I have owned a Taurus 970 tracker now for about three months and have put about 1,500 rounds through it. Recently it has been binding up. It works for about 35 rounds or so if I polish the cyclinder between the breech face and the breech face itself. After a small shooting session the cylinder will not move unless I turn it with my hand. The cyclinder gap does look abnormally small compared to the S&Ws I am used to. I would appreciate it if someone could educate me as to the reasons for a revolver cylinder to bind up. This is my first revolver so I am not too familiar with them.
My Revolver Bound Up!
- Thread starter Ben86
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230therapy
Member
Sounds like end shake problems. This is where the cylinder moves forward and back during the firing sequence. I had a similar problem with one of my revolvers. You will need to send it to a gunsmith to add spacers to keep the cylinder in place.
If you've been shooting lead there is the possibility that you've had enough buildup on the face of the forcing cone that's reduced the cylinder gap enough that its binding with the cylinder face. I had this happen to my first .357 mag Ruger Security Six many years ago. The gunsmith just took a file to the end of the forcing cone and used a set of feeler gauges to re-gap the cylinder.
CajunBass
Member
I'd bet on either "dirt" under the ejector star, or lead buildup at the forcing cone. I've had both happen to me. The first with a Colt Official Police, and the later with a Ruger Security-Six. A good cleaning, paying particular attention to those area's should take care of it.
PX15
Member
FWIW:
Add more fiber to it's diet..
J.
Add more fiber to it's diet..
J.
snooperman
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I have had this problem for years...
and I reload with lead bullets for many of my revolvers. Proper cleaning is a must with lead bullets especially around the entrance into the forcing cone and on the cylinder face too. Also check under the star in front of the cylinder and clean. If this does not work , get a competent gunsmith to look at it as there are other things that could be the problem as well.
and I reload with lead bullets for many of my revolvers. Proper cleaning is a must with lead bullets especially around the entrance into the forcing cone and on the cylinder face too. Also check under the star in front of the cylinder and clean. If this does not work , get a competent gunsmith to look at it as there are other things that could be the problem as well.
FullEffect1911
Member
This one sounds to be the culprit. I had this problem on a GP100, and no matter how clean you try to keep the Cylinder it still bound up. Ruger fixed mine at the time.
weregunner
Member
I own a Taurus 94 and a 941 which are kin to yours. To put that many rounds through the gun without cleaning seems like a minor miracle. 
As a whole it takes very little to dirty up any .22lrf revolver, regardless of brand.
As the others here have surmised the areas around the cylinder face front and back, ejector rod, ejector star, or just inside the frame itself. Even the firing pin channel will need to be cleaned out.
All the nooks and crannies where grit,debris, and grime will need to be cleaned out with gun cleaner ( Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber comes to mind). Same goes for around the cylinder pawl.
Then that puppy should be up and running again.
Yes, it could be the cylinder play, but look at the cleaning task first. That is usually the main culprit. it has been for mine.
Tolerances for the Taurus can be awful tight. They are on my guns.
As a whole it takes very little to dirty up any .22lrf revolver, regardless of brand.As the others here have surmised the areas around the cylinder face front and back, ejector rod, ejector star, or just inside the frame itself. Even the firing pin channel will need to be cleaned out.
All the nooks and crannies where grit,debris, and grime will need to be cleaned out with gun cleaner ( Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber comes to mind). Same goes for around the cylinder pawl.
Then that puppy should be up and running again.
Yes, it could be the cylinder play, but look at the cleaning task first. That is usually the main culprit. it has been for mine.
Tolerances for the Taurus can be awful tight. They are on my guns.
wheelgunslinger
Member
If you haven't detail stripped that Taurus and given it the most thorough of white glove cleanings, then that's the place to start.
That's a lot of ammo burned through that gun for you to not remark that you've taken it completely apart and cleaned it like a drill instructor is standing over you watching.
That's a lot of ammo burned through that gun for you to not remark that you've taken it completely apart and cleaned it like a drill instructor is standing over you watching.
I have cleaned it several times. I've even detail stripped it and cleaned it out.There is no way this gun would have went through 1,500 rounds without cleaning.
It turns out their was a shiny, thick layer of lead molded to the forcing cone that I mistook as part of the cone. It must have been there sense I went through the last of my lead rounds. I have sense switched to exclusively using copper plated bullets. After I scraped the lead off with a flat head screwdriver and sanded it, and the business end of the cylinder with fine sand paper it runs fine.
The cylinder gap is so tiny on this gun. You would think that they would realize how dirty .22 ammo is and see a need for ample cylinder gap. What if I filed the forcing cone down a bit?
It turns out their was a shiny, thick layer of lead molded to the forcing cone that I mistook as part of the cone. It must have been there sense I went through the last of my lead rounds. I have sense switched to exclusively using copper plated bullets. After I scraped the lead off with a flat head screwdriver and sanded it, and the business end of the cylinder with fine sand paper it runs fine.
The cylinder gap is so tiny on this gun. You would think that they would realize how dirty .22 ammo is and see a need for ample cylinder gap. What if I filed the forcing cone down a bit?
rmfnla
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Don't file the forcing cone; that will ruin the gun!
Yes, .22 ammo is dirty; one of the weaknesses or .22 revolvers.
Now that you know what caused the problem just make sure to clean the forcing cone face. A brass brush is good for this.
BTW, what did you mean when you said you "polish" the cylinder?
Yes, .22 ammo is dirty; one of the weaknesses or .22 revolvers.
Now that you know what caused the problem just make sure to clean the forcing cone face. A brass brush is good for this.
BTW, what did you mean when you said you "polish" the cylinder?
wheelgunslinger
Member
You learn with revolvers by doing.
One of the larger cleaning lessons with them is to keep the cone clean and up to snuff. Lesson learned.
Lead ammo isn't that big a deal if you clean up after it. You'll likely still have to clean the cone even with use of jacketed ammo because of the gap.
*thumbs up*
One of the larger cleaning lessons with them is to keep the cone clean and up to snuff. Lesson learned.
Lead ammo isn't that big a deal if you clean up after it. You'll likely still have to clean the cone even with use of jacketed ammo because of the gap.
*thumbs up*
I love it when I solve my own problems without having to run to the nearest gunsmith.
People run to the gunsmith for some dumb stuff. One time I talked to a guy that was bringing a rifle in just because it had a ruptured case (probably a failed reload) stuck in the chamber. I told him that if he just pushes it out the back it should come out, at least enough to yank it out with pliers, whereupon the chamber can be inspected for damage. I told him his cleaning kit probably came with a rod made for pushing obstructions out the barrel. He said he was too scared to touch it. What a wiener.
I'm still going to stick with copper plated stuff, because I only want to have to clean it ever 100-200 rounds. I know, what a lazy cuss.
People run to the gunsmith for some dumb stuff. One time I talked to a guy that was bringing a rifle in just because it had a ruptured case (probably a failed reload) stuck in the chamber. I told him that if he just pushes it out the back it should come out, at least enough to yank it out with pliers, whereupon the chamber can be inspected for damage. I told him his cleaning kit probably came with a rod made for pushing obstructions out the barrel. He said he was too scared to touch it. What a wiener.
I'm still going to stick with copper plated stuff, because I only want to have to clean it ever 100-200 rounds. I know, what a lazy cuss.
rmfnla
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Don't do that, either; sandpaper will remove metal and increase the cylinder gap.
Get a brass or bronze wheel that can be chucked into a hand drill; it will take off all the lead and not harm the cylinder. It will remove bluing so be careful not to let it slip off the cylinder face.
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