from a smaller cartridge to a larger rimmed cartridge is relatively easy. Going to 45 ACP is harder.

Limitations on strength? None. I load my revolvers to hardball or hardball +. I have also used 45 Super recipes in the more modern, Model marked, revolvers.

Kevin
 
As for the .44 Special, gotta love it. My 6.5” 624 is currently back at Springfield because the gun started locking up (I think it may be a warped crane.), but my 5.5” flattop Blackhawk is a great shooter.
Does your 624 have longer bolt notches like on this picture:

ItgyCdY.jpg


If it doesn't, in that case you have pre "Endurance Package" 624. Apparently, when S&W realized that their 29 and 629 have a problem with durability, so on N-frame revolvers they redesigned mechanism, and use stronger steel(s) in some critical components, like cylinder crane. At the same time, they implemented CNC machines, and tightened tolerances on parts, so a lot of hand-fitting could be omitted. Well, on older models they cannot use strong (and hard) steels like for crane, so smiths on assembly lines could work on them. Those early S&W revolvers are very nice revolvers, with top fit and finish (except those from Bangor Punta time), but they are not durable revolvers as later ones. I was looking for a wile for 27 with 8-3/8" barrel and finally found one, but I was surprised when I noticed loose cylinder assembly. I asked folks in the shop (within a large shooting range in northern Toronto area) was somebody shooting some 357 "Nuclear" from it and they told me "No". It belonged to a long time shooter in that range, who was shooting nothing but 38 Special. But, I guess, even mild 38 Special loads in old 27, if round count is high, could wear it out. In that respect, since I am not collector, IMO later S&W revolvers are much better guns.
 
If it's going to make you take it out and shoot it more, I'd so go ahead and convert it.
 
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