MY PRECIOUS! New AR-15 build

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murphyrj

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Dec 2, 2010
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Virginia Beach, Va
I just built my very own AR-15 from scratch.

S&W M&P lower receiver
Timberwolf lower receiver parts kit
Magpul Stock
Yankee Hill Machine A3 Upper Receiver
Yankee Hill Machine BUIS
Yankee Hill Machine Folding Front Sight Block
Osprey Defense OPS-418 Midlength Piston Kit
Superior Barrels 16.1" Midlength Recce Barrel with Hard Blue
Midwest Industries SS Freefloat handguard (super light)
Smith Industries Vortex Flash Suppressor


I've named her Evelyn.

And there is a CZ-97B in the pic too.

I would like to here opinions of the build.

Murf
 

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Not yet. I just finished it last night. I might let somebody else shoot it first. Just in case it blows up with on the first round, HA! I've never built a rifle before, so I may have botched something up, but I'm fairly confident that it will be ok.
 
I might let somebody else shoot it first. Just in case it blows up with on the first round, HA!

On my first build, my eyes may have been closed just before the trigger broke on that first trial with one round loaded into the mag...but I'll never tell. :neener:
 
Yes. Midwest makes a great product. It's very versatile, you can put the rails only where you need them or even leave them off, and it's lightweight which is always a good thing.
 
I ended up with the MI SS forearm on my 5.56 build too. I am very pleased. I had a YHM light weight that I was considering, but am glad I decided on the MI. No rails where you don't want them and the capability to put a rail whereever you need.
 
i like it. I received a free magpul moe grip with my moe stock purchase. I really like it. You need one to match your stock. :) I was going to purchase a miad, but I've been happy with my moe version.

I really like your rails. I'm currently thinking about ditching my eotech and moe handguards in favor of a leupold mark ar and free float forend. I'm torn between the fore end like yours and the specter length YHM diamond series.

http://yankeehillmachine.com/store/product439.html

I really like your setup!
 
Yeah, I definitely want to change out the grip. I was also thinking of getting the Magpul angled fore grip for the rail. Next though, is probably some optics. I'm thinking of getting an ACOG with a RMR, it is a bit expensive but I have the funds....so I figure, why not?
 
I'm thinking of getting an ACOG with a RMR, it is a bit expensive but I have the funds....so I figure, why not?

Sounds like a winner to me. That would make for an awesome rifle.

I'm not using mine often so I have a hard time justifying that much in optics on my rifle. Maybe if I shot it way more often and started reloading...

I honestly just enjoy shooting handguns and 22 rifles more...so I'm just not going to put that much $$$ into the rifle.
 
very nice, thanks for sharing and good looking build. I am not a fan of piston ar's but other than that, i like it alot. You did good.
 
very nice, thanks for sharing and good looking build. I am not a fan of piston ar's but other than that, i like it alot. You did good.
Thanks Possum. I appreciate that. I had a lot of fun building it and I learned a lot too. I went with the piston system because it seemed reasonably cleaner and more rugged, and I'm lazy. I hope it works out well.
 
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I like it too and I am a fan of piston ARs (I have a couple of POFs). It seems like you've put together a well thought out AR. If it shoots half as good as it looks you'll be one happy camper. That Midwest Industries SS Freefloat handguard reminds me of the Sterling submachine gun (L2A3) ... cool!! :cool:
 
I like it! I built my first AR, but it is a bare bones M4ish carbine. My next one will be 100% assembled by me. Also, I like to pistol. Maybe I need to take a picture of my AR and 97 together. I know my 97 has well over 3k through it and it just keeps getting better.
 
murphyrj said:
Why ditch the piston? Do they cause problems?

Why indeed?!! I would suggest that you run it as is and provide a report to THR. It would be easy enough to switch it to a dgi system so why not try it out as is. As for gas piston ARs being problematic, I won't claim to have any inside knowledge regarding gas piston conversion kits, but I will put my two POFs up against ANY AR15 and AR10 variant out there in any kind of practical shooting scenario. They are both 100% reliable and accurate.
 
murphy, very nice build and I commend you on it. Since this is your first build, I just want to double check a couple of things. You're using the Osprey defense piston kit, right? Is the barrel nut that came with your handguard steel or aluminum? If it's aluminum, you may run into a problem. I'm only saying may. I haven't messed with that particular handguard, but if the nut is aluminum, it might be possible that it won't allow the op-rod enough movement to reliably cycle the action, due to the thickness of the nut. If it does allow enough movement to cycle the action, the Osprey kit relies on the barrel nut to act as a stop and the Osprey was designed to work with a milspec barrel nut. The op-rod will beat the hell out of an aluminum barrel nut. So....if you have an aluminum barrel nut, you may want to watch out for these things.

Another thing that you might want to watch out for is that the Osprey is pretty much a closed system, meaning that it doesn't vent gases (although there is some blowby). This also means that it's very efficient. The downside is that you may see some symptoms of overgassing. You may want to try running a heavy buffer to minimize the effects. Something like an H2 or heavier. You may also want to consider going with a POF roller cam pin. This will help to reduce the wear on the inside of your upper where the cam pin contacts the receiver, although whatever wear you do see will only go to an extent and then stop.

The last thing that comes to mind is if you decide later on to go DI and get rid of the piston setup. With my Osprey kits, after having fired almost 10K rounds, I could not get the piston chamber off of my gas block. I was able to remove the pin (after killing a few punches) but the spigot would not come out of the gas block, even after soaking it in kroil. In any case, you may be tempted to use a standard roll pin with the Osprey, because it's easier to get in and out, but don't. You NEED to use the steel pin that that kit came with. A standard pin won't stand up to the beating that the pin takes.

Other than that, I can't think of anything else off hand. The Osprey kit is very well done. Forget about HAVING to clean it, but don't forget to lube the bolt as you would with any other AR. It's easy to forget to do with the piston because the rifle won't stop running. You just don't want the bolt and barrel extension to wear excessively from being run dry.

To be honest, I liked the Osprey, but quite running it. I find that my ARs shoot smoother in DI form and as long as I lube them, they are just as reliable.

Again, nice build and good luck.
 
Tony. Thanks for the complement and for looking out for me. I do believe the Midwest barrel nut is aluminum. I will keep a watch on that.

I didn't know about roller cam pins, that's a great idea.

I am using the steel pin that came with the system. I am concerned about the front sight gas block moving, it is only held on with C-clamps, no pins. The barrel has a recessed dimple on the underside. I was thinking of drilling a small hole in one of the clamps and putting a set screw in there to properly align the gas block and prevent forward movement due to the forces from the piston system. I will have to evaluate further after putting some rounds through it.
 
Why ditch the piston? Do they cause problems?

Sometimes.

That they do however is add weight to the front of the gun and add unnecessary complication to what should b a simple design.

I have never seen an AR application that needed a system. the kits on the market are really there to drain people of their money that would be better spent elsewhere.
 
murphyrj said:
I didn't know about roller cam pins, that's a great idea.

I'm using POF roller cam pins in both of my POFs and also in a DPMS/BM dgi AR ... I like 'em and noticed a smoother action in all three rifles. As TonyAngel mentioned, matching the buffer and buffer spring is very important for timing. When it's right, these beasts will run and run ... when it's not, it makes for a lot of frustration.
 
murphy, if that is indeed an aluminum barrel nut, watch it. I'm really thinking that it isn't going to take much for the op-rod to peen the crap out of that nut, perhaps getting it to a point of having to cut stuff up to get it off. This, of course, assumes that the Osprey system will even operate with the thicker nut. Like I said, I really liked my Osprey system, but decided that it was more trouble that it was worth, in terms of shootability and compatibility with other parts. Some manufacturers are trying to come out with rail system to work with piston conversions, but the fact of the matter is that the Osprey was designed to be a drop in system for a bone stock M4 type of rig.

Still, if it runs, good for you. I wouldn't worry about that clamp on gas block. I seriously doubt that it will move. It will certainly do better than a set screw gas block. I'll bet that you'd destroy the upper before you are able to twist that clamp on gas block.

Not to harp, but like I said, I do like the Osprey, but only in limited applications. If I were you'd I'd try to recoup what I could on that Osprey and just go DI. DI is very reliable and shoots softer. In my experience, the Osprey does have it's advantages, but it also has it's disadvantages too. It's just a trade off for a different flavor of toy. What I do like about the Osprey is that it doesn't have many parts. Really, only two that are removeable. The op-rod that is solid steel and not likely to break, and the clip that retains it, which could be replaced with something as simply as a bent nail, if it got lost.

For me, I shoot a DI rifle faster and more accurately than I did when it was Osprey equipped. The incompability with other parts also made it a PITA. As far as DI reliability goes, my rifles (which I like to think were built right) run 100%. I lube with Slip 2000 every 500 rounds or so (whether it needs it or not) and have never had a problem, ever.

If you have your heart set on staying with the piston (and I wouldn't blame you, it's a neat system), then I'd pull that midwest tube and just go with a standard delta ring assembly and some MOE handguards.
 
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