My small T99 Arisaka Sporter Family....

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LoonWulf

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Just finished (for now) my 6.5-284 Arisaka, figured it was a decent time to take some pictures of the lot and post up the completed projects. While i realize these aren't everybody's cup of tea, I had a great deal of fun working on them, and I appreciate the input that I received from the forums when Ive asked for suggestions and help.
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This my original sporter.
I bought it pretty much the way you see it, tho it was set up for the original sights. I initially fitted a Williams peep sight, and higher front post, but eventually decided the gun was accurate enough to deserve a scope (and for some reason i already had a couple scope mounts for these things).
I also added the stud to the cocking knob on the bolt so its easier to operate the safety with the scope in place.
The action is bedded into the Fajen stock now, which it wasnt the last time I shot the gun.

With the old Japan made scope, and 150grn pvi btsp powered by 4895, this gun will deliver consistent accuracy around 1.5"s and velocity rivaling the .30-06 in standard loadings.
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Next up is the 6-284 that I bought locally. The gun was already in its current configuration when i bought it. I did refinish and bed the action to the stock (also Fajen, but a different design), and smooth out some of its cosmetic issues.

The one neat thing about this particular rifle (besides the chambering), is that its set up to feed from a savage 10 centerfeed mag box. Unlike my 6.5-284, this gun didnt want to cycle and eject shells properly. The poor ejection was caused by the claw not holding the case tight on extraction, which was easily fixed by fitting a different extractor which engaged the case a little more.

The feeding issues werent surprising considering its a fatter and straighter walled case. With short bullets like the original owner was shooting thru it, the cases would pop up into the action like a push feed before the bullets would hit the barrel face, and the original claw was modified to snap over the rims without a lot of force. With the longer 95s and 100s i wanted to run, they would ride too high coming out of the mag, and would end up going tail down and jamming the action.
My solution was to fit a savage centerfeed mag box to the gun, which allows the cartridges to ride nicely up into the claw, and releases before the bullets hit the chamber. Its actually made cycling this gun surprisingly pleasant, even with the unusually short bolt handle. Downside? Only holds 3 rounds.

The scope on this ones my old, very first, Nikon 3-9x40. It was given to me as a gift 18 years ago, and has been on nearly every rifle Ive hunted with since.

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And last but not least is my recently returned from ER Shaw 6.5-284. I bought this gun as a "sporterized" project. Someone in its past had done a surprisingly nice job of splicing on and shaping the original stock into a "sporter" design, but a not so nice job and shortening the barrel to 19", and more importantly partially rechambering the rifle to 06.
Since id already spent the money on getting a modified bolt to tinker with, I decided to remove the barrel and have it replaced with a stock barrel. Unfortunately that turned out to be a huge pain in the butt, and since i ended up removing the barrel myself at this point i decided to send it off to ER Shaw to get a new tube put on it.
I went thru a rather long process of trying to figure out what cartridge to have it chambered in, which a number of highroaders helped me with. Eventually I decided i wanted to try a 6.5-284. While it was there I had them install a modified DNZ game reaper mount for the savage 10 series.

I decided to spring for a new stock around the same time. So I sold the old stock on ebay and saved up to ordered a Boyds Prairie Hunter In Coyote, which while not perfect is still pretty nice.
Topped this one with a Nikon Buckmasters 4-14x40

I havent gotten a chance to load rounds for much less shoot this gun yet, as i only fitted the stock late last weekend. Hopefully sometime in the next couple weeks ill get a chance to shoot it tho.
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The only things I have left to do on these are add Timney triggers, which will happen slowly as funding becomes available. Tho there is another Ari sitting in one of my local gun stores with a sporter stock, nicely bent bolt and Timney trigger already installed......
 
I'm not well versed on Arisakas, but do these rifles have the metallurgy to withstand the pressure ratings of modern actions? Or do you have to keep them "lower" to avoid a kaboom?

OP Very Nice rifles BTW
 
Some individuals decided to test poor old military rifles to destruction. The Arisakas, believe it or not, were the champions. Similarly, a person went to the NRA offices of the American Rifleman asking for help on his hard kicking Arisaka that had difficult extraction and bolt, etc. The rifle that he was firing was a T38 Arisaka with a 6.5 mm bore but rechambered for .30-06. When he fired the rifle, the bullet was swaged down to 6.5 at what must have been horrendous pressure. The NRA technical experts confirmed the gentlemen's story by firing the rifle themselves and obtaining similar results.

Here is an old THR forum regarding the strength and testing of those Arisakas (also see Frank DeHaas in his Bolt Action Rifles book or Gen Hatcher in his book). https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/strongest-action-arisaka.3994/
I'm not well versed on Arisakas, but do these rifles have the metallurgy to withstand the pressure ratings of modern actions? Or do you have to keep them "lower" to avoid a kaboom?

OP Very Nice rifles BTW
 
LoonWulf,
Those are gorgeous and you will find the ammo much easier to obtain than the 7.7 Japanese or the 6.5 Japanese. I have found that the 7.7 nearly duplicates the .303 which is why I started buying T99 Arisakas in the first place because I could use .311 bullets to reload both which led to a Mosin, and . . . . .
 
LOL, boomboom beat me to it. I dont have any good information to add, to that. Ive read that the t38 Aris metallurgy, and heat treats were superior to pretty much anything that had been made before, and that carried into the T99. The destructive testing, both intentional and non, seem to bare that out.

Thanks guys.


True there is some factory ammo on the shelf here for the 6.5x284, and components are everywhere, Even the 6-284 cost me less to set up to load for than the 7.7.
The 7.7 tho is no slouch in terms of performance, and the PVI cases ive been using have proven capable of taking the pressure and repeated use. Ive only done accuracy and pressure ladders on my current 7.7 load, but after we get moved ill go out and see what speeds they are running.
 
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LOL, boomboom beat me to it. I dont have any good information to add, to that. Ive read that the t38 Aris metallurgy, and heat treats were superior to pretty much anything that had been made before, and that carried into the T99. The destructive testing, both intentional and non, seem to bare that out.

Thanks guys.


True there is some factory ammo on the shelf here for the 6.5x284, and components are everywhere, Even the 6-284 cost me less to set up to load for than the 7.7.
The 7.7 tho is no slouch in terms of performance, and the PVI cases ive been using have proven capable of taking the pressure and repeated use. Ive only done accuracy and pressure ladders on my current 7.7 load, but after we get moved ill go out and see what speeds they are running.

Please do so on the Arisaka. I have pretty much just used PVI brass for the milsurps because of quality and the initial loadings are usually quite gentle (although there is a hot 8mmx57 load for those wanting recreation of German WWII ammo).

I have a beautiful, fully kitted, T99 with the aeroplane wings, mum, gorgeous bluing, solid stock, and even the wire bipod (which is somewhat worse for the wear) that I have not yet got to shoot along with a long T38. During the last several years, I have been rebuilding them more than shooting due to some health issues that appear to be getting better with my current condition in apparent remission.
 
Some individuals decided to test poor old military rifles to destruction. The Arisakas, believe it or not, were the champions. Similarly, a person went to the NRA offices of the American Rifleman asking for help on his hard kicking Arisaka that had difficult extraction and bolt, etc. The rifle that he was firing was a T38 Arisaka with a 6.5 mm bore but rechambered for .30-06. When he fired the rifle, the bullet was swaged down to 6.5 at what must have been horrendous pressure. The NRA technical experts confirmed the gentlemen's story by firing the rifle themselves and obtaining similar results.

Here is an old THR forum regarding the strength and testing of those Arisakas (also see Frank DeHaas in his Bolt Action Rifles book or Gen Hatcher in his book). https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/strongest-action-arisaka.3994/

Arisaka's are darn impressive.

 
Thats a pretty cool video!
The loads im using in the 7.7 are similar in charge weight but i assume they are running the 175/180s.
 
Thats a pretty cool video!
The loads im using in the 7.7 are similar in charge weight but i assume they are running the 175/180s.
Not going to ask you on an open forum about what you load but what powders did you find useful?
 
The type 38 6.5 action is the stronger of the two. The locking lugs on the bolt are considerably larger than the T-99 (or Mauser, Springfield, or just about anything else) and the left lug isn't slotted for the ejector. The actual bearing surface of the two lugs is about 40% larger than the others. Frank De Haas stated that either action could be safely re-barreled to anything that will fit into the magazine.
 
Not going to ask you on an open forum about what you load but what powders did you find useful?

Im running IMR 4895 right now in the 7.7, my loads arnt nuclear by any means, but they are over what is spec for the 7.7. I usually play with slower powders but Im pretty sure ill need to get some of the RL series If i want to better 4895 at this point.
I tried 4350, and found that its a bit too slow for the case capacity, but still pretty functional. I also tried Superformance, but with little to reference I think i had the density too low and had issues with ignition. I gave up on that one for now.
Honestly my only real concern with pushing the 7.7 to near standard 06 class of performance is that the brass might not hold up, but so far Ive had great luck with PVI brand brass and durability. I use it in 4 cartridges now.
The x284s actually produce more thrust than the 7.7 or 06.

The type 38 6.5 action is the stronger of the two. The locking lugs on the bolt are considerably larger than the T-99 (or Mauser, Springfield, or just about anything else) and the left lug isn't slotted for the ejector. The actual bearing surface of the two lugs is about 40% larger than the others. Frank De Haas stated that either action could be safely re-barreled to anything that will fit into the magazine.

Thanks Tark, thats good info. Ive never handled one of the t38s, tho again...theres a project waiting to happen here that i keep not buying.....
 
So what comes up for sale on ebay the day after i get the boyds stock fitted to the 6.5-284, but the EXACT Fajen stock ive been trying to find, for probably the last year. And its in great shape. Tho now i have a whole nother project of pillar bedding and fitting this one. Sold the boyds on ebay to pay for this one
The stock came with a new model weaver rail which has more than 2 slots (old one had 2), and a really good shape 3x32 japan made tasco which went back on ebay also....tho its so nice I nearly kept it. So atleast im not loosing a ton on the swap.


Ill need to refinish the fajen stock also, looks like it has a poly finish thats worn in a few areas
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I've been following this thread with interest because it's such a good, family oriented subject and that sure is a nice family. I'm sort of a "closet" Arisaka fan and several times have almost bought one but at the time had too many other distractions but they sure are interesting and unique rifles.
 
Nice :) . You don't see too many Japanese arisaka's these days. I've had a few but the cost and availability of factory ammo, or lack there for of was an issue for me since I don't reload so I ended up trading them for Mosin's awhile back. However I recently picked up a beautiful Type 99 that was rebarreled & rechambered by master wildcat gunsmith W.F. Vickery here in Boise Idaho back around 1950 or so. It's the most accurate 22 (5.56) I have, but it's definitely not a frequent shooter.

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Yeah i obviously like them lol. One thing id like to do is work out a cock on opening "kit" for them, realy i think it could just be done with a modified firing pin.

Thats a sweet arisaka! I like the chambering also
 
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  1. Yeah i obviously like them lol. One thing id like to do is work out a cock on opening "kit" for them, realy i think it could just be done with a modified firing pin.
Thats a sweet arisaka! I like the chambering also

Thanks, believe it or not I traded an 18" Armscor High Standard 12 gauge pump shotgun for this. A guy made me the trade offer and I jumped all over that one :) . Personally I think it would have been a lot better if it was rechambered in 6.5 Swedish but seeing as how who it was made by, I'm not about to go mucking it up
 
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GREAT TRADE!!!

Whats the twist on the barrel?

That's a good question unfortunately I don't have a clue because the barrel isn't labeled. On another note this thing is so accurate I can basically write my name with it and shoot Moa @200 yds if I do my part
 
Very nice looking rifles Loon & gsbuick. I know alot of people don't care for them, but I love mine. I have a relatively rare T38 Calvary carbine, and not the one they cut down to make it shorter. It has the intact mum, and bluing is still pretty good. It was rechambered in 6.5x257roberts. It also shoots very well considering it still has the iron sights and hasn't been drilled for a scope. Because it's kinda rare and it was my grandfather's and holds some sentimental value to me, it will likely keep the original stock and irons. But I am keeping my eye out for a good deal on a a standard T38 that I can do what you have done to yours. Great looking rifles you have there.
 
Arisaka Kokura Arsenal type 99 sporterized 7.7 japanese $125+$12tax= $137 01/13/17 FFL 59460 manufactured 1941
Convert to 257 Roberts
257 Roberts Winchester M70 barrel take off unfired...Ebay Jan 06, 2017 $75.00 + $20.00 shipping =$95
Timney 313 trigger $90+ $5 shipping= $95 midway installed with many relief cuts
Devcon steel putty epoxy, 3/8" steel tube for pillars, steel recoil lug fab, Uncle Mike's sling stud, Weaver Steel base #54 [height altered] and #35[blow hole added] Millet angle lock scope rings low
1.4" eyepiece scope objective for tight curve bolt weld: Leupold 120617 vx2 rimfire EFR CDS 3x9x33 $364.99

100 gr nosler ballistic tip 46 gr IMR-4451 2.963" OAL jammed into the lands
2926 fps chrono
2936
2911

Sighted in before hunting:
1" 3 shot group at 200 yards 10-29-2017
 

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Last year's 308 Arisaka with Springfield barrel looked good, but I could not get on the paper.
This year's 257 Arisaka is shooting the lights out.
Now that I know how to do extractor relief, metric threads, and timney trigger relief in trigger guard....
I need to drive to the pawn shop. [I hate searching for parking spots], but I can see they have two of them.

Japanese Type 38 Arisaka 7.7 Jap 54XXX Sporterized, non matching bolt $150
Japanese Arisaka 7.7 Jap 54XXX Sporterized, aftermarket stock. $150
 

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I keep thinking about going down and offering on the t99 in one of the shops here.

What mods need to be done for the timney trigger besides inletting the stock for the saftey?

The extractor cut on the 6-284s barrel is a tad too shallow, i had to remove a bit of material from the front of the extractor. At some point ill try pull the barrel and file a bit more on the notch.
 
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I drove there. Parking was easy, traffic was hard.
They had sold one of the Arisakas.
The one they still had had a bolt bent for a peep, not a scope. I don't know if I can bend it some more.
They said at $125 guys buy them to part them out.
 

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