Mystery rifle, can you help me identify it?

Status
Not open for further replies.

Ivy Mike

Member
Joined
Feb 29, 2004
Messages
2,769
Location
Las Vegas, NV
My grandfather gave it to me when he moved. Its a simple .22lr autoloader and feeds from a tube magazine. It has an old steel tube Weaver 4x power scope that I took off to take the pictures.
I've got no idea who made it or if someone ghost-built it for someone else.
at any rate, here are the pictures. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I have fired it a few times, and while the irons are so-so, its a tack driver with the scope on.
An oddity is that when you fire, the bolt is held back until you release the trigger. Also, the cocking knob can be pushed in and used to either lock the bolt closed (it will fire like that) or open. Bolt does not hold open on the last shot.

2zodclc.jpg
2rz8cpk.jpg
2rgkitv.jpg
Ranger 101-16 is the only marking that might be identifying.
4d33yc6.jpg
47jwuav.jpg
2wo8zyh.jpg
47v9q92.jpg
 
Clean97GTI,

The Ranger name was used by Sears, Roebuck and Co. The rifle was made for them by Savage/Stevens Arms Corp. It is known as the model 87, 87A, 187, etc. I have a Springfield/J.Stevens Arms model 87A, and it is also a tack driver.

Don
 
OK, found a little more information.

Its got a patent number on it.
Patent 2,094,577 issued to a N.L. Brewer in 1937.
Savage arms is mentioned on the first page of text.

Only thing that strikes me as off, is that the pictures depict a bolt action. The trigger assembly is similar.

no mention of model number.
 
Looks almost exactly like a Stevens Model 87D I used to have. The only difference is the cocking handle (and the markings). The cocking handle was much smaller on mine. I used if for a while then gave it to my dad. It was reliable and very accurate. He still uses it for a truck gun.

It was hard to get used to the bolt staying back until you let go of the trigger. It would shoot long rifles in semi-auto. You could also use short, long, and long rifles when you pushed in the knob. That made it work like a bolt action.

Hope this helps.

Man-O-War
 
If my memory serves me correctly, yes you do have to push the knob in to shoot each round of long or short. You just operate it like a bolt action. Cycle it by hand to load one in the chamber, push the knob in to lock it, then shoot. Then pull out the knob, cycle the bolt to eject the empty brass and load a new round. It has been a while now but it seems like if you shot shorts without pushing the knob in, it would not cycle completely and the empty brass would hang up inside the action.

BTW, I miss my old 87D. I'll get another one some day. It was a really good rifle.

Hope this helps.

Man-O-War
 
I don't know what the difference is, but other than the stock color it looks just like my Savage 6A.

And yes the bolt has to be engaged each time you shoot with shorts.

I have had mine since I was 18.
I bought it in a pawn shop for $10 in '80 or 81.

I shot a snake swimming upstream in the head with a downward 45% angle shot from the top of a bank, back then
I could not even see the snake now
 
it is a Savage, they are easily id'd by the vent ribs on the left side of the receiver. They are supposed to fire s,l,lr's, I have bought 2 , in hopes they would. i would so love a semi auto firing a tube full of shorts! But they never do act , with being a jammo matic.
 
I'm with Joab

The action looks exactly like the Savage 6a I just purchased a couple of weeks ago. I've shot a couple hundred rounds through it without a single problem. As with Joab, my stock is a bit darker--actually I think it is walnut. I was very impressed with the accuracy with simply the iron sights.
 
I'll get a couple shots of the scope my grandfather had mounted to it.
Some ancient steel tube Weaver. This rifle is easily more accurate than my 10/22.

I got it when he moved 2 years ago and it hadn't been fired since he retired from LAPD in 1974.
 
Rifle worth keeping

Hello All,
This is my first post to this forum. I was doing a search for the Savage 6A and landed here. Yours is a close clone of it except for color. I was wondering how old these guns are. My dad bought the one I have for my older brother back in the mid to late 50's. My brother doesn't shoot or hunt, so I inherited it. My two boys grew up shooting bulk 22 rounds through it and I also shot it a lot back in the 60's.
Mine says on the left side of the receiver "Long rifle only as automatic". It fires on and on without any jams using long rifle ammo. I gave it a good cleaning and gave it a deep Remington type blue. I grew up with those iron sights and it hits everything you shoot at. I took it to the rifle range over Labor Day and gave it another good workout. I only shoot jacketed rounds through it now after getting most of the lead out of the rifleing from years of my sons shooting bulk ammo through it. They cleaned it, but their definition of clean and mine is a bit different.
Bottom line is, it's a tough rifle and still shoots well after 50 years. I'd be interested in how a scope was mounted to it. Did a gunsmith do the work on yours or did your grandpa say? I think mine is worthy of some work along those lines. I'd love to see a new Burris or Leupold scope atop that 6A, but only because my eye sight isn't what it used to be. :)
 
Used to have one years ago, definately a Savage/Stevens. Nice little gun........
 
Hello everybody!

This is my first post. I found this forum while trying to find an answer to my question.

My dad had one like that and it was not used for maybe 30 years. He gave it to me a few years ago saying it did not work but that it was a nice rifle and that I should have it repaired some day. This morning, just for kicks, I gave it a good cleaning and oiling. Then I went and fired a couple hundred rounds with it this afternoon and I really had fun. Can't remember having that much fun shooting a rifle for a very long time. I didn't know I had such a good little rifle in my basement.

The only thing is it misfired a few times. I messed with the aft screw cap or whatever it's called, and eventually it fired flawlessly. There is an indexer on that cap, and I think it has something to do with how hard the firing pin hits the rim, but I can't see why. I don't understand what it does exactly.

Can anybody please explain what that adjustment does?

Thanks
George
 
As far as I know that is some sort of variation of a breech plug.

I never thought it had any other purpose than an easy way to take down the rifle for cleaning
 
aft screw cap?

If you're talking about the threaded "cap" on the end of the receiver, removing this (by turning counter-clockwise) allows you to remove the spring and bolt. It would be a good idea to do this, spray the bolt and the inside of the receiver thoroughly with brake cleaner, then lightly oiling them and putting it back together.

Don
 
USSR found the words that I could not.

The failure to fires could have been ammo related
Were you using Remington bulk Pack?
 
Those are awesome, super reliable rifles that are absolutly awesome tackdrivers. I've got one, it rocks. I take it into the field more than any other .22 that I own.

I've never had a fail to fire in mine, you might check the firing pin, to see if its worn or chipped,

I've had a few jams while using .22 short ammo, the cases can get stuck if you don't lock the bolt closed when you are in battery.

Don't sell it, you'll regret it if you do. I'm keeping mine forever.
 
Thanks for the replies.

It had not been fired for 30 years. I cleaned it thoroughly when I got it out of storage. But some parts inside you cannot get at and you have to rely on soaking in varsol. I liberally sprayed G96 Complete Gun Treatment for good measure, then mopped up as much as I could and it left a thin film and a nice smooth movement. Didn't think about brake cleaner, but I will try it next time.

As for ammo, it was indeed a Remington bulk pack. I suspected those, and at that price I can accept a couple of jams.

Under the flange of the breech plug, there is a small spring loaded ball bearing that clicks in notches at the end of the barrel. I guess it is there simply to prevent the plug from getting unscrewed but at first it looked like an adjustment, although for the life of me I couldn't figure out what it could do.

Thanks again
George
 
I recently bought a rifle exactly like this at a local gun shop as my first rifle. I paid $80.00. It's exactly like the Marlin 80 I was looking for, so I grabbed it.

It seems to be in good condition, no rust anywhere. Also no serial number.

The woman at the gun shop said every shooter should own a gun without a SN. Don't know why she said that.

Good to find out I got an accurate, reliable rifle.
 
Mystery Rifle

I have a Stevens Model 87D 22 ,Stevens put out the 87D long before they were bought out by the Savage company and became Savage Stevens ,My rifle is marked stevens only,It is an awesome rifle,accurate way beyond any 22 I have ever had,I have the Ruger 10/22 stainless and ill take my old stevens hands down for reliability and accuracy anytime,I have shot this rifle for 40 years easily and it was handed down to me from my grandfather who bought it new when i was a little kid ,and I still remember the day he bought it ,and how prould he was of it then as it was a semiautomatic .Parts are drying up as savage stevens company was sold to someone who no longer supplys or does any work on any of the guns produced by stevens or savage stevens ,unless the guns were produced after they took over the company ,so for parts you have to buy used ones or if anyone is making aftermarket parts now,its a sad situation.I have shot complete bricks of ammo and more before cleaning this gun and had no jams or misfires useing winchester wildcat ammo (which is dirty fireing),All other ammo except remington has worked flawlessly ,for some reason the remington ammo I ever used jammed and I did not get consistant power out of the ammo ,it sounded like there powder load was not consistant resulting in crappy accuracy ,I have not bought any of the remington since,but i could shoot that gun untill it was filthy and it did not jam and accuracy was always top notch.the ranger gun I saw mentioned is not the same as the 87D but looks similar ,it looks more like a carbine model rather than a long barreled rifle like the 87D,there are also other models of the 87 made eariler than the d model in the early 50s,My gun was bought in the early 60s and i will never sell it,its way to fun to shoot and is very easy to clean ,the knob on the back of the reciever is how you break the gun down ,you unscrew that and the bolt,fireing pin come out,you have to remove the charging bolt out of the side of the bolt to remove the bolt completly ,then you can clean the barrel from top to bottom ,its a very simple gun to clean ,I have found the simpler the action is in a gun the more reliable and accurate they seem to be ,just my opnion ,I prefer the AK-47 and the sks to the M-16 or AR-15 as if your out in the woods or anywhere else you do not have to worrie about the little spring loaded small springs getting lost when they shoot out of the gun ,or the many other small parts you dont have to worrie about in the Sks or AK,I compare the ease of maintaining my 87D and relibility to them .Another advantage is cost for the 87D which was 47 bucks new when mine was bought ,the AK and SKs are also very ,very cheap to produce compared to the AR-15,thats why everyone in the world seems to have one,Smal
 
It's good to find some info on this gun. I've got a Stevens Model 87A. In semi-auto mode it nearly always jams on the last round. I am using .22LR (though I was using Remington bulk stuff, have moved on to other since then). In any event, I took it to a gun shop and they said that the spring loaded rod was not long enough? So they set me up with another rod ($45) and sent me on my way. But it still jams on the last round. I've taken it completely apart, cleaned it, reassembled it and used Remington Drilube on it. Still jams on the last round. Any thought/suggestions?
Thanks in advance...
 
The Stevens 87B, was my very first rifle that was a pawn shop buy
for $20, in 1956. I don't recall what the clip just forward of the magazine
tube is called, but it stops the round just prior to the shell lifter lifting the
cartridge into the chamber. Pops into a couple of slots that are the
bottom of the receiver. Easy to replace and usual clears feeding jams
when replaced. Unscrew the knurled cap at the end of the receiver,
bolt and firing pin slides back and out Pin is T shaped at the end and
just lays in a groove on top of the bolt. No tools needed to replace
the firing pin. Try Gun Parts for those you need. The above clip on
end of the mag tube is some kind of spring steel:D
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top