My new G.I. 45

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Pythonman

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Jun 10, 2004
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Took my new Springield GI to the range today along with a box of Blazer Brass 230gr ball, a box of UMC 230gr ball, a box of my reloads- 200gr lswc over 5.0 gr W231 and a handful of Fiocci 230gr ball rounds. For a warmup I slow fired half of the box of UMC without a hitch and then I started in with the reloads, another 30 or so rounds. No hiccups yet. Accuracy good at 30yds, not great but good enough to make me happy considering it aint even broken in yet. After the 30 rounds of reloads I loaded up the clip with the Fiocci (had bad luck with this same batch of ammo in another Springfield-a milspec I had for 2 days once) and I slid the clip into the mag well with the slide already locked open and depressed the slide stop and the slide went forward and stopped out of battery. This was because either the mag may have not been clicked into place, crappy bullet lube all over the feed ramp from the reloads, generic Fiocci ammo or because I didn't slingshot the slide from closed to load the round. Take yer pick but I don't think it was the guns fault. Anyhow, another try with a mag full of Fiocci and a sling shotted slide and the gun fired right through all 7 no problems. Then I finished off the rest of the fiocci and went back to the reloads till they were gone. Had one more failure to go into battery with them but this time it was obvious that the feed ramp was pretty fouled from sticky bullet lube and powder. I cleaned it off best I could with my index finger and started with the Blazer ammo next. About halfway through the box I had another failure to go into battery on the first round (didn't rack the slide, just released the slide stop) stopped reloaded the mag again, racked the slide and finished the clip off without a hitch. After that, towards the end of the box of Blazers I think I had one more failure to feed on the last round and that was the last of the failures. Went back to the UMC ammo and shot through the rest of it without incident.

In all I'm more that impressed with the gun, I think if I'd have not shot those dirty shooting reloads the gun would have faired much better today so, I didn't see anything which would cause me to worry about the guns reliablity. The slide action is still a tad gritty and slide to frame fit is quite tight yet. It's nowhere's near broken in good yet. Next time will be better. Otherwise, ejection and extraction were decent, no stovepipes like my Norinco was good for. Also, accuracy quite nice, at one point I had a splendid 30 yard 2.5" 5 shot group with the Blazer ammo and the thick wood grips helped soak up much of the recoil nicely. Now to go clean her up for next time. I'll strip and clean the inside of the magazine this time also and possibly stone the bottom edges of the follower, they seem a little rough as well, which could explain some of the failures today. I'll report back here next weekend after my second trip to the range, this time with all factory ammo!
 
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Pythonman said:

I slid the clip into the mag well with the slide already locked open and depressed the slide stop and the slide went forward and stopped out of battery. This was because either the mag may have not been clicked into place, crappy bullet lube all over the feed ramp from the reloads, generic Fiocci ammo or because....
___________________________

Nope. The pistol should strip the top round and go to battery by tripping the slidestop. Bad ammo is likely...but test it with good ammo just to be sure. If it fails to go to battery with good ammo after another 200 rounds,
let it be known here.

It could also be an issue with the extractor or it might just need a
little slickerin' up. The GI Springfields have a close slide to frame fit, and the parkerizing causes the slide to drag a little. Oil it up and hand-cycle it
about 150-200 times and see if it gets smoother.

Standin' by...

Tuner
 
Tuner, I have Break Free CLP, Rem Oil and Hoppes lubricating oil, will any of these do the trick or should I get something else? Also, when I'm hand cycling the slide 200 times should I have the recoil spring installed or should I be doing it with it out of the gun? Thanks

BTW I'm fairly certain that my reloads caused most of the malfunctions, not cause I'm a bad reloader but that last batch of SWC 200Gr. were lousy with the blue bullet lube. No more lead reloads in my autos!
 
Slurry it

Howdy Pythonman,

If you've got CLP Breakfree, you've got half the recipe for the Magic Slurry.

Mix a tablespoon full of the oil with J&B Bore Cleaner until it will just start to
sag on the end of a screwdriver, but not drip off. Let it stand open overnight, and stir it well before use.

Get it in the frame rails, on the upper and lower lugs, link, barrel bushing ID, and a light smear on the disconnector/cocking rail in the middle of the slide. Use plenty of the stuff. If it's drippin' off the rails, it's about right. If
you remove the recoil spring, remove the spring guide too, since the stub guide rod will tie up the gun. With the guide rod removed, be careful how far you bring the slide backward, or you can damage the frame rails. If you
want to get in a hurry...leave the recoil system in place, but be sure to get the slurry off of everything when you're through. It'll feel like it's runnin' on buttered glass after the treatment.

Cycle it about100 times and add more slurry to the frame rails. Cycle it about another hundred or so times. Rinse it all out with Gunk Carb Medic, and let it air dry for 20-30 minutes. Oil everything up with the Hoppes
Gun Oil and see if things don't slide around better.:cool:


On your lead reloads...Try seating the SWCs about .010 deeper. Sounds like you had a little stem bind that the extra slide travel was able to overcome when you pulled it all the way and let it fly. OAL should be about 1.230-1.240 with the 200-grain lead SWCs...

Standin' by...

Tuner
 
That whole magic Slurry thing works great Tuner. I tok your advice on that recently with my Springer and threw the whole mess in in a sink full of hot dish water to scrub it out afterward, then reoiled/lubed. Slide is slicker than snot now, versus the sticky gritty it used to be.
 
re: Slurry

cracked butt said:

That whole magic Slurry thing works great.

Unrehearsed testimony from yet another satisfied Slurry customer!:cool:

Truth is, J&B Bore CLeaner is an excellent final lap when fitting slides to frames. The stuff isn't aggressive, and mixing it with the CLP makes it
even less so. 200 cycles with the mixture polishes the high spots and
probably won't open up the clerances enough to measure with a good depth micrometer. Great stuff! In the days before J&B, we used Du Pont
rubbing compound and Pearl Drops toothpaste for the final lap.

Luck!

Tuner
 
1911Tuner, that's cool about the Dupont compound and the Pearl Drops, I love hearing about the old school (cool school) methods of getting the job done!
Today I picked up a jar of J-B Non-Embedding Bore Cleaning Compound. Is that the stuff I'm looking for? Also, couldn't find any Gunk Carb Medic but I did find some Gummout Carb and Choke cleaner, will that do the trick or should I put that away for the lawnmower and get the Gunk? While shopping I picked up a 100rd box of Winchester target 45acp 230gr ball, 50rd box of UMC 230gr ball and another 50 rd box of Brass Blazer 230gr ball so hopefully Friday but no later than next Sunday I'll let you know how everything worked out. I'm keeping the gun regardless though, if there's any work to be done to improve reliability I'll get it done (I don't really think it's going to need it though) even if I have to send it to Cylinder & Slide. The only modifications down the road MAY be some Novak low mount 3 dot sights and a beavertail grip safety with a roundish hammer to go with. But, I may leave her as is....

The main point is, this is one heck of a nice gun and at the price I may have to pick up another down the road. I can see it happening already!
 
I use the O'Reiley/HiLo house brand of carb and brake cleaners. Much cheaper.

I find carb cleaner too agressive for general cleaning/degreasing. Brake parts cleaner is the same stuff as BC "Gunscrubber" at half or less the price. Only use either in a well ventilated area.

I've got some tough weeds around the pool deck that thrive on Round Up weed killer, I spray my guns out there so the waste solvent does in the weeds as well as clean my guns.

Be sure to test the underside of any rubber or plastic parts before wholesale application of either. The plastic on some CZ grips can't stand up to brake parts cleaner so remove 'em first. With carb cleaner I'd really worry about guns with a plastic mainspring housing or any kind of paint -- white sight inserts etc.

--wally.
 
re:

The question:

Today I picked up a jar of J-B Non-Embedding Bore Cleaning Compound. Is that the stuff I'm looking for? Also, couldn't find any Gunk Carb Medic but I did find some Gummout Carb and Choke cleaner, will that do the trick ..
____________________


That's the stuff, and the Gumout will work too. As wally pointed out, test it on plastic or rubber parts first. Carb Medic doesn't hurt Colt's nylon mainspring housings, triggers ,or their rubber grips...but it's better to know for sure.

Brake cleaner sucks the oil out of anything it touches, and isn't a good general-purpose blast cleaner. It can leave a residue that resembles dirty crayon wax, and is hard to remove from the nooks and crannies. Carb cleaner emulsifies the cack, and keeps it wet so it'll flush out.

let us know how you like the magic Slurry Treatment.;)

Tuner
 
I'll remove the wooden grips before spraying with the carb cleaner as they might get the finish on them ruined but as far as I can tell there is no plastic or rubber parts to ruin on the GI 45 is there?
As an alternative I have some Hoppes automatic gun cleaning solvent that dries clean and dry after usage, would that get rid of the magic slurry compound good enough or should I just go ahead and spray everything down good with the carb cleaner?
As usual, thanks too much for the help and good advice everyone!
 
Plastic

No other plastic that I know of on the GI Springer. Spray it out with the carb cleaner first. Let it air-dry, and follow up with the Hoppes. Oil everything as usual and see how it feels. Betcha yer gonna like.

When ya gonna detail-strip it?:cool:
 
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