My scope bottomed out

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Sappyg2.0

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Long story short. POI is still high and I'm at the limit of my scope.

After removing the scope I found that the front bottom ring was shimmed. This makes sense but I want to confirm with THR. Should I remove the shim? Maybe even add shims to the rear? The reason I ask is that I know that when you bore sight a rifle the windage and elevation are opposite the of the scope adjustment markings.
 
Burris Signature Zee rings.

A shim under the front ring should lower your POI, if it has one in the front, adding one in the rear will raise your POI. You need more shim in the front.

What bases and rings are you using? What scope?
 
The base is a 25 year old redfield 1 piece on a Winchester CRF 243 featherweight. The scope is a leupold 2x7 vx1.
 
It sounds like you have 2 totally different rings or mounts to be that far off. I'm not sure shimming will fix the problem. It may be time to look for new rings or mounts.

kwg
 
You might better check and be sure there's not a shim under the rear of your base, too. I'm thinking unless the base is warped, all you should need is a new set of Redfield or Leupold rings... so you know they match. And pay attention to the torque values so they're even.

Speaking of torque, I'd recommend you check your action screws, as well as your barrel channel. That is, if you haven't already. The source of the problem isn't always what you expect.
 
i would get a new base something is wrong. i would check the scope to put it on a 22 to check it. if you don't or cant get a new base zero the scope by counting the clicks then center it. put the gun i a good rest even a vise with padding. pull the bolt out and look down the bore and find a target to stay on 25 to 50 yards away. if the base is right and the base holes are strait. u should be close in your scope to your target u see in the barrel. adjust the scope if needed shim if u run out

if anything is funny with the scope send it in. check that the barrel is on strait or not bent i have seen this before on 2 Winchesters
 
is it a 0 moa base? how old is this scope, may be very travel limited if there's too much moa or not enough. alot of older leupold are very travel restricted
 
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Who originally mounted the scope? Apparently it is a used gun as you were surprised to find the shim

This was my 1st center fire rifle bought new when I was much younger. I had the scope mounted to the base at the store. The original POS redfield scope was replaced with the vx1 several years ago but I never spent much time with the gun after. I do recall bottoming out at 100 yards after changing scopes but figured I could live with it. I cant.

Now things have taken a turn for the worse. I just stripped the Allen heads on the base at the chamber and cant remove the base. This project just snowballed.

Edit to add pics
 
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When you get it off replace those mounts with something a little more modern. Those are probably the worst possible choice.
 
That does not look like the right base for your rifle. I didn’t take time to look it up but the scope you have should have 60 or 80 moa of adjustment so if your out of adjustment something is seriously screwed up.
 
Whoever mounted that on your rifle should be flogged with a bore snake, Sappyg2! Replace it with a mount that is correct for your rifle;looks like they just slapped on whatever they had in the shop! I prefer Talley mounts, or Weaver-type bases and Zee rings.
 
When you get it off replace those mounts with something a little more modern. Those are probably the worst possible choice.

Nothing really wrong with the mount style - they work fine and visually look a little more classy than Weavers.

Still, regardless of style the bases should fit the rifle correctly and those look like they're not fitting the rear receiver bridge quite right. I'd try another base, lower rings (if you can get away with it with your scope), OR shim the front rather than the rear ring.
 
I would get a picatinny base and the Burris rings already recommended. That way you will never have to worry again about the tube being too long or short, and in the unlikely scenario the rings don’t cover an elevation issue, you can shim the base. And a one piece base is exponentially better for shimming than two piece.
 
I’ve had numerous people bring me dad’s or granddad’s old deer rifle that they want to mount a newer scope on. A large percentage of the rifles have the base screws red loctited and even the ring screws are loctited on some.
 
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I've been eyeballing that Redfield base some more just now... looks to me like that one possibly belongs on a Savage pre-Accutrigger Model 10 which has a flat bridge lower than the front reciever ring. It appears to me that you don't need a different style base near so much as you need to get the right model designation for your rifle.

If this Mickey Mouse job was done by the shop where you bought the rifle, chances are you don't need new rings as you may have a matching pair. Consult your dial calipers to be sure of the height of both rings... if they are the same from the top of the base to bottom of the saddle, you're set.

The way it sits right now, though, the base is torqued. I'm seeing it in the pics. I figure it's possible that torque on your scope might be just enough to bind the adjustments internally.
 
I’ve had numerous people bring me dad’s or granddad’s old deer rifle that they want to mount a newer scope on. A large percentage of the rifle have the base screws red loctited and even the ring screws are loctited on some.

Only way I know is heat....a bit of heat in an area I really don't want to put 500-ish temps..on itty bitty fastners that are going to bust if you don't.

If you know of another way I am all ears.
 
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